Hope someone could recommend some suggestions. I have a 2004 automatic black coupe with 49K miles. Car died on me, came out and would not start no crank (nothing). Have changed the camshaft, CPS, and have had the RCM fixed too (resolder joints, replaced relays). However still NO START (no crank, however all lights are on dash, radio and key fob work. Also experiencing no problems with fan or showing any codes. Car is stuck in a low parking garage. Could it be the starter? . Any assistance you can provide would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you,
Diane

 

Could be the pulse module ( it runs the starter, it is located in the under hood fuse box closest to the outside )

 

Thank you, I'll check the pulse module.

 

Have you checked the Battery. I just left the battery in my car this winter. Still had dash and lights working, clock time still correct.Had to charge battery to start car.

 

I have this problem right now, almost 100 percent of the time it starts (daily driver). And some times as in like almost every other day, I will be driving on the highway and the car will just die, all lights dash lights come on and engine turns off. I have to pull over and wait about 30 minutes then magically it starts. Blows my mind. Is it the ignition switch? Also I have another issue I'm thinking maybe a vacuum leak some where but I'm unsure. I replaced the throttle body and the gasket, and replaced the mass airflow sensor. And some times when I'm driving, this was before the ignition problem.... the car would just loose all throttle, engine would still be on but running very rough idling up and down between 1 and 1.5 rpm. I shut the car off after I pull over and turn it right back on and it works fine. But I keep getting a mass air flow code on the scanner. Vacuum leak? Help!

 

for the possible vacuum leak, do you know anyone that has a smoke machine ?

 

 

Amx137 do you have a wed site for that so I can price it, I may have to try this. I was also gonna try saudering those 3 terminals that everyone is talking about. The guy who had it before me hooked a smoker up to it and he said it only came out at the bottom of what looks to be a relief valve right above the idler pully. I have yet to smoke it again since I replaced everything. I just dont want to have to poor a bunch more money into it so hopefully nothing is to expensive. Thanks for the help I need it!

 

Rockauto has the RCM for $122 under chrysler/crossfire/2005/3.2L v6/electrical-switch and relay/computer control relay

 

RCM replacement fixed mine with the exact same symptoms.

 

Is there a way to test and see if that is the problem, or are these cars just a guessing game?

 

Update: 4/2019I decided to sell the car as is for $2000 (sold), after replacing the CPS, camshaft and RCM still couldn't get it to start. However I still have my 2007 SSB roadster and appreciate all the community members help.

 

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...-no-start.html

post #2 has his address send it today get it back by monday

read this one too https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...77260-rcm.html

 

Amx1397, thank you so much! I will deffinatly give this a try before I just buy a new one! Do you think that will also make it throw the mass air flow code as well? Or should I still check to make sure there isn't a vacuum leak? Thank you again!

 

read all these.please
.
do the rcm first it is the blood or this engine

car.https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...gs-happen.html

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...m-problem.html

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...sh-lights.html
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...acing-rcm.html

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...er-failed.html

 

I soughterd the terminals wasn't pretty but I think it worked, they deffinatly looked like the ones it the first link. It started right up and it didnt take an extra second to start lik it did before while it was sitting all day while I was at work I took advantage of the engine being cold and with carb cleaner checked for any vacuum leaks. Didnt hear any idle chance when I sprayed all the lines and the throttle body so that's a good thing. So I turned it off turned it back on did great. Reved it up a few times shut it off. Started it turned the wheel turned on ac, anything to try and make the engine bog and it didnt, turned it on and off about 10 times and did good so I hope it really worked! Thank yall for your help!!!

 

Car did great this morning driving 50 minutes to work, no throttle problems no check engine light, the only thing is about 5 minutes down the road the Bsp/eps light came on on the right side on the dash. Any clue on what to do with that? And when I hot my first stop light about 40 minutes into the drive, once I was at a stop the head lights dimmed for a quick second and the motor boged just for a second. But other than that I did notice a huge diffrence on how the car acted. Any ideas on those instrument lights?

 

I still say get a spare rcm put it in and u will c that your old one has a slight problem like maybe a buirnt relay points you have proven the rcm is the problem get your new one send yours to tighn1 then check it when returned and keep in car for a spare. jim

 

So back to the drawing board, as soon as I crank it to leave work, it did that extra long crank and check engine light came on. Back to a rough idle and extended shifting in lower gears. Was watching the rpms and the gage was kinda jumpy. I'm at a loss at this point.

 

I still think your RCM relays are probably bad. $50.00 to have tightend replace them or $150.00 for a new one. Why keep messing with the aggravation?