@xintersecty
Here's the post I did on the OIl Catch Can. LINK to Oil Catch Can Install
Hopefully you will get a visual on the routing of the hoses.
The big hose to the throttle body stays. Use one of the plugs that comes on the oil catch can to plug the passenger side of the connector on the intake.
You will be using the provided hose for everything else. It's an easy job and it will reduce the oil that goes into your intake.

 

Thanks, the routing and double check is what i needed. Thanks @zip439 and @ZERACER for the advice

 

Glad to help.
BTW, I just emptied my catch can a couple of days ago. In less than a year I got almost an ounce of oil out of it. Well worth the money!

 

This might be a just a dumb question but I am going to ask it. How do you empty the catch can? Considering the drain is at the bottom and buried in the engine compartment, is just a matter of pulling it out when you do an oil change and hope it drains out?

 

As you said you remove it from the car at oil change intervals and drain the can from the bottom. There is a cap there that unscrews. I put a small o-ring inside the cap to help make a good seal and when I drain the can I will spray brake or carb cleaner into it to help it drain and clean the inside. Be very careful with the mounting screws; Dropping is a one time thing because they disappear down a bottomless hole.

 

I put a couple of paper towels under mine. This way if I drop the nut or washer, it lands on the paper towel.
The new catch cans from Needswings has the O-ring in them now.
Thanks for the tip about spraying the inside to help the oil out.

 

I pulled and replaced all the spark plugs, I used a copper anti-seize compound on each plug. The plugs were long over due for replacement.


Past due

More past due


While removing and replacing spark plugs, I noticed there is a bracket just hanging loose attached to a cooling hose. Does anybody have a picture showing the correct mounting location for this bracket?


I have no idea where this goes.

 

I have a manual transmission car. I haven't seen anything like that.

 

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Was that bracket loose on the hose? If it is not loose where you found it, take a picture with the location in the center of the picture is (back a bit) where it came from so ppl know whereabouts to look for a bolt or screw where it was originally mounted (I've been under my XF hood but never seen that unless bases on the angle of the bracket it is partially covered by something else under the hood). There is quite a number of feet of hose there under the hood...

Once we can know a narrowed down location (hence where it loose/tight on the hose), we might be able to assist where it belongs (closer area to look for it's mounting point).


.

 

Updates
I forgot to download the picture showing the location of the bracket. I did a bunch of research through the parts manual looking for a match, no dice. It was located on the two hoses going to the duo-valve. I have marked the location where I found the backet on the following diagram.


location of found loose bracket

Now the COOL news. I got my valve covers powder coated. I am very happy with the job.


pretty

just for show

more for show

While the color is not a match, it's an eye popping red that will get attention. YES, I know. Once you put the air box on the engine, you can't see the beauty. Maybe in the future, I will go to a modified cold air intake and get the intake header coated. I mostly did this for protection as the original valve covers look like doo.

Now a question. I need to put the breather covers back on the main valve covers. Do you use the gunk to seal up the screws holding them. It looked like the previous what ever did that.

yeah it's not pretty

So just clean them and put them back or put a tiny bit of sealant around the screw?

 

Do not put RTV on the threaded shank of the screw. Look at the inside of the breather cover. RTV goes in the groove that goes around the perimeter of the breather and follow the grove inside and you will see where it surrounds the screw holes and also the dividing partitions in the interior of the breather cover. RTV goes inside that grove and thus will surround the screws from the inside and make the seal. Often some RTV squeezes onto the threaded shank as you set the breather in place and tighten it down. Takes just a small thin bead of RTV.

 

The valve covers look great! You will be able to see some of them even with the cover on.
If you're reusing the original screws, don't over tighten them. I tightened mine until some rtv seeped out. I waited an hour then torqued them down to about 2 to 2.5 Newton meters/24 inch pounds.
I've included a couple of pics from my post, including one with the torque sequence. Good luck!

 

That diagram is sure hard to follow, I can't place that bracket there but I'll look around my 08 in that area to see if I can find something that looks like it. One thought, is your duo-valve mounted on a bracket that mounts on the side near the wheel well? TBD.


.

 

The diagram shown by OP is for a SRT6. He stated in the first post and the pictures show an engine bay of a Limited. The hoses are NOT the same of the two models. The SRT6 from the factory has an additional hose routed to the bottom of the reservoir coolant tank that the Limited does not have. Also notice in the diagram the two small hoses coming and going to the intercooler.

That is not the correct diagram for a Limited.

 

Thanks for the clarification Zip! Now I know why I was so confused (we all know how diagrams are not that accurate in the SM anyway). I did see my duo-valve assembly, it just might be part of that bracket assembly (seems the duo-valve and the PS heat shield are on a bracket, without taking mine apart I have no idea if they overlap (two brackets together) or if the one bracket is the same as what he showed in his post.

xintersecty, is there a bracket on your duo-valve that mounts both on the wheel well area AND goes into the engine bay area to hold the front of the firewall/engine heat shield? That's about all I can see inside my bay where the duo-valve is located. Good luck!


..

 

I got my documentation from this link:
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...ollection.html

The parts catalog I used to extract the picture was labeled 2005 Crossfire Parts. I believe it covers both the limited and the SRT. So the picture I picked very could be for both. Again when you have senior members who know more about the car than the manufacture, you are going to get the details you need. And, that's a good thing,

Here is a picture of my duovalve.


Yes it's located above the passenger side wheel well. I am going to take another look in the car and chase down those lines. This is really weird. It could be some random addition to my car. The backet was mounted near the radiator closer to the fill tank. See the picture above when I removed it.

Currently, I am waiting on a needswings order (Thanks Rob) as my oil cap got busted and decided to replace the oil filler neck. I just ordered new oil for the oil change that will happen once everything is put back together.

 

I was working on mine today and I looked around my Duo Valve. It's mounted the same way as yours. Tomorrow, I'll check around the coolant tank and radiator.

 

i finally got time and all the needed parts to get everything together. My goal was to fix hesitation while driving. Quick summary of what I wanted to do:
1) Powder coat the the valve covers
2) Replace the valve cover seals
3) New spark plugs, new coils, and new spark plug wires
4) Replace intake seal for the throttle body
5) Add in the oil catch can

I got the new Bosch coils and made in Eastern Europe:

New coil on the left. Made in Slovenia

Here is two pictures showing the new powder coated valve covers. If any oil leaks it should be easier to clean. I did go through and steam clean the the engine bay.



So after much work, getting everything put back together. I went for test drive and go the same DAMN hesitation. Car does idle better and the output on the exhaust is cleaner.

So based on reading, the next thing to replace is the fuel pump and the fuel filter. I got those ordered.

 

Before you throw parts at it. Drive it some and see if any codes come up.
You can test the fuel pressure easy enough on the fuel rail.
Fuel pressure should remain in the 50 psi range for at least an hour or so after you shut off the car. If it falls fast then go ahead and replace as you post above. It will go to near zero if the car sits awhile. That is why you here the car's fuel pump when you switch the key on; Build up pressure ( should be about 55 psi) before the starter engages.
I suspect it is the foot acceleration peddle, but it could be EVAP related if that code comes back up.

 

Oh yeah, I forgot to add one more thing in my goals, was to replace the evat solenoid. I will be swinging by harbor freight and pick up a fuel pressure test kit. I will let you know what is measured. Thanks!