Recently purchased a 2005 Cross fire coupe with 11 k miles on it, really nice car Drove it from Asheville Nc. to London about 40 miles from home no hiccups, ran smooth as silk on the gas that was in the tank I had stopped and ate on the way to London no problems.
Got gas in London at Shell Station filled up with 93 octane a couple lights later on the way home car falls on it face but does not die Straightens out and ran fine the rest of the way. I have driven it about 5 times since and it will do the same thing seems like more on a stop and right turn. I think sure it is going to die but never has , it picks back up and runs fine until I stop again . Any advice appreciated . I have ordered a fuel filter to put on it but really not sure that's the problem.

 

Still could be the gas that was in the tank in the first place, but anyway...........
1) When asking for help with a technical issue, keep in mind that the few words you type are ALL we have to go on. "Car falls on its' face" is not telling us much as that kind of statement is too vauge, as is your thread title, so I edited it as best I can but I will probably edit it again once you describe what the car is doing better.
2) It would be best to tell us more about the car. Auto or manual? Any performance mods?
3) YOu bought a car that has been driven, on average, 611 miles per year - this leads to a question: How long did it sit just before you bought it?

If I were to buy such a low miles car (and I admit, a car with 11,000 miles would be attractive to me) know that you bought a potential basket case. Im not saying the car is 'broke', I'm saying there are issues here.
I'd address the obvious with such a car (and frankly, my car has 70,000 and ALL of the above has been done at least ONCE since I got the car in 2015 at 28,000 miles):

• Replace ALL FLUIDS. (Notice the word "all")
• Replace belt
• Replace battery
• Replace fuel pump and filter/regulator
• Replace Tires and TPMS sensors
• Replace hoses

Not all of those will cause the car to not run right, but ALL of our cars are OLD.

Some will tell you to run injector cleaner thru it. I don't use such products, but on the other hand, I do use Sta-Bil year round in my car and bike because they sit so much.

 

2005 limited coupe automatic tranny.
The car has had a lot of the normal problems fixed on it by previous owner. It is stock and has no aftermarket performances done on it before I bought it the car had only had a little over 3 hundred miles put on it in the last 3 yrs. what I mean by falling on its face is that when giving gas to pull out from a stop it hesitated stutters to the point it almost dies , pump the gas and it takes off like nothing wrong with it. and it never does this while driving at any speed just when in a slow turn like like turning on to different street or stopping and taking off . may stop or turn 30 times and it will act up one time. a lot of times I drive it maybe 30 miles stopping and going and nothing

 

Rather than guessing and throwing parts at it I would get a good diagnostic scan completed. You will need to go to an independent garage that specializes in Mercedes (no dealers) or European car repair. Your car can be scanned as a 2003 Mercedes SLK 320. Get the exact numbers of the code, not just a short explanation like " oh it's the throttle body". Get the numbers of the code so you know what the problem is. You could start at a local auto parts store and let them scan the car for free. It won't hurt and you may get enough info to help find the answer to your problem, but they will only go through the common OBD II emission codes.
The best tool to scan the car with is the original tool designed for the Chrysler products of the time; DRB III but these are hard to come by with all the proper connections for the Crossfire.

In June not far from you in Athens Ohio there will be a get together of Crossfires. Consider driving up and meeting other owners on a weekend. See the events topic on the forum for more info.

 

And I believe a member attending the Athens event has the DRB III to look for all your codes

Crossfires in Athens (Ohio) June 1-4, 2023

 

WOW. I'd go thru that car end-to-end as I described in my post above. No wonder it's having issues - not saying the car is a wreck, just that there are things you do for a car that has sat for so long.

 

There is no check engine lite so I assume there is no code , right or wrong

 

Read it anyway, there can be pending codes that keep expiring before being set.

 

Would there not be a check engine light on dash if there are codes to check

 

Not necessarily . . . codes could still be in the memory even if the check engine light is not showing. This is why is is so important to scan first .

Daniel

 

Im having misfire issues with my Ford Ranger, there are ALWAYS pending codes, but only from time to time does it set a code and light the light.
Ya gotta read the damn thing if you suspect a problem, and you obviously suspect a problem and for good reason: There IS a problem.

 

dpdean, not only are there codes that can be stored and read when the check engine light is not illuminated, but a decent garage with the right scan tools can actually see real time info from your car as to fuel ratios and throttle body movement and many other sensors, so if the garage you choose to use are really good at what they do and make the time to do a through examine they can interpret those real time sensor readings and get a much better qualified explanation as to why your care is hesitating. All mechanics/technicians are not created equal. Does this hesitation only happen when the car is cold or after it has warmed up to operating full temperature? That is an important piece of information, and intermittent problems are the hardest to correct. There is some advantage as to just drive it until the once in a while problem becomes a every time I step on the gas problem as it will be much easier to diagnose.

I own two Crossfires and have done 99% of the work on them over the past 13 years, Pizzaguy has owned his cars even longer. You can drive your car the way it is and enjoy the ride, or fix it. We are giving you advice based on our experience in a manner which we hope will get you back on the road with a completely functional car with the minimum of expense. These cars really are orphans, as Chrysler does not support them and Mercedes hesitates to work on them because their scan tools are not completely compatible with the Crossfire's systems. There is a lot of experience here and we are giving you the best advice we have; Good Luck and hope to see you at Athens !

 

Have also found many things that are in memory but do not set the light (most say if the light is on or not.) At the moment have two that can do in depth scanning, an Autel DIaglink (under $100 on Amazon) and an Autel MS-906 I acquired. Plus a MicroPod I have not set up yet and Carly for Mercedes am getting updated.

This is an example:
Read Codes
C1140-128 Stored
N49 (Steering angle sensor) :Steering angle sensor is not initialized.
C1141-2 MIL ON&Stored&Current Pressure sensor :
B34/1 (ESP pressure sensor 1) : Electrical fault

Replaced the sensor (0015427518) and all faults cleared, lights out. But again you need a scanner that can read modules (ESP, BAS, RFI, ABS, etc) as well as OBD codes.

 

My $80 Bosch 1100 does that! Problem is, most 'mechanics' are not good at diagnostics.
It's so hard to find good, knowledgeable people, you pay $100 an hour for a guy who makes $25 an hour and is looking for a better job way harder than looking for what is wrong with your car.

ON A RELATED NOTE: I fixed the Ranger last night. All I had was a cylinder two misfire code and a "multiple misfires in first 1000 revolutions" code. That's it. Nothing more to go on.
Pressing pedal made the misfire way worse. Popping noise in the AM radio is what gave it away, something was arcing. There is only one thing strong enough to arc badly: The 32,000 volts coming out of the coilpack.
I changed the all-six-in-one coil pack ($88 for a MortorCratf OEM part) and the truck is FINE now. I beleive the pack was arcing internally either to ground or from pole to pole.

MY POINT: The codes can help you diagnose, but if you go only by the codes, you will probably have a long road ahead. I always preach "read the codes" but in no way do I mean that codes tell all, they don't, but they are information that helps you piece together what is wrong.

 

Agree BUT when I see many things referencing the same issue, in general that is where I start.
Or example when I had the BAS/ESP light that would not reset, sacn tool found this:
C1141-2
MIL ON&Stored&Current
Pressure sensor :B34/1 (ESP pressure sensor 1) : Electrical fault
C1141-4MIL ON&Stored&Current
Pressure sensor :Zero point offset error of component B34/2 (ESP pressure sensor 2)
C1141-8 MIL ON&Stored&Current
Pressure sensor :Zero point offset error of component B34/1 (ESP pressure sensor 1)
C1141-16 MIL ON&Stored&Current
Pressure sensor :B34/1 (ESP pressure sensor 1) , B34/2 (ESP pressure sensor 2) : Plausibility error

BTW the MIL (Check engine) Light was not on, the BAS/ESP was.
However since several mentioned the "ESP pressure sensor 1" and was inexpensive on Ebay, I replaced that. All of those errors, the BAS/ESP light, and those relating to the Steering Position Angle went away.
So indicators plus good scan tool plus troubleshooting experience will take you a long way but sometimes you just need to throw money at it.

Praise the Lord and pass the ammo.

 

Steering angle code stored is from battery being disconnected at one point. Then the BAS/ESP light comes on and you turn the steering wheel left and right and light goes away but then there is a stored code.

 

Except that turning the wheel did not reset...