Key fob transfer now unlock/lock does not work
Starting and stopping is the RFID chip. Locking and unlocking is the circuit board. Somehow you are not getting power to the circuit board. Are both batteries installed facing the correct direction? Are the contact tabs bent or broken so the contact isn't good? Lastly you may have a failed or damaged circuit board.
In your case since you see the red flash, I think you just need to sync your key fob with the vehicle. Apparently when the batteries are out for too long the car doesn't recognize the key.
So per the instructions:
Put key in ignition but don't turn on.
Press Lock or Unlock on your key fob twice in a row THEN within 30 seconds turn your key to the on/run position.
That should re-sync the fob to your vehicle.
I have seen two different sets of instructions for this procedure...some say you need to have the key in the ignition for this to work other said you just point the key at your car and perform the "double press" then insert the key..might wanna try both.
So per the instructions:
Put key in ignition but don't turn on.
Press Lock or Unlock on your key fob twice in a row THEN within 30 seconds turn your key to the on/run position.
That should re-sync the fob to your vehicle.
I have seen two different sets of instructions for this procedure...some say you need to have the key in the ignition for this to work other said you just point the key at your car and perform the "double press" then insert the key..might wanna try both.
Starting and stopping is the RFID chip. Locking and unlocking is the circuit board. Somehow you are not getting power to the circuit board. Are both batteries installed facing the correct direction? Are the contact tabs bent or broken so the contact isn't good? Lastly you may have a failed or damaged circuit board.
They look like little hooks...wonder if they somehow don't make contact.
At this point I'm almost wondering if it is the contact tabs. The ones that stick out, attach in the little nipple by of the plastic key fob case. Is there a certain way they are supposed to be bent?
They look like little hooks...wonder if they somehow don't make contact.
They look like little hooks...wonder if they somehow don't make contact.
I am assuming that the answer has been found and the OP has forgotten about those of us who are answering still. I must remember that.
Last edited by onehundred80; Jul 2, 2022 at 03:07 PM.
Either way, the fob is still not working. Kind of crazy...checked all the contacts and soldering points on the board and they seem fine...nothing looks worn, scratched etc. I figured since praying the key fob shells apart took a bit of force, that the looping contacts that are supposed to make contact with the batteries is at fault but now I don't know.
It says above it's only supposed to touch one battery. Which one is that? The top one? So basically the little "hooks" for lack of better term are supposed to hook on one of the batteries? Maybe mine are too bent?
Any tips are super welcome. And maybe I'm looking in the wrong direction...maybe it is a completely different part of the board that's the culprit. Not sure if anyone here had issues with their fob before and were able to fix the board...what was the culprit?
They just press against the side of the top battery. You didn't lose the tine micro chip in the very front of the FOB, did you? It is black and about the size of a small fingernail.
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OP, a question? When you place the batteries into the FOB case (2032's 2 each I believe), does the 'bottom' battery have a chance to, or is it possibly 'touching' the positive terminal at all? IF that is touching, the one battery on top will drain & the FOB just might be 'undervolted'. Since the FOB was opened/closed at least once (maybe even more), that 'positive' terminal coming up and around the batteries may have bent inwards some? You might have already checked that but if by pressing the battery cover on, could it maybe push over and short that top battery (I do not think there is enough 'current' in those 2032's to actually heat up that much so you might not have noticed a warm case). IF there is a possibility of the upper terminal that comes around that bottom battery is touching, then you will have to find a way to prevent that from happening (and check if either battery is dead). I know you said the batteries are new but..... Good luck!
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OP, a question? When you place the batteries into the FOB case (2032's 2 each I believe), does the 'bottom' battery have a chance to, or is it possibly 'touching' the positive terminal at all? IF that is touching, the one battery on top will drain & the FOB just might be 'undervolted'. Since the FOB was opened/closed at least once (maybe even more), that 'positive' terminal coming up and around the batteries may have bent inwards some? You might have already checked that but if by pressing the battery cover on, could it maybe push over and short that top battery (I do not think there is enough 'current' in those 2032's to actually heat up that much so you might not have noticed a warm case). IF there is a possibility of the upper terminal that comes around that bottom battery is touching, then you will have to find a way to prevent that from happening (and check if either battery is dead). I know you said the batteries are new but..... Good luck!
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Do your interior lights (up by the mirror) go on and off as you close the door? Seems like a weird question, but they are in the circuit with the siren and the anti- theft system and fuse #9 under the hood. Might be related to your problem with the seemly malfunction of your FOB. ( trying to think outside the box)
Do your interior lights (up by the mirror) go on and off as you close the door? Seems like a weird question, but they are in the circuit with the siren and the anti- theft system and fuse #9 under the hood. Might be related to your problem with the seemly malfunction of your FOB. ( trying to think outside the box)
Car stars with no issues.
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OP, a question? When you place the batteries into the FOB case (2032's 2 each I believe), does the 'bottom' battery have a chance to, or is it possibly 'touching' the positive terminal at all? IF that is touching, the one battery on top will drain & the FOB just might be 'undervolted'. Since the FOB was opened/closed at least once (maybe even more), that 'positive' terminal coming up and around the batteries may have bent inwards some? You might have already checked that but if by pressing the battery cover on, could it maybe push over and short that top battery (I do not think there is enough 'current' in those 2032's to actually heat up that much so you might not have noticed a warm case). IF there is a possibility of the upper terminal that comes around that bottom battery is touching, then you will have to find a way to prevent that from happening (and check if either battery is dead). I know you said the batteries are new but..... Good luck!
.
OP, a question? When you place the batteries into the FOB case (2032's 2 each I believe), does the 'bottom' battery have a chance to, or is it possibly 'touching' the positive terminal at all? IF that is touching, the one battery on top will drain & the FOB just might be 'undervolted'. Since the FOB was opened/closed at least once (maybe even more), that 'positive' terminal coming up and around the batteries may have bent inwards some? You might have already checked that but if by pressing the battery cover on, could it maybe push over and short that top battery (I do not think there is enough 'current' in those 2032's to actually heat up that much so you might not have noticed a warm case). IF there is a possibility of the upper terminal that comes around that bottom battery is touching, then you will have to find a way to prevent that from happening (and check if either battery is dead). I know you said the batteries are new but..... Good luck!
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Yes, I know all that. I read the entire thread, but you did not answer my question as to the interior lights. There is a reason behind my seemingly irrelevant question. Is your siren disconnected?
Point is, everything worked fine till I replaced the microchip from one key to another. Now, of course that's my fault. I have replaced 4 key fobs and I guess this one broke. So instead of getting a new key right away I was trying to see if it can be salvaged. Appreciate all the input and help from the forum!
The anti-theft system is integrated with the air pump in the rear of the Crossfire. If the anti-theft system is without power (fuse 9) the air pump doesn't work to lock/unlock the doors. The interior lights are also powered by fuse 9; thus if the lights aren't working the pump isn't getting power and the doors will not lock/unlock with the FOB even when the FOB is working correctly. Looking at the interior lights is easy quick way to see if there is power at the air pump. You have several times inspected your FOB and it seems to be okay from what you have told us, so I was looking for another explanation why the car doors were not locking and unlocking. I agree that the likely problem is in the FOB, but it being so easy to check the power to the air pump and anti-theft system it should be checked.
As for the siren, it to is part of the anti-theft system. The batteries leak and over time it will get on the electrical board in the siren which can interfere with the proper operation of the anti-theft system and possible prevent the car from starting. Leaving the siren connected is not a wise thing to do. It is best to open the cowl and replace the siren with a new one or disconnect the electrical connector at the siren so that it is no longer connected to the system. It is also a good time to clear any debris from the four drain lines that are under the cowl as clogged drains will give you addition problems down the road if they do not drain water out of that area.
As for the siren, it to is part of the anti-theft system. The batteries leak and over time it will get on the electrical board in the siren which can interfere with the proper operation of the anti-theft system and possible prevent the car from starting. Leaving the siren connected is not a wise thing to do. It is best to open the cowl and replace the siren with a new one or disconnect the electrical connector at the siren so that it is no longer connected to the system. It is also a good time to clear any debris from the four drain lines that are under the cowl as clogged drains will give you addition problems down the road if they do not drain water out of that area.
The anti-theft system is integrated with the air pump in the rear of the Crossfire. If the anti-theft system is without power (fuse 9) the air pump doesn't work to lock/unlock the doors. The interior lights are also powered by fuse 9; thus if the lights aren't working the pump isn't getting power and the doors will not lock/unlock with the FOB even when the FOB is working correctly. Looking at the interior lights is easy quick way to see if there is power at the air pump. You have several times inspected your FOB and it seems to be okay from what you have told us, so I was looking for another explanation why the car doors were not locking and unlocking. I agree that the likely problem is in the FOB, but it being so easy to check the power to the air pump and anti-theft system it should be checked.
As for the siren, it to is part of the anti-theft system. The batteries leak and over time it will get on the electrical board in the siren which can interfere with the proper operation of the anti-theft system and possible prevent the car from starting. Leaving the siren connected is not a wise thing to do. It is best to open the cowl and replace the siren with a new one or disconnect the electrical connector at the siren so that it is no longer connected to the system. It is also a good time to clear any debris from the four drain lines that are under the cowl as clogged drains will give you addition problems down the road if they do not drain water out of that area.
As for the siren, it to is part of the anti-theft system. The batteries leak and over time it will get on the electrical board in the siren which can interfere with the proper operation of the anti-theft system and possible prevent the car from starting. Leaving the siren connected is not a wise thing to do. It is best to open the cowl and replace the siren with a new one or disconnect the electrical connector at the siren so that it is no longer connected to the system. It is also a good time to clear any debris from the four drain lines that are under the cowl as clogged drains will give you addition problems down the road if they do not drain water out of that area.
My SRT6 came with the siren disconnected when I recently installed a new one in that car with the lock/unlock chirp function..
End results...interior lights work, car lock/unlocks with the interior button and also with the key in the door.
I'm definitely suspecting the board in the FOB having been damaged somehow. Visually inspecting it, I didn't see anything wrong with it besides slightly bent contact points at the battery and I compared it to the other working FOBs from the SRT6 and vent them exactly the same.
I am tempted to take apart the key fob again and hook up a multimeter to see which contact points/solder joints receive amperage.
Watched a couple of YouTube videos...including one from a guy who fixed a Crossfire FOB...and it kind of explains how to test trigger points on the FOB. Might try that in a quiet moment as a last resort. If that doesn't work it's going to be ordering a new FOB from Needswings etc. Been wanting to do that for a while anyways.
Thanks for your input and everyone's help!
One of the keys to my blue roadster quit working for lock/unlock a while back. Checked batteries, they were good, played with the battery + contacts a little, they looked good, the red light flashed so I tried the resync procedure. Put key in switch, pressed button twice and turned to run position, tried three times with no luck. Decide to try one more time and I accidentally turned the key to start, the car started and then the locking function worked. Just thought I would pass that along, maybe it will help someone.
One of the keys to my blue roadster quit working for lock/unlock a while back. Checked batteries, they were good, played with the battery + contacts a little, they looked good, the red light flashed so I tried the resync procedure. Put key in switch, pressed button twice and turned to run position, tried three times with no luck. Decide to try one more time and I accidentally turned the key to start, the car started and then the locking function worked. Just thought I would pass that along, maybe it will help someone.
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