I have an 04 coupe with some weird electrical problems I have had trouble figuring out. So before we begin, I will state the car's status right now.

1) A few months ago, the original ignition went bad (not sure exactly what went bad with it) so it was replaced with a new one. My dad had problems with the security system and the codes that allow the car to be cranked, so I have to leave the old ignition hanging from the dash so it will be near the new one.

2)Also, my hatch and gas door do not lock when I manually lock my car. I have been told this is not normal. I tried replacing batteries in the fob and resetting (click twice, turn to on) but that did nothing.

3)My dome lights also do not work, but all of the other electronics in the cabin do.

Can you senior guys help me? 180, Mrmiata, and a few others have tried to help but I would appreciate everybody giving me more knowledge of this car so I can learn these things. Thank you

 

Hatch and gas door perhaps the Central Locking module/pump in the trunk?

 

Check fuse F9 in the under hood accessory fuse panel.

 

There is a lot missing from the above description; the replaced ignition system for instance, where did it come from?
It's hard to figure the configuration from the description given, the father should say what he did, the second hand explanation makes no sense to me.

 

still trying to get in touch. Sorry for the wait.

 

(2) Was this in the fob taped to "old ignition" .. as it is the only one tied into the brains.. and as stated earlier with the hatch and gas locks.. that's going to be another issue outside of the fob.

 

Just got off the phone with him. He had to replace the ignition because the ignition switch tumbler broke. The (new) fob I start my car with, the ignition switch, and the antennae ring came off of a wrecked car from Indiana. The (old) key fob, ignition, and antennae ring that I have taped together hanging off the dash are the originals that came on the car. When he replaced the ignition, he wired the new antennae ring to the car but it would not work, so he had to leave the antennae ring on the old ignition wired up to the car in order for it to start. He told me I would have to get the new fob, ignition, and antennae ring programmed into the ecu for it to be functioning right again. As for the locks, he said that is a new problem because the hatch and gas door should lock when I manually lock it with the key. He suggested I could try and lock it with the fob that is taped up because it is the original, but it did not work when I tried. I am going to make sure he batteries are fresh and then try it again. Sorry for the confusion, but I have all the info now.

 

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...7-post132.html

 

I am sure that by selecting and assembling the correct parts that it can be repaired. I think I get what was done .......

Use the new lock assembly and a halo attached to the SKREEM.
You could put the new tumbler into the old ignition assembly.

Put the old chip and old board from the original fob into a fob using the key matching the new tumbler.

 

Unfortunately we don't have the old ignition so we can't do that transplant method

 

You have all the parts to make it work - put them together properly and use them.

 

Is there any way I could get you on the phone to explain this?

 

I guess that's a no

 

Okay I think putting the old chip and board into the new key would work, but I am hesitant to try because the old fob is the only reason my car will start right now and I don't want to screw it up. Advice?

 

Click here to fix


https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...7-post132.html

 

Wouldn't the new key, just the metal part, moved to the old FOB do the same? We are trying to get you to match the new ign. cylinder/key combo to the chip in the original FOB. The chip in the FOB mates with the ring antenna and coding in the car. Side note, it sounds like your door key and ignition key are different now, beware!

When it comes to the fuel door lock don't think remote unlock. From a diagnostic point of view if the FOB remotely unlocks the car the remote and receiver are fine go to the one item that is failed, the fuel door mechanism to investigate.

Dome light has a switch on it, set it to come on when the doors are opened.

 

I don't believe they will match because they're two different keys with different codes. Taking the metal from the new key and transplanting it may work, but im in Florida at the moment on vaca so I can't try that unfortunately. Definitely going to give it a shot though just don't want to ruin a good key fob.

 

Well I still haven't tried anything. Im waiting on more advice. Would love to get someone on the phone

 

The "old fob" has nothing to do with your car starting.. The RFID chip in the fob is the reason it starts. If you have looked into anything we have told you.. you know what the chip looks like and where it sits in the fob. You could tape just that chip vrs the whole fob and the car will start if your "worried" about messing it up. I don't know what other advice you could be looking for.


Have you even put batteries in "the old fob" and tried the sync. method to see if it will even work the door locks?

 

Your SKREEM module will only allow the car to start with the RFID chip made for your car. IE the factory programmed RFID in the FOB. Not the ignition, not the antenna.

The antenna ring is just that, an antenna to receive the signal from the RFID in the FOB. Swapping antennas from car to car is no issue. The SKREEM must be able to hear the RFID chip in the FOB so the antenna ring around the tumblers in your car must be connected to the SKREEM. Antenna wires just hanging there do nothing.

Swapping the ignition tumbler (the part the key goes into) from the crashed car to your car forces using the metal key portion from the matching tumbler from the crashed car's FOB. Soooo.....

You either swap the metal key portion from the "replacement" FOB into your existing FOB or you move your original RFID chip from inside the original FOB to the replacement FOB. Or in math terms where A=metal key and B=rfid chip you have AB or BA trying to start your car when you need an AA or BB to match it all up.

See mrmiata's post on how to take the FOB apart. If this were mine I would put the crashed cars metal key into my original FOB to match both the RFID and door lock programming of my car.

You would probably need both VINS to order a replacement key FOB then match key to FOB again.