Glad to hear your up and running. Just curious where is the fuse #9 located.

 

I am not sure, the Mercedes mechanic took it out and successfully started car. Runs great now. The horn and tire pressure control work still, even though they are listed for fuse 9. Map light and tail gate lights do not. Use key to unlock instead of fob.

 

You never posted what your problems were, you simply stated you had solved the problem.
I doubt you have solved a SKREEM problem, you may have just bypassed a problem in some circuit.

 

Took to a Chrysler mechanic and a Mercedes mechanic, both confirmed it was the skreem.
Started with fob not working, then when car is opened with key, security system kicks in and locks down the engine. Fob and all electrical checked out, diagnostic confirmed skreem. Cost to fix skreem and PCM is $4300, or part out the car. Someone else shared about this fuse #9 bypass. Mercedes mechanic didn’t believe it at first, but it worked! Must disconnect from battery first, remove fuse#9, reconnect battery and start car. Mechanic said it needed to cycle a few times (not sure what that meant).

 

Exactly.

 

Yea, right.

Sure.

I'm just glad you didn't fall for the $4000 repair - anyone who tells you it costs $4000 due to a bad SKREEM is not telling you the truth. PERIOD.

 

just curious what would it cost

 

Curious. What was the final outcome of all of this? What are the symptoms of Skreem failure versus Central Locking Pump failure or Security System Module failure?

About three months ago my 2005 intermittently would alarm and flash as if someone had been tampering with it. So, I thought someone might have been. Then, I was driving along and it randomly started alarming and flashing as if I had stolen it. I pulled over and was able to calm it down by using the fob. Last week, I went mall shopping and when I came out, no alarm BUT noticed the parking lights were on steadily and I could not unlock the car with the fob. I manually opened with the key and the alarm went off with that scratchy sound like it was struggling for air. I tried to start the car but by now it was in deep anti-theft mode. The alarm stopped temporarily. I could not unlock the truck from the inside lock release button on the console. The car would not turn over.

Eventually, I disconnected the battery just to keep the alarm quiet and to see if I could "reboot" the anti-theft system. I reconnected the battery and was able to start the car, unlock the truck (got my valuables out) drove and dropped it off to my Benz mechanic on Saturday. He was there so I made sure to disconnect the battery so the alarm would not drive anyone crazy over the weekend. My mechanic showed up later to move the Crossfire into his shop. He reconnected the battery, moved it, but the alarm still went on. Just now, the mechanic is saying that first he has to replace the alarm horn before he can diagnose why the car didn't start (that is, why it went into anti-theft mode). Quoted $364 for parts and labor.

I'm thinking the Fuse #9 solution might be worth a try first. I'm not convinced he really knows what's wrong. Any suggestions for others that have been through this???

 

First, if your mechanic removed the POS cable before the NEG cable, the alarm will sound until reset. Second, $364 for a new siren is reasonable given the part is costly (depending where you get it AND that it is NEW), plus what is involved in labor to remove all that has to be removed/installed to replace that siren. After that, I bow out because there is no way to tell what is triggering the lights/siren/and such. Before you do anything else, look for signs of water in the lower rear hatch bay after you remove the trim and Styrofoam and unwrap the air pump module that opens/locks doors/hatch/and flashes lights. Water in there screws many things and gives ppl headaches which is a gold mine for service departments/mechanics. Good luck!


.

 

And please share the outcome for other members thay may share your problem. My guess on the siren is bad batteries and internal corrosion.

 

Well, my mechanic knows Benz parts and found a new one. Says it is all working like it should. So, I'm heading over to pick up my Crossfire. Will ask about "look for signs of water in the lower rear hatch bay after you remove the trim and Styrofoam and unwrap the air pump module that opens/locks doors/hatch/and flashes lights. Water in there screws many things and gives ppl headaches".

Will update.
Thanks

 

You do not have to strip the trunk looking for water, just fold up a piece of newspaper so it is strong enough to push down the front edge of the foam block in the well. It will be obvious if there is water in the well. The front edge is the deepest part of the well.
I think the price is a bit too much a siren that beeps is $150 or so, with at most an hour to pull the cowl and replace it, so I would say it is about $80 too much at least
Remember you want a beeping siren and not the half-price silent one.

 

I keep seeing this 'paper test' reference BUT... IF there WAS water in there (from any source) and it DAMAGED the pump then the 'paper test' will ONLY tell you if there is water in there NOW. The lower part of this 'bay' is sealed (unless you did like I did and punched holes in those two rubber plugs). Any water that WAS in there could have wet the module, dried out, and slowly degraded the module. There is also another module (cannot remember what it is though) that could have also been wet at some time. Hence, removing all the trim mentioned above (or below according to the order you read the posts), to verify the modules are CLEAN of damage, and DRY. Doing only the 'paper' test removes a potential source of a recurring intermittent electrical/electronic problem source from those two modules. To each his/her own, just be informed the 'paper test' might not be enough.

I guess not knowing where this MB mechanic is, how he/she prices their parts (retail vs wholesale) and how much that shop needs $ (unless you want to do it self help), my assessment with that price is reasonable. Now, doing it yourself will involve researching the needed part (pretty easy unless you don't want to) and then saving all the labor including a shops overhead, will just cost someone the price of the part and some time. Again, to each his/her own!


.

 

If you think stripping and then replacing the items back into the trunk is fun then go ahead. I never tell someone to commit a major operation or buy expensive parts that may or may not be required.

 

Dave, NO, I don't think it is fun. The parts required are those little white MB trim clips that have been sourced very inexpensively from 'fleabay'. Labor is the only other cost (unless stuff is broken when ppl rush or hurry before seeing what has to happen to get trim off). After verification of no damage/damage those plugs can be opened up to let future potential water intrusions drain. It also isn't fun to not be sure and chase problems that might be sourced in that set of modules. I did it long ago, realized the problem with not being 'drainable', and done a SIMPLE thing by opening up the plugs JUST IN CASE. If and when someone has a problem with these two modules due to water damage, doing the 'paper test', and finding out the damage was in either or both modules, I hope they come in here and tell everyone their story AND how much time and monies they expended trying to fix it in the wrong places. So members, if you choose to only dip a slip of paper into your lower bay then you go right ahead and do that. You (Dave) and I both replied to a member who has a problem, your solution MIGHT be enough for his/her problem. My option might be required. It is after all, options that are given here, right?


.

 

Beware of inexpensive trim clips on 'fleabay' as stated above purchase only the Mercedes part/clip. Those really cheap clips from China will snap the head off when in use. I used some on the rear hatch area and three weeks later I was removing that panel again and replacing all clips with new OEM clips bought on 'fleabay', so yes less expensive than purchasing directly from dealer, but not the cheapest ones available either. These panels are tough to get off and re-install without snapping something; as they age they get brittle, just like me

 

Update; Replaced the alarm horn with the "beeping one" and all issues presently resolved. No water (thank goodness).
Thanks everyone and especially onehundred80.

 

I have a 2005 CF SRT-6 conv. with the classic symptoms mentioned for a bad SKREEM module. I tried to get it home by removing the #9 fuse and it did not start. Had to get it towed.
I'm in PHX. AZ...if anyone locally has that problem, feel free to contact me.

Ruben
67th Ave and Happy Valley Rd.

 

Look at the locked thread on the SKREEM solution that works or contact MDP. They will lfix it for you or not charge you. They are as close as your nearest post office. THEY ARE THE SOLUTION. You need to contact them and they will tell you what you need to send them = parts and documents.

 

I am new to this forum. My son bought a 2004 crossfire 3.2L manual almost 2 years ago with 70K mile.

Car is great no issue we both love, it is in perfect working condition inside and out.

Last March (2019) we had the typical crank sensor issue, when hot the car will crank but not start, if we waited a little and had the car cool down it will re-start. I replaced the crack sensor (not sure if it was a bosh) and the problem was solved. Last September the car all of a sudden will not start. Took to a local(closest) mechanic and 200$ later he said it should be the PCM. We took the car to the local Chrysler (what a mistake) and for just 500$ :-( they replaced the clutch safety switch and then told us that also the PCM/SKREEM/KEYS need to be replaced. He said this is our policy yet replacing the pcm should suffice if you do yourself.

After searching on line I found this is ecu company, they have multiple website

http://www.ecuwarehouse.com

Crossfire ECU Control Units And Crossfire ECM Repair
(please note, I now dis-trust this company, i discourage sending money to them)
they said they can replace my not working pcm with a remanufactured one and will be able to fix it even if the memory info may not be availble, they mention they have all sofware. It costs me $750+$90

When the pcm was back i installed in the car and now the car most time starts, never the first try, often the 3rd or 4th time and not rarelly
it does not start at all, means it stop cranking, dashboard light are on just does not crank.
When this happens the only way to restart the car is disconnecting the negative for a couple of minutes.
I have contacted this ecu company multiple time and they do not pick up the phone, always voice mail and no call back. sent them emails no reply.
Do yourself a favor do NOT send them your money.

At this point i found this excellent forum and i have spend many hours reading.

I have verified (reading the forum) that the RCM (relay control Module) is working, infact two of the relays switch on and a third one flip on for a second or two then off.
I have also checked the soldering and they looks good. I have re-soldered the 3 on the corner just in case. The problem persist.

I have ordered on amazon a new RCM and replaced anyway. This has not solved the issue.

The battery is 9 months old and fully recharged before the PCM was installed.
I have checked the battery cable, no rust they are in good condition
Remote battery has been replaced.
I have observed that once the car starts, if I make it run for a few minutes, and then turn it off I can now turn it on and off as many times as I want, car starts promptly as expected. I have tryied 4,5 times in a row and it behaves as you would expect. When the car is cold then the issue mentioned above is back

This is confusing me. From one side it seems like this is not a SKREEM issue since the car starts and does not stop cranking after 2 or 3 times, (most times).

Yet from the other side, every time i start the car it is like the cranck get disconnected afted a very short time, one second or less, it is not that i can make it crank for 2 or 3 seconds. And if the car does not start after trying 2/3/4/5 times or so, at some point it stop cranking and only disconnecting the negative helps (this seems in line with a SKREEM issue)
It could be that the SKREEM is dying yet it sometimes still works.
The consistent fact is thal all the time the engine (PCM) is sending a signal to stop the crank from keep going even when the car may still need a little longer crank time. either the SKREEM is saying stop it or the car think that cranking speed is enough to start and it is protecting the gears.


I have read about MDP company and I will not mind sending them SKREEM/PCM and Keys, yet it is not fully clear to me if this is a SKREEM issue
or something else is at play.

Any suggestion will be appretiate.


Thanks.
Salvo