Hi everyone. I bought a used crossfire recently that was not running and I have been using this forum to get the thing troubleshooted. First let me say that this forum is amazing and I wish there was something like it for all cars. So thanks in advance for your help.

This will be a long post so I'm sorry but I thought I'd give as much info as possible as to what I've done and what I know(think I know) about it.
So what I have now is a No start, no crank issue but a little different than any of the other threads on here as far as i can tell.
The guy I purchased it from(non running) said that the water drain tubes in the windshield/wiper drains had clogged up and so water had been overflowing into the ductwork and apparently into the Pcm box(or at least caused corrosion issues).
That guy purchased a new RCM, BCM, TCM, and a few other things but did know that they needed to be programed and sold it to me cheap.
I ordered a DBR III emulator and got it working and with that I was able to do most of the programming except re initializing the pcm. Thanks to CL770 and his ECU repair post, I purchased a chip programmer like his and learned how to virginize a used PCM. Pretty easy since apparently all you actually have to do is change the first byte to FF and it then recognizes the computer as new. So the DRB III accepted that PCM as new and programmed the correct vin into it(previously a different salvage vin). I then used the DBR III to do an auto replacement of the Skreem module(actually the original for the car so I believe all it did was tell the PCM the correct code and such) and it said it worked fine. Replaced the BCM because it was definitely fried inside(spoiler wouldnt work and other bcm related issues).
Still no start but the fuel pump was running when i turned the key so I then checked the pulse module and replaced it. Started up... good deal.
Several days later after I had received some other parts it needed(including a new MAF sensor), I go out to start it and... nothing. Same issue, no crank.
So this time I have less direction to go on since before it told me that there was a vin mismatch and such so basicially I try whatever else that could be related... New CPS, new Cam sensor, new SLA assembly(it was giving an internal fault code). Still no crank.
I tried to re-virginize the PCM but this time it wouldn't go through. It would recognized it as a new module but right at the end it would say, module already initialized. I ordered another salvage one on ebay, tried the same thing and it also didnt work right at the end. So I started thinking it must be a problem with how I was messing with the eprom. Didnt make sense since it worked the first time but I didnt know what else to think.
I go ahead and order a whole key, skreem, pcm set on ebay... it works, car starts, all is ok back to fixing the other problems. Its still giving a mass air flow circuit high code and a throttle actuator stuck open code that was causing it cut out if you gave it gas very quick. Order a new electronic throttle control and get it in and put it on and go to start the car... guess what, no crank!
Same issue. So now for what I think i know, and other things I noticed and then hopefully you guys will have some advice
With the DRB III and looking at the sensor data from the pcm. Everything seems normal except it says the ignition angle is 54 deg btdc and the cam sensor signal is unplausible it says. This let me to replacing the cam sensor originally but it was showing the same thing before I ordered the new pcm/key set and it worked fine with that.
Right as it was running last, the throttle quit responding mostly. if you gave it gas, the rpms went up slowly but with a several second delay and still a slow rise. Shut it off and it was normal for a minute until i gave it a couple quick presses and then it did it again. So I ordered a new throttle control since it said the actuator was sticking. Made sense but didnt start after I installed it.
The Mass Airflow code is where I assume the issue is currently. My theory is that since it said the circuit was high, it was frying my pcms slowly from some short or similar. I checked the wiring with the multimeter and it seems to be ok. 5 wire plug. ground seems ok(at least the voltmeter reads using that ground). one wire is at 4.9volts for the 5v reference. one is battery voltage from the rcm i believe. the other two are the maf sensor wire and iat signal. something like 3v on those. 0v on the maf when unplugged but 5v? i think on the iat when unplugged and 3.8 or so when plugged. I don't know how the iat works exactly if it resists the voltage down or what. I do know the temp from the computer was showing about 10 deg higher than it was outside. I included a wiring diagram but doesnt tell me what the signals should be. Maybe you guys can help.
I also noticed a high pitch buzz from the throttle control both on the old one and from the new one when the key is on. I checked the wires on that and I think they normal but again without knowing what the numbers should be i cant say for sure. a couple wires at 3.something volts but nothing jumped out at me. It was acting like the motor was trying to keep the throttle closed and was buzzing from it. maybe that part is normal.
Right before I turned it off last it was running, it said oil level was high, or at least it showed an oil can and said hi on the odometer display. not sure if it was actually or not.
I also had a MAP code show up briefly but doesnt show as a current code right now.
All those things seem to share a ground through the pcm if I am reading it right. cam, maf, oil lvl, map. So my current theory is that something is damaging my pcms but only a certain part like a driver or some such and not giving any codes specifically. It seems that the pcm is just not sending a start signal out. But I am at a loss exactly how to find the issue. As I am typing this, I wonder if i need to check the ground wire better. I checked that it was working as a ground, but not if there was voltage running through it? How would I check that best to see if it were putting too much through to the pcm? I didnt get any voltage on it probing directly(battery ground with com and sensor ground with positive lead but maybe thats not the right way to do that. Or any other ideas of what to look at?
I think i will need to get yet another pcm but I need to get the issue narrowed down before I just fry another.
Feel free to go down other troubleshooting paths since I might be biased towards my theory. Although I believe it isnt the following issues - RCM issue(pcm is getting juice from the relays), not crank sensor or cam sensor issue, not pulse or starter, fuel pump kicks on when i turn key on but doesn't run when trying to crank. Doesnt seem to be skreem related as the skreem doesnt give any codes and fob opens doors. sensor data seems to say the key is authorized. The siren's battery is dead and doesnt function but it doesnt appear to be setting security system off for any reason(no blinkers flashing at least).
One more thing... In between the last time it ran and trying to start it again, I changed out the key fob. I had purchased a new fob shell awhile back and took the blade and chip out and put it in new shell. However, I did this right about the time it quit working the first time. Now I did it again(since key/pcm kit came with its own fob but it was old and beat up) and it also wont start. the fob unlocks the doors though still so again, I'm not leaning towards key issue but it is weird. I haven't read any posts on here mentioning a key quit working after a shell change other than having to redo the remote lock\unlock part with the key in the ignition.

 

Here are some pictures of the sensor data from the pcm and skreem module.
Again, the things that stand out to me are the ignition angle which was -3 degs or so when it was running and the temp sensors for the airflow sensor being too high(was about 30degs outside at the time). Also it shows the cat temp at 300deg and since its been sitting that cant be right if thats what its saying. Let me know if you guys spot anything else that might help.
Using the drb3, I am unable to actually find anywhere where it says if the rolling key codes match from the skreem and pcm. It shows the transmittor for the remote lock/unlock but thats all I see.
Also in the pcm sensor data there is a value called S/C state. Does anyone know what that is referring to?

 

Ok. SOLVED. The issue turned out to be the key fob. I had ordered a new shell on ebay and I moved over the chip inside but turns out(i suppose alot of you knew this already but just in case) that the raised Chrysler emblem on the back of the fob is actually the part that the antenna ring is activating. I didnt take that off and put it on the new one. I assumed that was just cosmetic. So switched back to the old fob and it starts again. Thanks again to CL770 for his help.

So it appears the 54deg ignition angle is what will show with a drb3 if you don't have an authorized key in or your antenna ring is bad but will not show codes. Maybe that helps somebody if they find this thread.
I would edit the post to show solved, but I cant seem to figure out how to do that.

 

That emblem has NOTHING to do with the RFID. I even have a different emblem on mine.
What DOES is the little chip in the fob like this picture :


Or this one :

 

NEVER argue with someone who makes three posts in a row, George.

 

Hey thanks for the correction ala_xfire. I had not noticed that piece in there at all. Sorry for the misinformation but hopefully somebody might find something useful in there somewhere.

I didnt think he was arguing with me pizzaguy. Thanks for the warm welcome but I won't hold it against you since you seem to be equally insulting to most people from what I noticed . But thanks for chiming in.... after the problem is resolved! zing lol.
Anyway thanks guys.

 

You think Mark (pizzaguy) is insulting, you must not have run across onehundred80 yet

 

Lol, I have definitely seen him on here but if I remember right, he just gets upset when dealers are mentioned? or maybe that was mostly pizzaguy also idk. can't blame anyone for that though i say.

 

We shouldn’t confuse insulting with lack of patience for dumb.

Visit this forum on a regular basis and you’ll understand

 

Hey, I was impressed with all that you've already done to get your Crossfire going. Buying a Crossfire that isn't running can take guts. Posting a 1,500 word post takes guts, too!
I'm interested in getting a DRB III emulator. I might have questions for you....

 

Sure thing. I used a micropod II clone from here MicroPod 2 wiTech 17.04.27 for Chrysler Diagnostics and Programming for under $150. And then the drb3 emulator is available to download free on that same site or one of the other sites like it. Then you need a laptop running at most windows 7(don't think it works on win10 but not sure 100%). Getting it installed and working is a bit technical but the instructions are pretty step by step. I wouldn't mind helping anyone out getting it configured. Just send me a pm.
I would think its probably worth it for anyone with a Crossfire. I think the drb3 may be the only option for the 2004 crossfires but I believe I read that on the newer ones, they switched the way it communicates and there are other options also. The drb3 lets you change a fair amount of settings like what octane its tuned for, reset adaptives, you can turn on or off horn chirp or blinker flash for the security, turn on or off autolock, see all the live sensor data to help troubleshoot, etc. And then for replacing any of the modules without a dealer. The ecu and possibly the skreem were the only one that I ran across that are supposed to be 'new' to change out But that just requires a chip reader or someone on ebay to change the vin and such.
Plus you have a dealer level scanner for up to 2016 for Chrysler, Dodge, Jeep, and Fiat using wiTech that comes with the pod.
*Be aware that these aren't exactly "authorized distributors" incase thats important to you*

 

My gosh, that car is your signature is beautiful!

 

Thanks
it’s been 5 years in the making. Lots of help from Forum members and it couldn’t have happened without Rudy and Rob.


8 weeks of winter left here before I can get it back onto the road

Crap

 

My hat is off to you. That’s some fine work

 

Anyway you can reprogram a used ecu for me? My car is at the dealer and after they reprogramed a skreem they ecu went! Can't find a new one now. Grrrrrrr. All this for them fixing my convertible top. The car ran fine when I took it in 3 months ago!

 

Forum Member Rudy Compart

Not very active on the forum but he worked his magic on my ECU a few years ago

 

It probably is too late to tell you this BUT never take a crossfire to a Chrysler dealership! I can't count how many posts are on this exact point! Get the car back, they will money-pit you to a trade in and rob you blind if you let them. I truly do not believe they 'reprogrammed' your SKREEM and that alone will cost you $$$$$$$ to no end. Good luck, you need it!


.

 

I took it then for the convertible top as some of the hydraulic rams went bad. Got a call that no power and the skreem was bad. Yes wish I had gone else where. They haven't even worked on the top yet