Hi everyone, hope you are all at home safe and healthy.

I am asking for help to the Crossfire DIYers/experts. I've been having battery drainage problems with my Crossfire lately. I exchanged a cheap battery under warranty that I bought in january of 2019 for a better quality battery this january 2020. I'm having problems again. There's a few wires hanging from the side of the driver's fuse panel from previous owner's sound system that I haven't been able to get rid of because of the way I suspect that my car, which is a salvage title has been put back together (by whoever repaired it). I attached a video to show and ask owners of 2007+ Crossfire with the knee pad airbag if they have the rivets holding the plastic knee dash trim like mine with this metal bar. Is it original or not? I need access behind the dash to remove all this wiring non sense and the rivets are holding me back.

My second thought is that I have installed a resistor on one of the airbag plugs to be able to have my car as a single stage airbag car to install my atiwe single stage airbag steering wheel with the mercedes hub. These steering wheels are plug and play on 2003-2006 but the wiring is not on later models due to the dual stage airbag. Could that cause a problem? The resistor on one of the wires?

Thank you so much

Here is the video of the knee pad airbag with rivets

https://1drv.ms/v/s!AmljZ7jB2TWusg5eFTOyrW2ACN6f




Thank you so much

 

My car doesn't seem want to unlock or lock with my keyfob and the light doesn't turn on when the door is open. Sounds like it could be related??

 

I think my problem might be the central lock system. Anyone knows how to gain access to it?

 

I doubt a relationship between the dome light and door locks; I'm guessing the dome light doesn't light when either or both passenger and driver door opens? Have you replaced the dome light bulb? Will the bulb light when you are in the car and move the switch to on?
The locking/unlocking air pump is located behind the right rear panel in the trunk/hatch. It is a job to get to it.
You should try to isolate/identify the battery drain before you dig into a search for bad modules. You place an amp meter between the negative battery cable and the ground, measure the amps and start to pull fuses until the amp drops to about 55 milliamps .055 amps or less.

 

I have found my problem!!! Under the hood, Fuse 13 on the driver side panel. The anti-theft alarm/horn. Pulled that fuse and the parasitic drain is gone. The alarm horn is not working. I didn't even know it had it's own horn. Anyone has ever replaced theirs? Any recommendation for a replacement that will last?

As for my fob. I got the cheap replacement shell and the batteries are lose in there so that's why it's not always working. It's working now.

 

Yank the cover off the cowl below the wipers.
Remove and unplug the siren.
Toss it in the trash.
Re-install the cover under the wipers.


DONE.

 

As Pizzaguy says you can disconnect the alarm (it has internal batteries which are shot and corroded) and throw it away if you do not mind not having a theft alarm. That was my solution several years past with no regrets. Others have replaced theirs. You can find much info by using the search box in the upper right corner of the forum and type siren.
Good job on identifying the problem.

 

I will probably replace it but for now it will stay that way.