I came home to what looks like an oil slick under the front of the car yesterday. It's actually shaped almost like a rectangle the size of the front half of the oil pan...This was the first day in my new garage so it's likely nothing new but rather I just noticed how bad it is. I've had a small leak that I figured was the valve cover for a while, but been busy until lately so I just down and took a few pics tonight. I plan on driving the car up on ramps tomorrow to get a closer look.

I checked the oil level with the key on, and it says 'OK'. I last changed the oil about five months/2k miles ago. For what it's worth, I backed the car into the garage today and placed cardboard under it, and it's completely dry five hours later.. Please check out the pics on google drive! Thank you.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwW...ew?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwW...ew?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwW...ew?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwW...ew?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwW...ew?usp=sharing

 

Transmission connector - old news. The o ring fails, i did a write up on it, easy fix. Woody

 

You show us pictures that look like the transmission pan to me,
the engine probably still has the plastic shield under it?
So Waldig is correct again, I would add pictures directly to the post instead of posting to a third party site, some people cannot be bothered to go to those sites.

Fix it like this.

 

Thank you gentlemen. I really appreciate the help. It's pouring rain so I haven't put the car up today, will look into the parts first!

 

I just had the oil and filter changed a few days ago. Yesterday the check oil light came on. Took it back to have it checked. Turns out there was a hairline crack in the aluminum oil pan running vertically down from the middle bolt. It had been noted as a small lead around the bolt. The tiny bit of oil completely concealed the crack. The pan had not be whacked or damaged in any way. Now they're trying to find a replacement. Having the valve cover gaskets replaced at the same time. Costly, but essential to protect my baby. Sigh.

 

Are you certain it was there before? Any chance they smacked it putting it on the lift or something?

 

pardon me if I seem skeptical, anyway the pan will be certainly cheaper from Mercedes then it will be from Chrysler.

 

I actually had to go take a look at it to believe it. Sure enough. I'll have them check MB for the part as well. Sigh.

 

Just for my own curiosity how many times have you had the oil changed in that car and how many times has the check oil level light came on? How long have you owned the car how many miles are on it? Have you had any other oil related problems with your car ? Are they going to pay for the oil pan and labor?

 

Junkyard, or parts car, if they will separate from a working engine.

 

Thanks. just found one. I guess this is my baptism of fire. I sure appreciate all of the input from folks on here. Also, glad I didn't yet sell my mint 1998 Caravan Sport that served me for years hauling an ailing spouse to and from the doctor. I may just keep it. On it I couldn't get the haze off the headlight, so I bought a replacement set for $150. Looking at replacements for my Crossfire had me sit down real quickly. Got these haze free this time with cost being a big incentive.

Bill

 

I was able to fix this in one night with the info I found on this board. Thank you guys, especially Waldig. You're part of a great community.

 

Information is what its all about, glad you are on the mend, Enjoy Wdy

 

I have for sale an upper and lower oil pan and oil level sender. I will be out of reach until Tuesday 14 Feb.

 

Is this new?

 

From a 40,000 mile Engine I lost because I did not yet have a pully scatter shield bt Late Model 21. Phone 210 648 5779.

 

Dont waste your money, you can restore them easily. I got some wet sand paper and Mequiar's PLastX and in about 1/2 hour, mine looked new again. Yea, I missed the lower right, went back and did that - but it was too dark to get a picture!

 

Again, waste of money. The vavle cover gaskets are probably not hte issue, it's the seal in the RTV between the breather and valve covers that leaks. While it is nto a bad idea to change the gaskets as well, the real issue is the RTV-type crap they use between breathers and covers.

I am no mechanic, but I did mine myself - have not put them back on cause it is COLD here in North Georgia and my car sits in an unheated stall!

Here is the re-sealed breather-to-valve-cover assembly, again, have not put it back on the car:



I am no mechanic, and can tell you that this was not a hard job at all.

 

Summary: Don't pass up a chance to do it yourself - working on the car (when it does not cost $100 an hour for someone ELSE to do it) can be great therapy! Sure beats going to the office, I can tell you THAT!

Stick around here, friends, we will save you enough money to finance your next vacation!

 

Had my leaks repaired last week by a small shop in new Baltimore Mi that Rob from needs wings referred me to. They work on Mercedes and BMW's it was just the seals around the breathers atop the valve covers. Scraped all the old Sealant off and did a real nice re-seal job. Less than 250. Could have saved money has Mark did, but trust me, when I finish with they will leak worse than when I started. So for me, money well spent!!