Three weeks and no results? I thought the solution had been given on day one, silly me.

 

I don't want to destroy my fobs! Been trying to comb that other thread and make sure I do it right. Would be great if you could get on the phone and explain it, but you never replied to that question!

 

I don't know if the above information is a two step process [ 1. Use the new lock assembly and a halo attached to the SKREEM.
You could put the new tumbler into the old ignition assembly.
2. Put the old chip and old board from the original fob into a fob using the key matching the new tumbler.] I don't know if I have to do one and two, or pick one. That's why I asked if you could call. Because you didn't clarify exactly what I have to do between the two methods. And I don't mean this disrespectful so don't take it like that. I just find it very easy to misunderstand posts on the Internet when compared to voice contact.

 

Screw it. I'm moving the metal from the replacement fob to my original fob when I wake up tomorrow. Just tried to program the original fob to the car (push twice, turn key) and my flashers came on each time I clicked. So im pretty sure switching the metal will work. Couldn't insert the key into the ignition, click twice, and then turn it, because the key doesn't match the ignition. I may be wrong but god this car makes me feel retarded. Sorry I'm a bit of a dumba$$ and am hard headed.

 

If switching the metal doesn't work then I will be transferring the original rfid to my replacement fob.

 

Got metal from replacement fob out because I literally pulled it apart with my hands. The original fob though, not so easy. Gotta make a trip to get those special pliers and then I will be back to work. Hopefully I get it on first try. If not I will remain a headache to you veteran guys

 

No headache, you are the guy that knows which metal part starts the car and you are the guy that knows which RF ID key FOB needs to be near the ignition antenna. Just make those two things one device from the instructions on the PDF and you're good to go.

 

Glad to see your getting this done.. "we" love to help out .. it's just it's been laid out like a road map by a few members and short of coming over and doing it for you...well.. LOL.


PS.. a phone call would have been no more than repeating what members have taken the time to type out.. there wasn't anything else that could have been said.

 

Well I sure do appreciate it guys. I don't have a lot of experience with these things but a few of you have helped me tremendously. Will keep you guys posted when I swap them

 

Oh my, you guys are gonna be mad at me! Just tried to program the original fob while the replacement fob was in the ignition. And what do you know? My hatch locks again!! ) guess I don't have to do any surgery on my fobs now! Sorry I wasted your time guys. But time is not wasted if I've learned something about the entire system. Seriously, thank you guys so much!! My speakers are safe now. And I can sleep comfortably again. Mrmiata, a special thanks to you for suggesting that in one of the posts on the other thread. You're awesome dude! And 180, you're awesome too but I always feel like I get on your nerves!

 

Well I just got into my car to find a clicking sound coming from behind the dash, and the original fob would no longer lock or unlock my doors. Wtf? Car started fine, as im sitting in a church parking lot down the road from my house writing this post. Doors and hatch locks work fine while I'm riding down the road. Now I get home and lock it with the same method after I reprogram it. Open the door and the clocking continues. The fog light indicator is blinking along with the tow button light on the button panel by the gear shift. Clicking won't go off until I crank car and shut the door. What the heck? Now I can't get them to unlock at all. Ugh

 

I got doors and hatch unlocked after I programmed the fob again (3rd time today, once on each start). I'm leaving it the way it is right now (the way it was when I started this thread) because: 1) I don't want my battery going dead while it's locked due to the flashing lights both inside and outside (side markers were flashing) and 2) I want to be able to have passengers. When the car was locked with the original fob, the doors were unable to unlock from the inside button. So now, im scratching my head trying to figure out wtf is going on. Bummer

 

He's only got 1 left.. so it doesn't take a lot to get it vibrating..


Just do what your comfortable with..

 

Any idea why all of those lights are blinking?

 

Do you still have to do this from your first post to start and drive the car?

"1) A few months ago, the original ignition went bad (not sure exactly what went bad with it) so it was replaced with a new one. My dad had problems with the security system and the codes that allow the car to be cranked, so I have to leave the old ignition hanging from the dash so it will be near the new one. "


If not what did you do to "fix" it?

 

I don't believe you can program the RFID chip but you can program a FOB to your remote unlock system. Two different functions. The RFID chip is a tiny blob in the corner of the FOB and is part of the security system and starting of the car. The board in the FOB with the buttons are what unlock the car remotely and get matched to the car via "programming."

Has this issue been resolved?....... "1) A few months ago, the original ignition went bad (not sure exactly what went bad with it) so it was replaced with a new one. My dad had problems with the security system and the codes that allow the car to be cranked, so I have to leave the old ignition hanging from the dash so it will be near the new one."

 

No it is still taped up in a jerry rig. The old ignition with the silver ring on it is taped to the original fob and hanging from the dash within a few inches of the used replacement ignition that came from a car in Indiana with the two keys I use to drive my car.

 

This procedure may have "un-programmed" your replacement FOB.

 

Do you want to fix that issue? My posts address that issue. Reprogramming FOBs while that is there may be confusing your car.

Just to confirm, if you remove this jerry rig from the car by at least 10 feet away you cannot start the car with either the replacement fob (key fits - wrong chip) or the original FOB (wont fit key - correct chip)?

 

Exactly right. It fell out one night and my car did the "start, no start" issue. Put it back in the jerry rig and it fired up fine. And all I am worried about is getting the doors and hatch to lock right until I get through boot camp and get my Air Force checks coming in. When that happens I will let a dealer rape me to get it back to normal where I don't need to Jerry rig it