Locking System won't disarm with FOB
This one is hard.
We know the SKREEM is decoding the FOB signal, because the SKREEM is flashing the turn signals.
We know that the CAN BUS from the BCM to the CLP//SSM is OK, because the console switch works.
We know that the CLP/SSM's pump is OK, because, again, the console switch works.
The driver's door lock cylinder is wired to the SKREEM, so if you unlock the drivers' door with the key, the SKREEM should tell the BCM, which then tells the CLP/SSM that an authorized unlock has happened and the alarm can be disabled. If you are not getting an alarm after unlocking the driver's door and opening the door, then we would expect the FOB to also work.
If you look in the service manual at the "Power Door Locks" section in the wiring chapter, you will see the control lines from the SKREEM to the BCM:
C4 - 57: Door Lock Switch Sense
C4 - 55: Door Unlock Switch Sense
C4 - 59: RKE (Remote keyless entry) Status
These pins are how the SKREEM tells the BCM when the FOB buttons or door lock cylinder are manipulated. I"ve never looked at these lines act in response to the FOB or key in the door. I may do a test or two this afternoon - that point is where you determine if the SKREEM is telling the BCM what to do, or not.
We know the SKREEM is decoding the FOB signal, because the SKREEM is flashing the turn signals.
We know that the CAN BUS from the BCM to the CLP//SSM is OK, because the console switch works.
We know that the CLP/SSM's pump is OK, because, again, the console switch works.
The driver's door lock cylinder is wired to the SKREEM, so if you unlock the drivers' door with the key, the SKREEM should tell the BCM, which then tells the CLP/SSM that an authorized unlock has happened and the alarm can be disabled. If you are not getting an alarm after unlocking the driver's door and opening the door, then we would expect the FOB to also work.
If you look in the service manual at the "Power Door Locks" section in the wiring chapter, you will see the control lines from the SKREEM to the BCM:
C4 - 57: Door Lock Switch Sense
C4 - 55: Door Unlock Switch Sense
C4 - 59: RKE (Remote keyless entry) Status
These pins are how the SKREEM tells the BCM when the FOB buttons or door lock cylinder are manipulated. I"ve never looked at these lines act in response to the FOB or key in the door. I may do a test or two this afternoon - that point is where you determine if the SKREEM is telling the BCM what to do, or not.
Hello Pizzaguy... I haven't heard back from you since your computer "issues". Were you able to recover the lost information? I'm still in the same situation with my interior still apart waiting for some help in resolving my own issues. I am locking (only the doors) with the key and pushing down the button manually from inside the passenger's door, but cannot lock the lift gate. She starts, runs, and is fine (useable), AND the auto headlamp delay is still working (it returned after I changed out the BCM, but all my other "FOB" problems still exist. Shall I reassemble the interior and just give up? I can thank you SO much for all you've gone through on my behalf and that effort is NOT lost on me! Grateful here in Massachusetts that I can still use my "Little Girl". She's up on a lift for the winter, safely tucked away in my garage.
This one is hard.
We know the SKREEM is decoding the FOB signal, because the SKREEM is flashing the turn signals.
We know that the CAN BUS from the BCM to the CLP//SSM is OK, because the console switch works.
We know that the CLP/SSM's pump is OK, because, again, the console switch works.
The driver's door lock cylinder is wired to the SKREEM, so if you unlock the drivers' door with the key, the SKREEM should tell the BCM, which then tells the CLP/SSM that an authorized unlock has happened and the alarm can be disabled. If you are not getting an alarm after unlocking the driver's door and opening the door, then we would expect the FOB to also work.
If you look in the service manual at the "Power Door Locks" section in the wiring chapter, you will see the control lines from the SKREEM to the BCM:
C4 - 57: Door Lock Switch Sense
C4 - 55: Door Unlock Switch Sense
C4 - 59: RKE (Remote keyless entry) Status
These pins are how the SKREEM tells the BCM when the FOB buttons or door lock cylinder are manipulated. I"ve never looked at these lines act in response to the FOB or key in the door. I may do a test or two this afternoon - that point is where you determine if the SKREEM is telling the BCM what to do, or not.
We know the SKREEM is decoding the FOB signal, because the SKREEM is flashing the turn signals.
We know that the CAN BUS from the BCM to the CLP//SSM is OK, because the console switch works.
We know that the CLP/SSM's pump is OK, because, again, the console switch works.
The driver's door lock cylinder is wired to the SKREEM, so if you unlock the drivers' door with the key, the SKREEM should tell the BCM, which then tells the CLP/SSM that an authorized unlock has happened and the alarm can be disabled. If you are not getting an alarm after unlocking the driver's door and opening the door, then we would expect the FOB to also work.
If you look in the service manual at the "Power Door Locks" section in the wiring chapter, you will see the control lines from the SKREEM to the BCM:
C4 - 57: Door Lock Switch Sense
C4 - 55: Door Unlock Switch Sense
C4 - 59: RKE (Remote keyless entry) Status
These pins are how the SKREEM tells the BCM when the FOB buttons or door lock cylinder are manipulated. I"ve never looked at these lines act in response to the FOB or key in the door. I may do a test or two this afternoon - that point is where you determine if the SKREEM is telling the BCM what to do, or not.
Fobs are a one time program deal, you wasting money.
Well, "ONE DRIVE" SUCKS.
I am unsure what happened, but I started up my "lab" computer (I have three PCs here) and it said, "One Drive has removed files". I noted that a lot of stuff was gone.
Booted one of the other PCs, same files were gone. Checked One Drive recycle bin - nothing there. File history in Windows is also gone.
So, I lost TONS of stuff, including most of my Crossfire documentation. I have logged out of ONE DRIVE, never to allow it to screw me again. I am restoring from my fourth PC (the one I have not used since I bought my new one early this year) and will then get into my stuff here and on Fakebook to grab the rest of what I have. Not sure what all this has cost me at this time.
Tomorrow (or today) I will go get a huge external drive for backup. No more online backups.
So gimme a few days to get my s*$% together.
I am unsure what happened, but I started up my "lab" computer (I have three PCs here) and it said, "One Drive has removed files". I noted that a lot of stuff was gone.
Booted one of the other PCs, same files were gone. Checked One Drive recycle bin - nothing there. File history in Windows is also gone.
So, I lost TONS of stuff, including most of my Crossfire documentation. I have logged out of ONE DRIVE, never to allow it to screw me again. I am restoring from my fourth PC (the one I have not used since I bought my new one early this year) and will then get into my stuff here and on Fakebook to grab the rest of what I have. Not sure what all this has cost me at this time.
Tomorrow (or today) I will go get a huge external drive for backup. No more online backups.
So gimme a few days to get my s*$% together.
Hello pizzaguy... I jumped in here at this point in time when you 'lost' so much due to "One Drive"... My car has been "apart" since while I have waited (and hoped) that you were able to recover your lost data and still be willing to help me in this issue. Nothing has changed... Fob does NOT work, but by swapping out the main BRAIN, I did regain my headlamp delay function. I just cannot "LOCK" my car. Trunk is in the NO lock position until I can get the electronics squared away (hopefully). Have you been able to regain your lost data? Do you feel that you can still help me? If not, I get it.. I'll put my car back together and just live with it the way it is. Thank you SO much for the efforts you have ALREADY put in on my behalf!! BoB in Mass.
Hello pizzaguy... I jumped in here at this point in time when you 'lost' so much due to "One Drive"... My car has been "apart" since while I have waited (and hoped) that you were able to recover your lost data and still be willing to help me in this issue. Nothing has changed... Fob does NOT work, but by swapping out the main BRAIN, I did regain my headlamp delay function. I just cannot "LOCK" my car. Trunk is in the NO lock position until I can get the electronics squared away (hopefully). Have you been able to regain your lost data? Do you feel that you can still help me? If not, I get it.. I'll put my car back together and just live with it the way it is. Thank you SO much for the efforts you have ALREADY put in on my behalf!! BoB in Mass.
2) ".... swapping out the main BRAIN" <--- You are not going to get any help posting stuff like this. There is no "main BRAIN". There is an ECU, SKREEM, BCM, CLP/SSM, etc. Which did you change? When dealing with technical issues, you MUST BE SPECIFIC with your statements.
3) As I quickly read this, since the turn signals flash with the FOB buttons, the SKREEM is hearing the FOB, but the message is not getting from SKREEM to CLP/SSM. That message goes from SKREEM to BCM to CLP/SSM. The console button goes to BCM, then to CLP/SSM. So far, I suspect a SKREEM or BCM issue.
The guys (Gannyx is one of them) at the MSS are very good with issues like this. They cannot work for free, but this is the kind of thing they work on. You were willing to take it to a dealer (bad idea), trade that idea for going to MSS. Im wokring long hours and cant spend a lot of time here.
Hi... I downloaded that manual, and I've 'tried' to read and understand that section 8Q on security, but I might as well be reading in Chinese. I'm okay on normal 12VDC wiring and such, but THIS is way out of my scope of skills. I don't even understand what they're telling me to do as a test, let alone "understand" this system. So, if you guys can't help me figure out why upon replacing the large module in the trunk well did NOT restore my vacuum locking system, or interior lighting (but DID restore my headlamp delay function) then I will have to take this vehicle to a dealer (God help me!). I'm not stupid, but also NOT an EE. I've tested the vacuum pumps on BOTH of the modules I have by removing them from their boards and apply in 12VDC and both pumps run fine. This tells me that some "brain" somewhere in this ridiculous system is NOT sending current to the vacuum pump when it should... that's about as far as I have been able to get so far and reading this manual did not help at all. Still needing help in Massachusetts... BoB
So just to summarize:
Car starts and runs, door locks work using the console button, but not the key fob, but when you hit LOCK or UNLOCK on the fob, the turn signals flash. Is that a good summary of where we are at now?
If so, know that the SKREEM talks to the BCM which then tells the CLP/SSM what to do. Fuse 9 (or 13 in some submodels) powers the part of the BCM that enables the SKREEM to talk to the CLP/SSM. I just had this on Saturday, Zach in SC was working on a lady's car that had a wet CLP/SSM. He replaced the CLP/SSM and last 2-3 feet of the wiring harness and had what you have. Fuse 9 fixed it.
I will say this ONE more time: If you changed the CLP/SSM due to water damage, you MUST change the last 2-3 feet of ALL wiring to the CLP/SSM. You CAN NOT clean or salvage those wires/pins because corrosion builds up between the pin and wire - there is NO way to clean that. I've done electronic repair from 1983 to 2011 and there is simply no way. PERHAPS it will work for a few months or a year - but the corrosion will eventually take it's toll. Do it right the first time.
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Feb 11, 2013 10:58 PM
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