Hi all from Sydney, Australia.

My 2004 convertible refuses to start - no early warning given.
Engine cranks over, changed both crankshaft and camshaft sensors and cleaned the RCM and still no joy.
I did notice that the fuel pump relay does not open (or is it close) when trying to start - the other relays are OK.

Question is: are all the relays on the board identical - can I swap them over to see if the fuel relay is the problem?

I now also get a clicking sound when I try to start the car and the gear shifter is locked in park (I can unlock it with a screwdriver).

All helpful suggestions will be appreciated.


Thanks

Ron

 

You will find the answers to your questions in this thread, click on the link RCM repair

 

The RCM repair is not going to address the locked in park issue. There are many threads here on the forum dealing with that issue however, as well as videos on You..tube..showing how to remove the trim in case you need to change out your shift module...Good luck.

 

It might be an issue with a relay on the RCM (the clicking during starting) IF the battery was drained to the extent of it not being able to start the car regardless of the relay in the RCM.

Oh, YES, all 5 relays are the exact same relay in different positions.



.

 

Thanks GraphiteGhost and other respondents,

That is informative.

I am having another good look under better magnification at all the solder points and all relays in case there is
an obvious problem on the RCM.
Battery is being recharged.

There is a good supply of American Zettler relays in USA however, shipping to Australia makes the purchase excercise very expensive.

Just venting, why do most USA companies (especially on eBay) not ship outside mainland USA? Is it not the same effort to put a different value stamp
on the package and mark it "AUSTRALIA" once the payment has been received and cleared?

Anyway, thanks for your advice and I will follow up as work progresses.

Ron

 

Ron, I can understand the excessive shipping/problems with getting parts to you. I suggest you open your RCM (carefully, I used a few old credit cards to slip into the places where the tabs are on the RCM, to allow you to slide it open). Be careful you don't push anything into the RCM too far. When (and if) you get it open, closely inspect the solder side of the RCM where most problems occur (check the forum), then check the relay contacts for excessive burnt contacts. Use a relay contact cleaner if needed. There are a few posts about the relay magnetic coil suffering an 'open', which prevents that relay from operating when needed. SOME have asked about using a 'less necessary' relay in place of a faulty relay coil or badly degraded contacts (like maybe the horn relay)? Most recommend a new RCM if that is wanted/required. You might just bite the high cost bullet and source one of the best (low price) RCM's you can. Some also might be able to get a part much less expensive (with shipping to you) that might be slightly less than ordering directly from a US or international company. You also have the option of checking 'salvage/recycling' auto businesses local to you. This RCM is in a few different MB/Chrysler vehicles if I remember correctly. Good luck!



.

 

The RCM CAN cause the car not to shift out of park (traction control relay). You can put a rubber band around the fuel relay and see if the car will start.
I can refurbish your RCM but shipping kinda kills the deal. With shipping the refurbishment will run you $90 USD.
If you are interested email me at tighed1@hotmail.com for the details. Let me know it's for a Australia customer.

 

Thanks tighed1.

I was thinking about sending the unit to you after a couple more tries at starting the car (as you suggest)
and resoldering the suspect pins.

Still can't understand why US shipping is so expensive - it's a small package.

I will be in touch with you soonish.

Ron

 

I had the same problem mine was a bad fuel filter regulator. Check to see if you have fuel pressure at the fuel rail if not that is probably it.

 

American Zettler is represented in Australia by Arrow Electronics. You can find their phone number on Google.

 

Thanks onehundred80,

Found Arrow HQ in Melbourne and sent a message.

Waiting for reply.

 

Hi onehundred80,

Arrow Electronics in Australia cannot help.

Thanks again for trying to help.


Ron

 

I am sure that other solenoids will fit, they make these things to industry standards and if there is a market for them more than one maker will make them.
The thread the other day showing a fix with the solenoid with wires attached is an option as well

 

Problem solved.
Charged battery, borrowed better soldering iron and resoldered the three contacts on the RCM.
Got no response from starter but clicking on relays 1, 3 and 5. Found burnt 15 amp fuse in the RCM.
Changed fuse and reconnected. Car fired up for 1 second and stopped. Shorted the fuel pump relay
with a rubber band and all is good. The shifter is still locked in Park but I will get to that fix later
thanks to information on this forum.
Now I have to replace the relay. Only relay I can get is one in England, the $3.00 part will cost me$34.50
landed in Sydney but I guess I have no other choice.
Not sure if the exchanged camshaft and crankshaft sensors were necessary but at least they future proof
the car for a longer period.
Thanks to everyone for the helpful advice.

Ron

 

Success at last! Changed both sensors but still no start. Finally managed to buy a fuel pump relay, changed it
and car started.

Now I have more relays than I need (I had to buy minimum 10) and I am ready to sell 5 to anyone needing one
at the cost per each of 16AUD, 12USD, 10 EUR or 9GBP and shipping at Australia Post rates.

Problem now is that I have a part left over. It is described as a "protective cover" (part 90 on the diagram)
and over the last two months since the problem started, we forgot what it protects.

Part No. A 112 155 02 26.

Can anyone help?


Thanks

Ron

 

It's the protective cover/heat shield for the crank position sensor. It's held on by two of the bellhousing bolts. I wouldn't worry about putting it back on as I think you're better off putting some proper heat shield material around the top of the crank position sensor.

 

But I would recommend putting those 2 bell housing bolts back in.

 

Thanks CL770, found it.

Ron

 

Thanks ala_xfire, did that.

Ron