My outside temp is stuck at -36 F.. My EBS and ABS lights are flashing. Drive and Park are flashing greyed out. I have tried disconnecting battery for extended period, then put in a new battery , no change. Replaced RCM. Seems to run normally. Did a little more investigating. My OBD2 can read wheel sensor speeds and all 4 are working. The temp gauge actually does word , but it goes in and out like the rpm gauge and the ESP BAS , drive indicator , TPMS and others. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Error code P0600

 

This is an odd one. The RCM is highly suspect, but you have addressed that.

So it runs fine, but a lot of instruments/indicators are hysterical. You have a "Serial Buss" error code, that apparently means the ECU can't talk to SOMETHING it wants to talk to. That could be any module on the CAN bus that the ECU is on. Those modules are: Transmission Control Module, Shift Lever Module, SKREEM, Brake Controller, and Instrument Cluster.

LOGICALLY, Id probably suspect the Instrument Cluster because you say the car drives fine. The car can't drive fine if the ECU/SKREEM/Transmission Control/Shift Lever modules have a problem. But the Instrument Cluster in a failed state would not cause the ECU to not be able to run the car.

I do know there have been a FEW IC failures over the years. I'd be sure the battery cables, block to chassis jumper and alternator are good before I tore into that Instrument Cluster. I'd also do James' mod right away:
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...le-engine.html

Has this car had flood/water damage in its past?

 

Thanks for the reply. Have done the "James" mod previosly. Do you think the yaw sensor could cause all this ?

 

maggy55, please read my response in the post you wrote yesterday. CAN BUS info there

 

Hi Maggy,
The outside temperature reading could be because the wire to the exterior temp sensor is damaged or broken. I had rabbits eat through mine, and the outside temp reading was -xx F (don't remember exactly, but it was wrong). I fixed the wires, and the outside temp now works. One quick check of the CAN BUS is to measure the resistance on the CAN BUS (it's between pin 1 and 11 on one of the ECU connectors (i don't remember which ECU connector, but that's in the service manual)). It should read around 60 ohms. If you have an intermittent CAN BUS failure, then one symptom is all the dash lights coming on while the car is driving.
Good Luck
-Jerry

 

Not all of that, no. The outside air temp may be a separte issue, as others have indicated. But the tach and TPMS are not part of the ABS system, they are part of the instrument panel - all of that is, and there is quite a bit of electronics in the panel.

 

Okay, replaced YAW sensor. Cleaned and reconnected wiring on ABS and ECU. Checked wiring under right side of interior dash. Checked wiring under fuse box. OBD2 reader shows TCM module " p0600 IC instrument cluster can message incorrect" and P0600 "IC HVAC can message missing" . ESP module shows all kinds of errors, steering angle sensor missing, CAN malfunction YAW reading, NO steering angle message, PCM coding incorrect, CAN malfunction renote sensor cluster, LF and RF wheel sensor failure , Steering angle sensor malfunction. Tach, Speedometer and Engine temp gauges all pulse and off. Brake, BAS and ESP flash sporadically. Rad fluid level flashes, Brake wear indicator flashes. High speed fan does not come on after starting car but does come on and stays on after driving a few minutes. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

 

Hi Magg55. You seem to have a CAN Bus problem. A lack of communications between several sensors and the PTCM (Power Train Control Module).
There are numerous tests to be conducted to determine exactly where the error might be. I would start at the PTCM connectors and simple carefully disconnect, clean with deoxIT D5 and
reconnect. If that doesn't help then I would start testing as per the service manual at P0600 No Cluster Bus Message at section 9 page 529. Someone with a lot more electrical troubleshooting
experience would have to take it from there as most of it is beyond my abilities. I hope you can find the help you need. Good Luck!

There are also a couple splices S117 and S116 that are common to the sensors you are having trouble with. Go to page *W-18-5 of the service Manual.It shows the CAN Bus and the common links to the sensors you are having trouble with and the splices.

PS I was thinking you best check your grounds also. First place to start is the stud with the brown wires attached located under the fill spout for the windshield cleaning solution.

 

Hi Maggy,
I had the same error codes, P0600. It was the CAN BUS - the splice at S116 had failed. Unfortunately, S116 is located in the harness under the brake booster - impossible to get to without taking apart the braking system, so I jumpered a twisted pair from the instrument cluster can bus to the shift lever assembly can bus and that solved my problem. It sounds like you issue is currently intermittent. Mine became permanent such that the car would not crank. I wrote up my experience tracing the fault in the CAN BUS and you can find it in the forum. It's not for the faint of heart.
-Jerry

 

Thanks for all the input, appreciate it.

 

Fixing or replacing the ground wire is a good idea. However, there is a reason that MB did not ground directly to the battery. The electronics are sensitive and need body grounding is likely the reason. My reasoning as a solar contractor and knowing the importance of grounding, is that they did not want a possible direct short going straight to the battery. It should go to the body and the inner fenderwell is a welded on piece of the body. Consider this, When a short occurs, the ground wire or grounding circuit, becomes a current carrying conductor. The grounding circuit will carry current until a fuse blows or a wire melts or a piece of electronics burns out. If a fault occurs and you are grounded to the battery it will send current to every grounding circuit in the car, as opposed to just the affected circuit that has faulted. You are essentially bypassing the fuse which is the primary protection of a circuit. Personally, I would not want any current going to the negative side of any battery. It could cause the battery to explode. ( I have seen this happen on grounds to batteries when a fault occurs ). It would be the same effect as trying to jumpstart with the cables reversed on the battery terminals. Reversed cables will fry the skreem and at the very least scramble the ECU at the same time, and in a millisecond. In German engineering, everthing has been well thought out, there is a reason for everything that they do. These are my thoughts based on my 22 years of experience with DC circuits and ground fault repairs. Solar is exactly the same as automotive as far as the DC side goes. The same rules apply to both. Grounds must bond to earth. Not a battery.

 

Believe it or not , after repairing four wires (rat damage) behind the instrument cluster everything works. No more engine light, no more high speed fan , no more cluster gauges going up and down , no more 36F degree reading.

 

Thank you for the update. I'm glad that you found the problem!