I purchased a 2005 limited with one key that wouldnt lock the doors for my step son. So I had rob at NEEDSWINGS reprogram my only working key and cut and program 2 additional keys. I reinstalled the skreem module, antenna ring and ecu and the keys paired flawlessly to the to the vehicle....except now it won't start!

I had zero issues before re installing the skreem, antenna ring and ecu. I put the battery terminals on with the key mistakenly in the on position. I was worried I might have fried the ecu so I tried to connect a code reader to my obd port and the reader now cannot connect to the ecu. I decided to replace the crank and camshaft sensors on a whim...no luck. I checked the rcm solder connections and fuses all good. I checked to see if the rcm was functioning with the key on. Everything functions when I manually close the relays. The 2 relays close when the key is in the start position (verified while the wife tried to start it). I ordered a new rcm incase my current one is somehow faulty.

Any ideas on where I should proceed next? I contacted Rob at NEEDSWINGS to see if he has seen this before. Any help is appreciated!

 

No one???

 

Could really use some help here......

 

Can't help you with a post like that.

Is the starter engaging or not? Please don't say "it won't start" you are going to get ignored.
And Rob has seen it all before, we all have. But you are telling us NOTHING. What is the car doing? Is the starter engaging and it won't start or is the starter not even engaging?

 

The starter will not engage.. will not crank over

 

Turn key on.
Wait 45 seconds.
If engine cooling fan warps up to high speed, the RCM is bad.
if the fan does not do this, you have a failed starter interlock issue.

 

Thank you. I had been doing some reading on the forum the last 2 days pointing towards the RCM and have an RCM on the way. I just find it odd that it failed after getting new keys and re installing the skreem and ecu

 

I do too. But it IS a common fail item. I'd suspect the coil on the engine control relay has gone open, because you physically closed it and the ECU powered up. The ECU is powered by that relay. Power for the coil comes right from the ignition switch.

 

Got a new rcm from needswings and Amazon. Both are a no go. Still no crank. Fan fires up at full speed.... any other ideas?

 

Tried charging the battery which has a 10/19 manufacture date...nothing. Tried swapping the battery with a new one out of my jeep. Still nothing. No crank

 

THis tells us that the Engine Control relay output from the RCM is not powering up the ECU. OR, the ECU is simply D E A D.

Here is how to find which it is:

Get to the RCM, pull it up to where you can get to it.
Measure voltage on the five smaller fuses (forget the big 40amp fuse).
Three will have 12 volts on both sides of them.
Two will have no volts on both sides of them.

Turn key to "ON".
The two remaining fuses will have 12 volts on them.

ANY deviation from the above IS YOUR PROBLEM.
If all power up, the ECU is apparently dead.
If the last two never have power, even with key on, but others do, RCM is bad.


If you are good with schematics, get out the 2005 service manual, go to page 8W-10-21 and figure out your problem.
If you are not good with them, report back here.

 

Thank you sir! I will check first thing tomorrow and promptly report back with results. Again I appreciate your input

 

After checking voltage on the rcm I have no power to the 3 fuses when the key is off. But the 2 fuses have power when the key is ON.

 

HOld on, working on something for you.

 

Below is a photo supplied by, I think, Ala_Xfire (RIP). Given we have no internal diagram of the module, it takes a lot of tinkering to figure out the layout and fuse numbering, and the fact the service manual self-contradicts some of the facts makes it even harder. I tore my car apart just now and went thru this with a voltmeter and ohmmeter and added some notes and fixed the fuse labels. Fuses are labelled as per the diagram in the 2005 SRT and 2007 Limited Service manuals.

Bottom line, Fuse 1, 4, 5 and 6 MUST have power on them at all times. If they dont, your RCM won't perform properly due to the fact you dont have power to it.
When you turn the key on, Fuses 2 and 3 MUST power up. After about ten seconds, if the engine does not start, if the fuel pump relay did close, it will open but no fuse will lose power. WIth the key ON, all fuses must have power.

So,
1) Measure all fuses, verify that all fuses except 2 and 3 have power on BOTH SIDES of the fuse. If you have that, go to 2).
2) Turn key on, if you have power at 2 and 3, and car won't engage starter, you either have fractured solder on the RCM board in the ECU power path or you have an interlock issue.
2A) If you have power as in 1) above, and you turn key on, and no power shows up at 2 and 3, your RCM is bad and you must either buy a new one or send yours to DJ for reworking. If you buy a new one, send yours to DJ anyway so you have a good working spare to put in the trunk. Will save you a tow charge someday; it did for me.

 

I am now done editing my post.
Go back and read it again, as I got one sentence WRONG the first time.

 

I'm testing the brand new rcm from NEEDSWINGS I installed yesterday with the new fuses that came with it

I can't get any voltage readings when measuring through the fuses. When I remove the fuses I only get power with the key ON to location 2 and 4 (fuse 1 being the 40 amp then the 20 then the 15 ect).

With that being said I need to figure out why I'm not getting power to the other fuses.

 

DO NOT remove fuses to measure for voltage, use the built-in contacts in each fuse.
If you look at the diagrams in the service manual, you will see why I say that.

 

I understand that is not the proper way. I don't get any voltage readings when probing the posts with my voltmeter

 

To be clear: