Key Fob and AntiTheft Alarm not working
Hi everyone,
I'm a happy new owner of an automatic-gearbox, limited version of the Crossfire Coupe. went from a 75cv to this engine... needless to say I am amazed.
I'm having a bit of a trouble with this car however ; the Key fob buttons don't work, as well as the AntiTheft alarm.
Situation is not so great because the trunk cannot be locked without the fob buttons...
To sum up what I witnessed and what I tried :
- the key do emit red lights when clicking on both buttons. changed batteries, realigned the contacts FYI.
- it emits 433MHz signals for both lock / unlock actions (accurate frequency for EU)
- the car turn signals don't flash
- same thing on the instrument clusters
- tried reset the key fob using
, but noticed no change after that
- no chirp detected when clicking the fob buttons while out of the vehicle
- centralized locking fully works when clicking on the console
some more context :
- brought back the car on thursday, changed the car battery because it had died some months ago and needed a booster to start the engine
- antitheft alarm doesn't work, the actions on the console button give no response
- the fuse box has been reviewed, no trouble with the related fuses (16 - 23 I think)
According to RedDog comment on this thread, it seems that the Alarm battery may have died.
2 questions :
- I didn't find any relevant alarm module on ebay, since the links provided are 5+ years old. What should I look for?
- Index of Crossfire problems do describe a way to open the alarm module and fix the battery issue.
Is there something else I forgot to check for? Do you have any workaround for locking the trunk in a quick way?
Thanks for your help!!
I'm a happy new owner of an automatic-gearbox, limited version of the Crossfire Coupe. went from a 75cv to this engine... needless to say I am amazed.
I'm having a bit of a trouble with this car however ; the Key fob buttons don't work, as well as the AntiTheft alarm.
Situation is not so great because the trunk cannot be locked without the fob buttons...
To sum up what I witnessed and what I tried :
- the key do emit red lights when clicking on both buttons. changed batteries, realigned the contacts FYI.
- it emits 433MHz signals for both lock / unlock actions (accurate frequency for EU)
- the car turn signals don't flash
- same thing on the instrument clusters
- tried reset the key fob using
- no chirp detected when clicking the fob buttons while out of the vehicle
- centralized locking fully works when clicking on the console
some more context :
- brought back the car on thursday, changed the car battery because it had died some months ago and needed a booster to start the engine
- antitheft alarm doesn't work, the actions on the console button give no response
- the fuse box has been reviewed, no trouble with the related fuses (16 - 23 I think)
According to RedDog comment on this thread, it seems that the Alarm battery may have died.
2 questions :
- I didn't find any relevant alarm module on ebay, since the links provided are 5+ years old. What should I look for?
- Index of Crossfire problems do describe a way to open the alarm module and fix the battery issue.
Is there something else I forgot to check for? Do you have any workaround for locking the trunk in a quick way?
Thanks for your help!!
Last edited by SpookyGhost; Jan 27, 2024 at 07:23 PM.
The alarm siren is probably unplugged or shorted out. Usually is it is shorted out it drains the battery. To my knowledge they are no longer available. Do you have both key FOBS? Are you sure the batteries age the correct number in your owner manual? Be sure to check Fuse #9.
their no work around, also btw that sounds like used pcb board or it not sync. if the skreem accept the signal light should flash>>>sends the signal for the unlock/lock>>> locking pump unlocks/lock and sends a signal back
The alarm should not stop you from locking/unlocking the doors. The chip only is in the car starting circuit and does not affect locking and unlocking the doors.
Is it possible the fob is from another car and only allows the car to start? You never know what someone sells you until you find it does not work.
The fact that the light appears in the red window on the fob just proves the fob batteries are good.
There are batteries available for the car and they will flash the lights and beep in sync with the indicator lights.
It is a good sign that the locks work using the console button, so the problem lies in the signals sent by the Fob or the signal receiver.
This receiver is behind the map light area I think, see if it looks like someone has played around in that area.
I am no expert by any means on this subject though. Pizzaguy may know the answer hopefully
Good luck..
Is it possible the fob is from another car and only allows the car to start? You never know what someone sells you until you find it does not work.
The fact that the light appears in the red window on the fob just proves the fob batteries are good.
There are batteries available for the car and they will flash the lights and beep in sync with the indicator lights.
It is a good sign that the locks work using the console button, so the problem lies in the signals sent by the Fob or the signal receiver.
This receiver is behind the map light area I think, see if it looks like someone has played around in that area.
I am no expert by any means on this subject though. Pizzaguy may know the answer hopefully
Good luck..
Last edited by onehundred80; Jan 28, 2024 at 09:09 PM.
Thanks Gent for your answers. will try to be as precise as possible
If you mean the transponder / or the wireless emitter : yes. changed my key box yesterday, had to transfer the transponder (which was glued (??)) but the operation was successful. signal gets emitted, red light flashes, car really turns on when using the key. but no centralization with the FOB and no alarm.
Well I've got enough things to start trying to locate the alarm module and find out. I only have one key FOB, the other wasn't with the car.
I didn't find any mention about the "batteries age" in owner_manual_crossfire.pdf, is the regular manual found on mopar the one you're reffering to?
fuse #9 seems to be good to me, since the roof light and the trunk light do work.
Here's what i could say : the key turns on the car and the transponder is OK. it was glued inside the key on the upper part, which makes me think it's the original key / fob since you can't displace the transponder without breaking the glued side (which is what I did but hopefully the thing still works)
When you talk about the map light, is that the same thing called the roof light? because there really is something related to wireless with 3 buttons and a red light but i believe it's the garage door opener. Am i wrong?
any sentence with SKREEM gives me a headache. I've seen enough posts to see where it's going... 
If you mean the transponder / or the wireless emitter : yes. changed my key box yesterday, had to transfer the transponder (which was glued (??)) but the operation was successful. signal gets emitted, red light flashes, car really turns on when using the key. but no centralization with the FOB and no alarm.
The alarm siren is probably unplugged or shorted out. Usually is it is shorted out it drains the battery. To my knowledge they are no longer available. Do you have both key FOBS? Are you sure the batteries age the correct number in your owner manual? Be sure to check Fuse #9.
I didn't find any mention about the "batteries age" in owner_manual_crossfire.pdf, is the regular manual found on mopar the one you're reffering to?
fuse #9 seems to be good to me, since the roof light and the trunk light do work.
The alarm should not stop you from locking/unlocking the doors. The chip only is in the car starting circuit and does not affect locking and unlocking the doors.
Is it possible the fob is from another car and only allows the car to start? You never know what someone sells you until you find it does not work.
The fact that the light appears in the red window on the fob just proves the fob batteries are good.
There are batteries available for the car and they will flash the lights and beep in sync with the indicator lights.
It is a good sign that the locks work using the console button, so the problem lies in the signals sent by the Fob or the signal receiver.
This receiver is behind the map light area I think, see if it looks like someone has played around in that area.
I am no expert by any means on this subject though. Pizzaguy may know the answer hopefully
Good luck..
Is it possible the fob is from another car and only allows the car to start? You never know what someone sells you until you find it does not work.
The fact that the light appears in the red window on the fob just proves the fob batteries are good.
There are batteries available for the car and they will flash the lights and beep in sync with the indicator lights.
It is a good sign that the locks work using the console button, so the problem lies in the signals sent by the Fob or the signal receiver.
This receiver is behind the map light area I think, see if it looks like someone has played around in that area.
I am no expert by any means on this subject though. Pizzaguy may know the answer hopefully
Good luck..
When you talk about the map light, is that the same thing called the roof light? because there really is something related to wireless with 3 buttons and a red light but i believe it's the garage door opener. Am i wrong?
Here's what i could say : the key turns on the car and the transponder is OK. it was glued inside the key on the upper part, which makes me think it's the original key / fob since you can't displace the transponder without breaking the glued side (which is what I did but hopefully the thing still works)
When you talk about the map light, is that the same thing called the roof light? because there really is something related to wireless with 3 buttons and a red light but i believe it's the garage door opener. Am i wrong?
The alarm sirens are no longer available, no one pays attention to them anyway. It is located under the cowl in front of the windshield. U-tube is your friend.
The two electrical sockets on them are identical to the original. Both of these are still available, order it using the Mercedes part number, never order it by the Chrysler number it will either be out of stock or a smarter parts supplier will sell you one of the Mercedes parts with a large price mark up.
Facebook is not as good as the CrossFireForum.org for part numbers, so go there for part numbers and posts on how to do the job.
Hi friends!
Just a quick sum up before closing this thread. Will post a dedicated subject once my problems get definitely solved.
After a lot of search, my mechanic and me came across the hypothesis of a failure of both the SKREEM and the RCM.
One for the Remote fob not working, the other for the Instrument Cluster powered on but no start.
Turns out there was even more (lol), as the previous owner installed a "no antilock" device inside the ECU.
I had to rely on the deep expertise of @Viper-666 who successfully and quickly sent me another, working SKREEM with another ECU.
And for additionnal security, I purchased a new RCM from Mercedes (237€ with VAT), to replace what seemed to be an already replaced RCM from 2018.
Situation is very fine, FOB works locally and remotely, my XF restarts like a charm, either cold or warm start there's no issue anymore.
next stop : regaining the TPM, cruise control, and solving some CAN generic errors that pop up from time to time.
Thanks to all the enthusiasts involved in the thread!!
PS : the new alarm part is A 219 820 32 2664, you'll need an additionnal bolt (different stick mechanism) but overall the alarm seems to be pretty much the same. costs 183€ VAT included, which is f* yuge
Just a quick sum up before closing this thread. Will post a dedicated subject once my problems get definitely solved.
After a lot of search, my mechanic and me came across the hypothesis of a failure of both the SKREEM and the RCM.
One for the Remote fob not working, the other for the Instrument Cluster powered on but no start.
Turns out there was even more (lol), as the previous owner installed a "no antilock" device inside the ECU.
I had to rely on the deep expertise of @Viper-666 who successfully and quickly sent me another, working SKREEM with another ECU.
And for additionnal security, I purchased a new RCM from Mercedes (237€ with VAT), to replace what seemed to be an already replaced RCM from 2018.
Situation is very fine, FOB works locally and remotely, my XF restarts like a charm, either cold or warm start there's no issue anymore.
next stop : regaining the TPM, cruise control, and solving some CAN generic errors that pop up from time to time.
Thanks to all the enthusiasts involved in the thread!!
PS : the new alarm part is A 219 820 32 2664, you'll need an additionnal bolt (different stick mechanism) but overall the alarm seems to be pretty much the same. costs 183€ VAT included, which is f* yuge
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