Hi all,
I'm getting random alarm triggering. I swapped my alarm for the NeedsWings OEM replacement, now the alarm just sounds better when it triggers!
The codes I'm getting which my auto electrician says are related to this problem are:
1436-0D-13 - slow response fuel door lock actuator
1436-0C-12 - slow response - drivers door lock actuator
971900H/9902336 - X2 - Refer OEM repair information for code description
All doors do lock, including the rear hatch and fuel cap.
Any advice from these codes on what the actual problem might be?
If it's relevant, when I lock the car, I can hear the fuel pump lock "gearing" moving for what seems like a long while - maybe 15-30 seconds, before I hear a kind of locking sound and it goes quiet.

 

You may have a leak in the air/vacuum lines running from the pump in the rear of the car to the various lock/unlock units, or the pump itself is dying. Those lines are some type of plastic and they are getting brittle, and tending to crack as doors are opened and closed.

 

Thanks Zip, but I don't understand why this would set the alarm off randomly, sometimes many hours after locking. All the locks shut, so the pump and lines are working, even if there is a leak or low pressure. Your thoughts?

 

Hi all, to help me ascertain whether the pump is failing or there is a leak - because I can't hear anything like air escaping - can others tell me whether they hear right side of the rear, whirring, or it takes 15 seconds or so for the fuel lock to click shut.

 

Can anyone decode these codes that also came up: 971900H/9902336 - X2 - Refer OEM repair information for code description

 

Hi, Is your car a Coupe or a Roadster? If it's a Roadster then I think I know the cause.

 

Hi CL770 - sorry for the tardy response. It's an SRT6 Coupe, so probably not the cause you were thinking of?

 

The air/vacuum pump is an integrated unit properly referred to as the Central Locking Pump/Security System Module (CLP/SSM). If you are having problems with locking unlocking you have problems with the anti-theft system. In other words the siren.

You say you have a coupe SRT6. Have you removed the wing and re-sealed to prevent water from dripping down onto the CLP/SSM? That is a common problem. When water gets down into the rear of the car it corrodes the wire connector at the CLP/SSM and causes all sorts of problems.

You should open up that space under the foam at the bottom of your hatch and inspect the CLP/SSM for corrosion at the electrical connections. If you find trouble there you must re-seal the wing.

Those codes look like lock/unlock sense circuit or alarm triggered codes, but I can't find those specific numbers. They do look like "body" OBDII diagnostic codes.

 

Thank you Zip439, I'll check the corrosion possibility.

Technically, I'm not having a problem with the locking and unlocking - yet. Everything is locking and unlocking without problem. But, maybe I need to replace either the tubes or pump to be sure.

mb

 

THIS! ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

How it all works:
The alarm siren sets itself off when its old and its batteries leak and ruin the circuit board.
OTHER THAN THAT, the CLP/SSM is what sets off your siren.

What is wrong:
The CLP/SSM is compromised due to water intrusion.
or...
The CLP/SSM microcontroller is damaged by electrical disturbances ("surges") due to running for years with a weak battery (I change my battery at 48 months, period).
or....
Once locked, one of the following is indicating intrusion: Console storage compartment door "closed" sensor, glove box door switch, one of the car's door switches, engine hood/lid switch or the trunk latch switch. Also, the two sensor can false and think the car is being towed. I am NOT so sure those codes you are getting are a clue; they are used to sense if a hose is leaking but I am not so sure that the alarm would be triggered on one - it is clear from the code descriptions (if we can trust them and much of our documentation is wrong/incomplete so who knows?) that the SSM knows it has a slow locking action, NOT that there is intrusion.

 

This is very useful info and thinking pizzaguy.

So the codes are slow locking action and therefore not triggers for the siren. None-the-less, I may have a failing pump or hose leak, and should get that replaced.

If there was a (false) intrusion detection, wouldn't that trigger am intrusion code record as well. There isn't one, meaning it is not falsely detecting an intrusion.

So the towing sensors might be malfunctioning.

My tasks this weekend are to check the trunk for water intrusion.

I'll get my auto electrician to check the micro-controller and the towing sensors.

I'll replace the locking air tubes, and check the pump pressure.

Thank you again.
Mark