Everything works the same but the ac button. When its off its on. It doesn't light up at night but my other one didn't ether.

 

Thanks for the information! Much appreciate the clarification! Glad it worked & maybe some will 'convert' to the MB one if the prices are better than the Chrysler resale ones.


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bc75, have you tried to 'relocate' the temp dials to the MB head for the XF dash (taking the XF dials and use them in the MB head)??? I happen to like the look of the MB 'replacement' ones and if the dials are easily relocated, that would open up a flood of replacements, do you think? Of course, that is only if the head actually works without the erratic fan speeds and such.


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Why not remove the faulty part and replace it with the one from the SLK instead of ruining the Crossfire face plate.

 

I will take 2 of them, if you have enough available
Tell me where to send my money.
I tried pushing it under the computer monitor but it didn't work.
Bill

 

I tried taking the crossfire on apart and making it work with the MB unit. It didn't work they were to different. In the process i got the unit to light up a night. The bulbs were loose.

 

I would like to purchase one if you still have one available. Thanks Ed

 

Hello,
I had assumed that the intermittent fan control was due to the blower resistor that is mounted on the fan.
But now I'm wondering if it is the control unit.
Thoughts?
Thanks,
Michael

 

I have just gone through the whole procedure as written by jeffreyallison. If you follow his diagnostic approach you will be able to determine where the fault lies.

I took the control unit apart and cleaned everything with contact cleaner (Halfords).

I removed the potentiometer gave it a good soak and re-soldered it in.

Re-assembled the unit, re-soldering all the joints as I went.

Tested the outputs from the controller and all were found to be correct.

Refitted it all in the car and it still didn't work.

Replaced the "blower resistor" and all is well.

 

Can you tell me where I can get the resistor you said cured your issue?
Thanks in advance.
Ed

 

Ed, If your question is targeted at me (THETESTER), I am in the UK so I am of no help to you at all. If you are replying to someone else, sorry I have crashed you message.

 

Type it in the search feature at the top right of the forum page and you will get info.

 

Here is another P/N that Tom used but i can't find the part. peire spain 4K7428 ME

 

I just ordered ten from Digi-Key. I'm SICK of my fan speed acting goofy.

 

Ok, Digi-Key came thru. I HOPE these fit, I know they are the right value, not sure on physical characteristics.
I will tear my car apart soon and find out.

I ordered ten of these:
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/...20-E-S/9556014

 

Piher PT15NV 4K7 Ohm PCB Trimmer Resistor Potentiometer MBA007F are the ones that worked for others. I am sure you will let us know.

 

Before I replace my potentiometer, is this part mentioned by Pizzaguy the correct one to order?

PT15RV02-472A2020-E-S

 

Everything you always wanted to know about the PT15 but were afraid to ask: https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/1...15-3105269.pdf

The N apparently indicates the rotor shape and orientation. (rectangular shape with rounded sides and a small triangular incision). It seems the R is not a viable alternative because of orientation.
The V means vertical pins
The addional numbers Vxx describe the configuration of the pinpositions:
V12 is comparable with V02 just slightly longer pins.
V15 means the backpin goes straight down instead of slightly bend inwards. You could probably bend this inward yourself.

The A means linear response

Considering the tolerances, PT15NV02-502A2020 might be a viable alternative as well.

From what little I learned in the past (way back when), you may have succes with trying contactspray first as already mentioned in this thread.

Mine is currently acting up as well, so I'm affraid I'm going to have to delve into this also.

 

I had a big week at work, on Tuesday, I will take my Climate Controller to the office and use the lab desoldering equipment to change the part and verify that it is right.
I will report back as soon as I put the module back in the car. I know that ELECTRICALLY it is the correct part, I am not that sure about how it will physically fit.

 

That's the part. Fit and worked like factory.