YOU can fix this for free by putting your replacement FOB's key into your original FOB. Yes, you risk breaking things but if you are careful the fix is FREE!

See mrmiatas post for the PDF. Did I mention FREE?

I could drive from Michigan and fix this for you for half of what the dealer is going to charge you.

 

I am going to try that then. But if I do that, will the old ignition have to stay hanging?

 

EDIT: after seeing the picture you posted and not knowing which antenna ring is connected to the SKREEM for sure you have more work than just swapping the metal part FOB to FOB. The antenna ring will have to be put back around the ign tumblers. See the sticky ign key mod post for a PDF of how to take the dash apart.


You do understand your original FOB has a tiny chip RFID gizmo in it that deactivates the antitheft of the car so it starts, right?

And you do understand the replacement FOB has this same RFID device in it but it's for the other car, right?

We are just gunna play the shell game and find the parts that make this car start and run and put all of those components into one FOB.

Then when you have the jerry rigged stuff off the dash with the car starting and running proper then we will address the programming the remote to the car locking system.

 

Are you going to train to be an aircraft technician or what? Working on a Crossfires electronics and with the experience gained from this forum should put you at the top of the class.

 

Had to lol at the "10 feet"... when I did my first fob case replacement the RFID chip had slipped back about 1/4" and the car would not start.

 

That's my way of making 100% certain it's not sitting IN the car and confusing things, I knew it would be outta range of the chip.

 

Does anyone know if the antenna ring wire back to the SKREEM is long enough to connect to his jerry rigged on dash set-up?

If it is that will make repairs a little tougher.

 

Yes I am coming to understand all of the chips in the remote that communicate with the ignition, but im still not 100% sure on all of it. Trying to research the fob as much as possible. The old antennae ring is still wired up. My dad wired the new one when he replaced the ignition and the car was not able to start. And heck 180, I might as well go to NASA when I figure this out Should I buy an empty fob or use one of the two that came with the replacement ignition?

 

Just to be 100% clear the antenna ring around the ign switch in the dash has been disconnected from the SKREEM module and the antenna ring hanging out in the jerry rigged thing is now hooked to the SKREEM module?

Do you have a picture of this jerry rigged set-up?

 

This is the jerry rig my dad put together. As you can see the wire from the old ignition is still wired behind the replacement ignition. I am not sure where the wire runs to because I was not present for the switch between the two. Car was handed down. I'm assuming it is still wired to the skreem but I can not tell you for sure. I will call my dad and ask.

 

Don't do as I advised earlier......

 

I would strongly advise getting a "blank fob" from Ebay. I've had to destroy my OEM's to get to the electronics. Some have said it snapped open easily enough for them but hey it's only 10 bucks in insurance.. LOL. And even if you don't purchase first - cracking open the one taped in place and basically "destroying the case" still leaves you with the ability to tape the RFID chip to the ring and save the electronics board till you do get a replacement case in. Oh and I don't know that its been noted.. and should be fairly obvious.. but when the two fob components are combined to one.. you will need to attach the "ring" back into the ignition switch. I think I've read where people were able to follow that wire to the skreem module plug in.. if so and the current "in place" ring has its complete wire "hanginig" then plugging it's wire in place might prove easier than disassembly of the ignition to place the OEM ring back. (as it is obviously still plugged into the skreem).


Hope I didn't just add more confusion.. LOL.

 

Did this car have the sticking ignition? Meaning did your dad have the problem where they key would not turn?

 

Yes that is what happened.

 

This is an odd way to fix it. Did your dad follow the PDF posted on the forum? Did he damage the original ign tumblers?

 

The original tumbler broke so he put a new ignition in it. And I doubt he did use the manual. I asked where the wire ran to and he told me it went to a black box behind the dash.

 

So it looks like after you move the replacement FOB metal key to the original FOB you are going to have to take the dash apart to put the antenna ring back around the ign switch.

 

So going off of the post from tom2112 explaining key fobs...
"5) When you put your key into the ignition, the fob’s transponder responds to your car’s ignition and replies with a special code."
"6) Any fob’s transponder can NOT be reprogrammed to work with your car. "
"7) A transponder chip from YOUR car’s fob can be transplanted into another fob, and that fob will start your car, as long as you transplant your physical key along with it."
"8) The physical key will always turn your car’s ignition and door locks, but without the correct transponder, your car will not start."

I have to put the replacement transponder into a new fob because I have to match the physical key and the replacement ignition once I wire it back up under dash like you said? Or am I totally wrong again? because it says another transponder can not work with your car.

 

Simply put, the key cut must match the lock cylinder tumblers, the RFID chip in the fob must match the SKREEM module.
The RFID chip and the SKREEM communicate via the key ring antennae and associated RF cable to the SKREEM.

 

So my original RFID already matches with the skreem. The only thing I lack an understanding of is how will the replacement ignition's cable connect to my skreem? I know it will plug in because he plugged it in. But are there codes that go along with it?