I hacked the Skreem, the Skreemulator
To Vipper-666
This is a very good quality circuit board. You can see the attention to detail. Am I correct in assuming that the tinned copper wire between the 2 pin connector and the pin of (U1) will be included within the Printed Circuit Board design or will it be left as a flying lead?
Very good work, I applaud you.
This is a very good quality circuit board. You can see the attention to detail. Am I correct in assuming that the tinned copper wire between the 2 pin connector and the pin of (U1) will be included within the Printed Circuit Board design or will it be left as a flying lead?
Very good work, I applaud you.
To Vipper-666
This is a very good quality circuit board. You can see the attention to detail. Am I correct in assuming that the tinned copper wire between the 2 pin connector and the pin of (U1) will be included within the Printed Circuit Board design or will it be left as a flying lead?
Very good work, I applaud you.
This is a very good quality circuit board. You can see the attention to detail. Am I correct in assuming that the tinned copper wire between the 2 pin connector and the pin of (U1) will be included within the Printed Circuit Board design or will it be left as a flying lead?
Very good work, I applaud you.
of course this wire will include into the board design für the production boards. There are a few additional changes I have made in the board design for the production boards
Hello,
the next update from my project. The final Skreemulator version is now installed in my Crossfire and has already mastered over 90 starts of the engine without problems.
This version has a stronger processor, so that a bigger display can be used and also graphics can be displayed.
I also thought about where the display should be most useful and developed a housing to fix it in the middle of the speedometer.
There is a small disadvantage, the trip meter can (at least I with my size) no longer read normally. I have to bend down for it.
Here is a video where you can see the display in action:
the next update from my project. The final Skreemulator version is now installed in my Crossfire and has already mastered over 90 starts of the engine without problems.
This version has a stronger processor, so that a bigger display can be used and also graphics can be displayed.
I also thought about where the display should be most useful and developed a housing to fix it in the middle of the speedometer.
There is a small disadvantage, the trip meter can (at least I with my size) no longer read normally. I have to bend down for it.
Here is a video where you can see the display in action:
No, the Skreemulator works with all kind of RKE or Keyless Go Systems who is able to switch to ground for open/close also a push button will work. You can also disable the immobilizer function by a dip switch on the Skreemulator so that it always send a code to the ECU if it asks without a additional switch/RKE or so.
I haven't mention my keyless go system because the installation of it is not so easy, to do that you need a lot of experience in wiring electrical systems and read wiring diagrams. But for them they are interested, it's a EasyGuard PKE ec002-v-ns.
I haven't mention my keyless go system because the installation of it is not so easy, to do that you need a lot of experience in wiring electrical systems and read wiring diagrams. But for them they are interested, it's a EasyGuard PKE ec002-v-ns.
No, the Skreemulator works with all kind of RKE or Keyless Go Systems who is able to switch to ground for open/close also a push button will work. You can also disable the immobilizer function by a dip switch on the Skreemulator so that it always send a code to the ECU if it asks without a additional switch/RKE or so.
I haven't mention my keyless go system because the installation of it is not so easy, to do that you need a lot of experience in wiring electrical systems and read wiring diagrams. But for them they are interested, it's a EasyGuard PKE ec002-v-ns.
I haven't mention my keyless go system because the installation of it is not so easy, to do that you need a lot of experience in wiring electrical systems and read wiring diagrams. But for them they are interested, it's a EasyGuard PKE ec002-v-ns.
It is not clear who you are asking, use the "quote" button to capture their post so they know which poster in the thread you are talking to.
Also, if you had a SKREEM "delete" done, why would you care? The 'delete' is just as much a fix as either solution in this thread. In fact, the "SKREEM delelete" is not a deletion anyway.
The "delete" is a form of each of the above fixes, where an additional processor-on-a-board answers for the SKREEM so the ECU will start the car. If you REALLY deleted the SKREEM, your remote lock-unlock would not work.
Also, if you had a SKREEM "delete" done, why would you care? The 'delete' is just as much a fix as either solution in this thread. In fact, the "SKREEM delelete" is not a deletion anyway.
The "delete" is a form of each of the above fixes, where an additional processor-on-a-board answers for the SKREEM so the ECU will start the car. If you REALLY deleted the SKREEM, your remote lock-unlock would not work.
From what I have read, you can still connect one of the wires to the skreem so your keyless entry will work. I don't remember which one.
And the Skreemulator can also bring you a keyless open back, so if the keyless open don't work with your Skreem it's an option. But as sayed above don't connect the CAN-Bus.
You have to connect the Skreem back but do NOT connect the white 2 pole connector (CAN-Bus) to the Skreem because then the Skreem delete will not work.
And the Skreemulator can also bring you a keyless open back, so if the keyless open don't work with your Skreem it's an option. But as sayed above don't connect the CAN-Bus.
And the Skreemulator can also bring you a keyless open back, so if the keyless open don't work with your Skreem it's an option. But as sayed above don't connect the CAN-Bus.
EDIT: Does the "RKE Status Output" at C1-3 perform this function?
Last edited by pizzaguy; Jan 5, 2023 at 11:40 AM.
The SKREEM is ALSO your keyless entry receiver. People think the SKREEM is just 'the thing that messes up and the car won't start". But it is more, it is also the keyless entry receiver.
But I am surprised about not connecting to the CAN BUS, if you don't connect to the CAN BUS, how does the SKREEM tell the CLP/SSM to unlock the doors???
But I am surprised about not connecting to the CAN BUS, if you don't connect to the CAN BUS, how does the SKREEM tell the CLP/SSM to unlock the doors???
My new (to me) Crossfire Coupe acts as if the SKREEM has somehow either been remover or disabled, is there a way to tell ? Starts instanly and runs great however remote transmits but is not received and physical key locks/unlocks only door and not other locks. Console switch locks and unlocks. No related DTCs. Second key works but does not seem to have chip. Something has been done but what ? Any ideas ?
Last edited by Padgett; Jan 23, 2023 at 02:58 PM.
If the second keyfob can unlock the car over rf and the Crossfire runs with the first keyfob the Skreem has to be intact. On your first key is:
1. the batterie emty
2. the syncronisation with the skreem has lost (also when the batterie is emty and a new would be insert) to syncronize it in the Crossfire, close the door, press 5 times open or close on the keyfob, insert the keyfob within 2 seconds into the ignition switch and turn to the second position (lights in the dash goes on). If the turning signal in the dash blinks your remote is synchronized again.
3. the rf part is broken
and I think your second key has no transponder.
If in your first key the rf part is defective maybe the Skreemulator is something for you because you don't need to repair 2 keyfobs or buy 2 new. With the Skreemulator you don't need a Chrysler/Mercedes keyfob any more, only a mechanic key (without transponder) for the ignition switch. So both of your existing keys will work with it.
1. the batterie emty
2. the syncronisation with the skreem has lost (also when the batterie is emty and a new would be insert) to syncronize it in the Crossfire, close the door, press 5 times open or close on the keyfob, insert the keyfob within 2 seconds into the ignition switch and turn to the second position (lights in the dash goes on). If the turning signal in the dash blinks your remote is synchronized again.
3. the rf part is broken
and I think your second key has no transponder.
If in your first key the rf part is defective maybe the Skreemulator is something for you because you don't need to repair 2 keyfobs or buy 2 new. With the Skreemulator you don't need a Chrysler/Mercedes keyfob any more, only a mechanic key (without transponder) for the ignition switch. So both of your existing keys will work with it.
Last edited by Viper-666; Jan 23, 2023 at 01:35 PM.


