It's not science until you write it down. Well I took pictures and going to write it down.

I got a fuel pressure tester from HF and run some tests last night based.

Running Pressure

60 PSI while running

Fuel Pressure with engine off:

Fuel Pressure after turning off 55 PSI


Fuel pressure after long wait ( GF and I were practicing **** dancing (not what you think it is) and it got dark). Estimated time about 45 mins to an hour.

About 45 min wait, pressure drop to 24 PSI

I get only one fault on the scanner with ODBII

P0453
P0453 Evaporative Emission Control System Pressure Sensor High Input

During Idle, the car will start to slow down and shutoff. The fuel pressure does not drop. I am not sure about the cause. I did replace this valve located here:





2005 CHRYSLER CROSSFIRE 3.2L V6 Exhaust & Emission : Vapor Canister Purge Valve / Solenoid

So I am stuck. I don't have enough engine codes to say what else to replace.

 

Has your fuel light flashed at all?
I had an evap leak code and it was my gas cap. I don't know if that would contribute to your problem though.
You could try putting some silicon grease on the rubber gas cap seal and see if the code goes away.
Just a thought.

 

Maybe a long shot but before I knew about water destroying the clp/ssm, my car would stall occasionally at idle and hesitate from idle. Took it to a mechanic, and he checked the battery current draw, it was amps - he traced it to the CLP being in a foot of water. I replaced the CLP and about a foot or two of harness behind the connector. Maybe check the area around the CLP in the trunk for water and buy a usb adapter with voltage meter for your cigarette lighter (they're really handy - when you turn your key to start, you can see your battery voltage at start and while it's running). If you're still hunting for the issue, maybe check the current draw (even if the CLP is good). If you have a battery charger, you can check the draw without loosing the cpu memory - just put the battery charger on the battery cables, loosen and remove the neg cable while the battery charger neg. cable is still attached, then put your ammeter between the battery cable and the battery terminal, remove the neg charger cable and measure the current draw. Reclamp the battery charger to the battery cable, remove the ammeter, reconnect the cable to the battery.
-Jerry

 

The fuel pressure drop is a little higher than I would expect for 45 minutes. It makes a difference with a warm engine and hood down will maintain higher pressures; With hood open and a cool engine your pressure drop may be normal. With my car when engine running I get 55~56 lbs pressure. When engine is shut off pressure immediately drops to 51 lbs: After a hour it drops another 15lbs to 36 with a hot engine.

Needswings has a good price on accelerator pedal. I really think you should get a new pedal to, hopefully repair the hesitation at idle.

The P0435 code is a simple circuit to deal with as only three wires run between the pressure sensor in the fuel tank to the PTCM. However, it is a pain to get the plastic divider off the fuel tank to get to those wires. As M60Adriver suggested before trouble shooting that code you should get a new gas cap. The caps are double pressure relief as they allow both high pressure and vacuum to normalize through the cap. We are talking like 0.5 lbs. of pressure so it isn't much. So before messing with wiring I think it is best to first replace the accelerator pedal and the gas cap.

PS. You talked about the siren draining on your battery. You should at the minimum disconnect the siren at it's connection under the windshield cowl to stop that battery drain.

 

Here's the link to my Alarm replacement/removal & drain cleaning post hopefully that will be helpful if you replace or remove the alarm.

 

Thanks @M60A3Driver I need to follow that and get that alarm out of my car. Alarm is the Battery Killer (dune reference).

I have not gotten back to my car between frustration, schedule, and life. I moved my cars around and started working on it again yesterday. I want it running. At lunch I fired it up and got the right settings for my computer to talk to the ECU. It finally idled and did not shut down. After work I did much more testing. I did drive it around and got the hesitation twice. One of the theories put forward is the accelerator pedal. Here are some screen shots of the output values at idle and at 2500 RPM.


pedal at idle


pedal at 2500 RPM

Tonight I plan to let it idle and burn off some of the gas in car that has been setting and check the warm up conditions. I wonder if I had a batch of bad gas or possible water.

 

You might want to add something like Iso Heet or Sea Foam to your gas on your next fill up.
Here's an article that compares some of the leading brands and has links to them: LINK to water removers for gas

 

Good suggestion. I will be doing an oil change this weekend and I will put a can in. I need to remove the damn alarm module.
@M60A3Driver You bought a replacement one (not cheap) and I am curious as to why? Currently I don't see any contravisory in removing it.

Last night I let it Idle for 30 minutes. After my dance lesson with my GF, we took for a drive and filled up on gas. I went around the block a few times and punched the accelerator and few times resulting in "OH MY GOD" from the right seat. It felt good getting my crossfire up to speed.

 

There's no problem if you want to remove it. It won't affect the car at all. I replaced mine because I'm an original type of guy, I like my cars to be as close to stock as possible. I also like the fact that it chirps when I lock it.
It sounds like your getting rid of that bad gas out of the car. I'll bet you had a big smile on your face when you were hammering the go pedal!
If you're not going to drive your car for a long period of time fill the tank so there's less chance of condensation building up. I used to do that with my Harley every winter or I would run it dry.

 

Latest updates, I have been driving it a bit and I am noticing that the hesitation seems to be around the same RPM (1800) or possibly pedal position. This is going back to the early possible suggestion replacing accelerator pedal. My scanner is not fast enough to catch a drop out in position. I am going to buy a used pedal and see how it works. Not sure if it's a potentiometer or a hall effect sensor. I do know there are two read values with different ranges (see above picture from scanner).

I will be removing the alarm this weekend as I got a wiper pull tool. Yesterday I did some driving and got one big hesitation, otherwise it was fine. Here is a picture from **** Dance last night at our local VFW.


Backlit from the setting sun.

 

Everybody! I finally have a "FIX" for my acceleration issue. As it turns out the P0453 Evaporative Emission Control System Pressure Sensor High Input code was significant. I was talking to my boss and he used to turn wrenches for a GM dealer. We talked through the problem. I had mentioned that I had a high pressure in the gas tank. It's important to understand how the evaporative pressure is handled. There is a valve that opens up and sucks the gas vapors from the charcoal tank. While the valve is open, the system tests for a vacuum or low pressure at the gas tank sender. Here is a schematic of the Evaporative leak system.

[img alt="Evap System
"]https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.crossfireforum.org-vbulletin/830x554/crossfire_evaporative_system_e970c87bd63c2b7bba6b5 1ef9743b7071a8a10b0.jpg[/img]
Evap System

There is a hose that goes to item 11, Evap Purge Solenoid from the vacuum intake at the throttle body. I had replaced that recently. There is a hose from there to the charcoal canister item 12. So when I was accelerating , that valve will open up and I will get a jerk or a hesitation. At idle the car would shut off when the valve open. So how do I know this? I removed the line from the Evap Purge Solenoid and plugged it. I used a end of a bottle brush I had cut off. See picture. Since then I had not a single issue. The car works wonderfully. Now having said that I still have a code and engine light. I will start a new thread.


My cheat code fix for my acceleration issue.



If the line was damanged or compromised in some way, when the valve