After I turn off my vehicle, without being depressed, my REST button turns on- recycling the air inside, and does not turn off by depressing/pushing the button. Unlatched negative terminal battery line, waited about 15-20minutes, reconnected, and same result proceeded. Many assistance would be greatly appreciated. Possibly a fuse location so I can keep my battery connected without being drained from REST fan blower motor running while my engine isn't engaged.

 

There are five fuses that power the climate control items. Yes, FIVE.

BUT, three are switched with the ignition, so it isn't them - Fuses 35 and 15 are hot all the time, so it has to be one of those.
One thing you can do, if you don't want to dig in and fix this the right way (cant blame you there) is to use my trick to 'jumper' the appropriate fuse over to a switched feed.

I came up with a mod that makes the cigarette lighter and glove box light hot all the time. You could use my trick to make the appropriate feed "switched" instead of "hot all the time".
Look in my user gallery under "Cigar mod" for photos of the fuse kits and mod I did.

 

Whatever the cause the REST feature should automatically switch OFF when the cars brain senses that the battery has lost enough power for it to continue any longer. The REST heat feature runs a pump and the blower motor, if it was just the blower it would soon blow cold air. On AC it blows until the heat exchanger is warmer, the air also dries the heat exchanger and prevents mildew and bacteria growth on it
Good luck.

 

(35) did disconnect power, however , powered REST button on again as soon as I placed fuse in. Also with fuse removed my battery lamp illuminates, which has me hesitant on starting/driving with fuse removed

 

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Never heard of this issue. I suggest you remove the head unit (search the document collection for the .pdf showing removal/installation) and open it up to see if a family of spiders took occupancy, or if water somehow got into the PCB's. If spiders (webs are conductive) clean them all out. Other debris or moisture damage could also short across tracks, can also cause problems. A mouse or two may have also eaten away a few wires insulation somewhere, to the point of cross-conduction. A SIMPLE test would be to replace the head with another (fellow crossfire member or get one somehow, that may be expensive), if that 'fixes' the issue then at the least you know where the problem is. Along with the fan, the pump that circulates the coolant also runs (in the limited it is on the passenger side front fender well just rear of the headlight area, follow the single coolant line in front of the 'duo-valve' assembly), check that pump to see if in fact it is running while the fan is running. Come back and let us know if both the fan and pump are running (might help if a 'head' swap doesn't resolve your issue). At this point removal of a fuse is only a temporary solution to finding a permanent fix. Please keep us appraised of your situation? Good luck!


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