ABS ESP/BAS light won't turn off
So I've seen alot of these on here but mines a little different. My 2004 has the ESP/BAS and ABS lights on and the spoiler won't go down. I've seen it could be the wheel speed sensor but the only code I have is a vehicle speed sensor which is for transmission. Would that make a difference if I fixed that?
Could also be a bad traction control relay in the relay control module. Remove and open the RCM, reinstall.
Turn the key to the ON position. Two of the middle relays should remain closed. If not, might be the problem.
Turn the key to the ON position. Two of the middle relays should remain closed. If not, might be the problem.
I'm going to try a few things today so thanks for that too. Hopefully I can get those lights off. Its more annoying then anything
Don't rule out the battery off the bat, sometimes they don't even last 3 years and the car is very picky when it comes to the battery. You can get it checked at an auto parts store for free.
So I've seen alot of these on here but mines a little different. My 2004 has the ESP/BAS and ABS lights on and the spoiler won't go down. I've seen it could be the wheel speed sensor but the only code I have is a vehicle speed sensor which is for transmission. Would that make a difference if I fixed that?
Last edited by Deepsea21; Feb 13, 2022 at 02:12 PM.
So to be clear it can totally just be a wheel sensor and not the vehicle speed sensor. Another thing is my car is now randomly losing my speedometer while driving
if you're losing your speedo / random limp mode / dash lit like a christmas tree = ABS module. Been there.
But First.. clean your battery ground at the body frame -- just do it. Also clean and reseat your fuses. Luck!
But First.. clean your battery ground at the body frame -- just do it. Also clean and reseat your fuses. Luck!
I certainly would clean the ground at the body frame and check the copper wire at the battery terminals and such but issues caused by a weakened battery or a bad ground usually result in an odd no-start situation with the dash lit up like a tree or problems that fix themselves once the car is running and the alternator is feeding 13.7V or so to everything. A weak battery or ground shouldn't be throwing specific codes indicating a potential problem with specific components that would cause the exact problems you are experiencing.
I wouldn't let someone sell you an entire new ABS module right away as a relatively cheap sensor(s) is most likely the cause of your problems. Before I inherited my XF from my father the Chrysler Dealer replaced the ABS module TWICE when the same problems presented and it was under warranty. After it was no longer under warranty my father just ignored the lights on and drove it for years like that. When I got it I took it to a reputable independent shop and they fixed all the mess replacing a simple wheel speed sensor. I'm convinced that Chrysler dealer kept billing Chrysler for ABS modules under warranty while replacing speed sensors!
I'm guessing you have Check Engine Light on, ABS light on, ESP/BAS on, and the traction control lit up in the middle of your speedo + your rear spoiler issue with that light flashing on the dash switch and your cruise control is not working. If you are going to work on it yourself and can't get the higher level codes that diagnose the exact issues in the ABS system I'd start with the Vehicle Speed Sensor and then if that didn't work replace all 4 wheel speed sensors as they are all going to fail at some point anyway (you wouldn't change only 1 plug or coil that failed). For the price of all 5 of those sensors a reputable independent European shop will probably charge about the same price just to diagnose the problem and replace 1 wheel speed sensor. So, I'd do all that before taking it to a shop and if that didn't work then I'd take it to a shop that had the right ABS diagnostic equipment because they charge to use that higher end equipment (and they should be entitled to charge more for that equipment they've invested in).
Last edited by Deepsea21; Feb 13, 2022 at 04:10 PM.
[/QUOTE] Ive never changed my Vehicle Speed Sensor on the transmission but another posted, "The speed sensor is mounted on the electrical plate located just above the sump pan. Remove the pan, remove the plate and replace the sensor if required." Maybe others can confirm this. [/QUOTE]
Well sounds like its gonna be a pain to try to get under there but ill start there and if that doesn't work ill try some other ideas. Thank you
Well sounds like its gonna be a pain to try to get under there but ill start there and if that doesn't work ill try some other ideas. Thank you
Ive never changed my Vehicle Speed Sensor on the transmission but another posted, "The speed sensor is mounted on the electrical plate located just above the sump pan. Remove the pan, remove the plate and replace the sensor if required." Maybe others can confirm this. [/QUOTE]
Well sounds like its gonna be a pain to try to get under there but ill start there and if that doesn't work ill try some other ideas. Thank you[/QUOTE]
Unless you can SAFELY lift the car to work under it and support it I wouldn't screw around with it... Take it to a shop. There's lots of other things on these cars you can work safely on without putting yourself in danger and save piles of $. There's no way you'll get under there without lifting it and if it comes down on top of you you're gonna have hospital bills that break the bank at best or end up dead at worst. There's minimal clearance under these cars. I personally won't go under one without proper equipment and back-ups in place to do so. Don't trust your life to some hydraulic jacks and the parking break (or a cheap set of ramps for that matter). Had a friend who was working on a Ford Explorer that has lotsa clearance and it rolled back off the ramps as he was under it.. He scrambled but still got a little squished under there as the weight came down and compressed the springs and shocks. He wasn't feeling well for quite a while. I don't know if didn't set the parking break and block the rear tires or what happened but it wasn't good.
Well sounds like its gonna be a pain to try to get under there but ill start there and if that doesn't work ill try some other ideas. Thank you[/QUOTE]
Unless you can SAFELY lift the car to work under it and support it I wouldn't screw around with it... Take it to a shop. There's lots of other things on these cars you can work safely on without putting yourself in danger and save piles of $. There's no way you'll get under there without lifting it and if it comes down on top of you you're gonna have hospital bills that break the bank at best or end up dead at worst. There's minimal clearance under these cars. I personally won't go under one without proper equipment and back-ups in place to do so. Don't trust your life to some hydraulic jacks and the parking break (or a cheap set of ramps for that matter). Had a friend who was working on a Ford Explorer that has lotsa clearance and it rolled back off the ramps as he was under it.. He scrambled but still got a little squished under there as the weight came down and compressed the springs and shocks. He wasn't feeling well for quite a while. I don't know if didn't set the parking break and block the rear tires or what happened but it wasn't good.
Last edited by Deepsea21; Feb 13, 2022 at 04:30 PM.
If you are losing speedo as well as have the light, it can easily be the relay that DJ mentioned. It COULD be the ABS module, but failure of the Traction Control relay (or it's two fuses) to provide power to the ABS module will give you the same symptom. This is all a sign the ABS module is not working, question is, is the module failing or is power to the module failing?
Since it comes and goes, I'd bet the Traction Control relay contacts are pitted and filthy (common) or the armature is sticking due to age.
Send the RCM to DJ and let him go over it, like so many of the rest of us have.
Since it comes and goes, I'd bet the Traction Control relay contacts are pitted and filthy (common) or the armature is sticking due to age.
Send the RCM to DJ and let him go over it, like so many of the rest of us have.
From what I read and this is on the R170 which may or may not apply to the crossfire the front left abs sensor can kill the speedometer and cause the abs light to come on.
Again just from what I found looking it up.
I thought I had read on here the speedometer was driven from the transmission so this may not apply.
Again just from what I found looking it up.
I thought I had read on here the speedometer was driven from the transmission so this may not apply.
Ok thats what I've been seeing alot so im trying.more things. Its not fuses or module so only leaves a few things left
Deleting this one as the R170 and the pictures of the crossfires abs sensor dont match and the post was about checking connections which dont seem to be the same.
I dont know why this is, but thats what the dyno guys say.


