So I'm having this weird electrical issue. I noticed the car was getting a little bit hot, doing an inspection and realize that the fan is not spinning at all.

On closer inspection, I realize the black and blue wire that go to the fans connector are now fused together.

I separate the two wires all the way down and just rewrap with black electrical tape. The car's fine the fan turns back on then all of a sudden the car just shuts off.

The car won't start again until about 10 minutes past and I disconnect the battery. After just trying to move the car to put in the parking space so I can work on it another day. The car first turns on the BAS/ESP light, while driving then all the lights come on and the car shut offs.

So besides of course replacing this fan do I need to replace the RCM maybe even the body control module?

Can you guys point me in the right direction, thank you in advance trust me without you guys the car wouldn't have made it 300,000 miles

 

Does the car run until it gets hot, then shuts off?
If so that might be the crank position sensor. They fail after they get hot.
That would be the cheapest thing to replace. Use a BOSCH cps, part number is: 0 261 210 170

 

No, the car runs for more than maybe 1-2 min. Then all the lights go dark and the car shuts off

 

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There seems to be a basic issue that needs to be found first that is causing the car to shut down (unrelated to the fan wiring overheating) that must be the priority to solve. You have to get any codes read and listed here to help members help you. If no codes are found, find a code reader that will read a 2004 MB SLK-320 (maybe an independent MB mechanic with SLK-320 experience, you may have to pay for the reading of codes).. You may still need to get a more detailed code reader if some generic code reader finds some codes. Post any codes back here before taking it to someone to work on the car. Do not take the car to any Chrysler or Mercedes dealership. Sounds like you have some researching and work to be done with this issue before a more focused help can be accomplished. Good luck!


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I have autel 808 so I should be able to check the codes, I'll let you know the results as soon as I get them.

 

A black and blue wire to WHAT fan's connector? The engine cooling fan or the HVAC fan?
Can you provide a picture?

My car's engine fan has these going from the Fan Controller to the engine cooling fan:
Brown/Black: + to fan motor
Black/Green: - to fan motor

Fan controller input power:
Black: + to to 50 amp fuse
Brown: - to chassis ground

Fan controller to ECU:
Gray: Bidirectional control signal

I am not going to spew any answers until I am sure what wires we are talking about. Even if the Fan module/fan motor wiring is bad, it won't stop the car from running UNLESS you overheat the engine badly - in which case a rebuild of the engine or a replacement engine is the answer - but it does not sound that bad if the stared back up.

 

No the engine did not overheat, it got a little bit to passed medium line, and was shut down immediately.

The wires I'm talking about were to the fan connector (the one attached to the radiator, I'll include a picture)


What's happening tonight is it's weird it's like there's no lights whatsoever almost like the battery has been drained all the way down.

No headlights, no interior lights, etc and I checked the battery it's showing 12 volts

 

UPDATE: One of the cables to the positive side of the battery was sheared off, weirdest thing I've ever seen it was like a clean break


I'm just going to buy one of those battery terminal kits and reattach the wire. I'll let you guys know what happens next

 

Hope the intermittent shorting did not damage any electronics.

 

That is a horrible idea. Buy a complete, welded, new, cable assembly.
You are really setting yourself up for disaster, in the form of a damaged SKREEM, PTCM, ECU, etc.

It is painful to watch someone makes mistakes like this.

 

Anything not damaged so far will be damaged once he/she puts on one of this horrible $3.95 battery cable clamps, when the resulting resistance (and corrosion/dirt) sets in, To say nothing of the inductive kick of the starter as well as the ripple from the alternator, both of which will send surges thru the 200 amp feed to the electrical system.

This is hard to watch...................

 

Is it possible that was a corrosion issue with that cable? I agree with getting a new complete cable from a genuine cable designed for the MB SLK-320 (which is about all parts with the drivetrain including electrical distribution and grounding. I have NEVER seen damage like this, another thought it could have been someone intentionally damaging the cable? My two older vehicles (2001 & 2002 Ford and Chevy) I would say OK to a clamping kit and a watchful eye over the months/years for corrosion BUT with these cars electrical systems components, they are way too sensitive to any electrical episodes. Good luck!


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Thank you for the concern I really do appreciate it, you could buy the whole positive cable for like $35-$50 on eBay probably even cheaper at a pick apart yard.

But yeah if somebody's in a jam and they just need to use one of those terminal things temporarily just to move the vehicle it shouldn't be a problem.

The Skreem you mentioned, I think everybody by now should have went to either Mercedes swap shop or needs wings and got that addressed because it's not a matter of if, it's a matter of when.

All that being said if you have a solid method of testing that fan module on the side of the engine let me know

 

I agree with you a thousand percent if this was a pristine example of a crossfire or my SRT6 (Lord knows I'd break into Mercedes front door the Wake the CEO up and have him make me a wire lol)

But this car without exaggeration my friend is like 270k plus miles and literally amalgamation of parts of various other crossfires including a whole rear quarter panel from another car. Also the car is missing that whole rear pneumatic module.

It's my daily driver it helps me enjoy a Crossfire 24/7 that I can park anywhere not worry about it too much.

But yes again if I get myself another pristine Crossfire we would going to go a whole different road, but I am going to heed the advice and definitely just buy the cable from eBay

I asked the other commenter the same question do you have a solid way of testing that fan module the one by the headlight?

 

Based on a fourty year career in component-level electronics with an emphasis the first 28 years on automotive electronics, I disagree. It takes ONE heavy spike on the 12 volt feed to destroy a module(s). In 2016, I went to put up my top with the engine not running, the spike in the system from that big motor in the pump cutting out JUST ONCE, took out my airbag module.
What do you base your "Should" statement on?

First, that is one module, there are many others. Second, if the SKREEM fails, even with the "SKREEM delete", you are still going to have an issue. The "SKREEM delete" is not a total delete, it's just a mod that makes the ECU not ask the SKREEM for permission to start. You still would have no remote lock/unlock.

Easy.
1) With a cold engine, start car with A/C off. Fan must not run.
2) Turn A/C on, fan should run slow, about 100 rpm. Fan must run slowly.
2A) Turn the A/C off and observe that the fan stops. (Engine must be COLD, needle must be well below 1/2 mark for steps 1 and 2.)

Now do either 3 or 4:
3) Let engine heat, when temp needed gets to just above 1/2, the fan should start moving and speed up such that the needle never moves past the mark that the fan started moving.

4) Find the little gray wire going into the FCM, this is the bi-directional data line to the ECU.
4A) Cut the gray wire with wire cutters.
4B) These two things must happen:
.... The little "Radiator light" on the instrument panel comes on.
... THe fan, in about 15 seconds, ramps up to "warp speed" so fast and loud people look and wonder what you are doing.

If all the above happens, the module is fine. Until you cut the gray wire, the radiator light should not come on.

5A) Shut engine/key off.
5B) Using wire strippers and a "pink/red butt splice", splice the gray wire back together.
5C) Start engine.
5D) The radiator light" should not come on, and the fan should should not run unless the engine has heated up to about 1/2.

If all the above checks out, the FCM (Fan Control Module) is fine.

 

Thank you for all the advice and I definitely, will heed your warning, by no means I'd want you to think that I was questioning it. You are a 100% right about a spike in voltage. But in this Crossfire, I think every airbag was deployed except for the steering wheel one (very difficult to find a cedar-colored one) and the passenger side is deactivated with the key in the side of the door (so I'll never have to replace the dash). Also the other module that you mentioned I believe the one in the trunk for the pneumatic system and the convertible roof was water damaged I pieced together a board I never got it working right so I just lower the top manually every once in awhile.

I was just experimenting a little bit just to get the car into a more secure area so I could work on the rest comfortably.

I'm going to do the test that you said with the gray wire. I found a fan control module really cheap for like 30 something bucks free shipping and a new fan for 90 bucks.

When I change all that out I'll let you guys know the results.

Thank you again for all the time, the effort and the solid advice I truly do appreciate it.

 

Hi and thanks for the more detailed description of the condition of the car

I ust updated my reply, as I seen pizzaguys replies after yours that I was responding to. Good luck narrowing down your gremlins, maybe finding the fan module damaged, or moving on to the next one until you find the culprit!

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I have thought of having an additional Crossfire just for that reason.....

 

I thank you guys, the other members of the forum too. We all really did become a part of a tight-knit community and made the crossfirey issues a lot less scary.

Oh boy do I remember my first one, the dreaded sticky key, for that time when the RCM caused the car to shut off on the middle of the freeway going 70 miles an hour 😂

 

You definitely should pick up another one especially if you can get it cheap at copart or a random online auction. That way you can do whatever you want modification wise/color and truly enjoy a daily driven Crossfire with no worry of ruining a future classic

I'm always on the lookout for a decent Crossfire change up the colors every once in awhile, make sure the one I'm getting rid of is mechanically sound. (RCM soldering and a fresh crank position sensor). So the next owner could be relatively headache free outside of the possible Skreem issue... And if the sticky key annoys me enough I'll fix it. So I guess that's on the house too lol

However I'm always cool with people that are run into that are selling a crossfire really cheap and I always try to offer them advice on how to get out of their Crossfire related problem. Because I truly do believe in karma, I don't want ever win off of somebody's misfortune/lack of knowledge.

But man the one time I did not take it serious there was an srt-6 with faded paint in, I want to say, Riverside county California the guy was letting it go for $600. He told me he thought the car went bad because he used e85 or something fuel related. I don't know why I wasn't more aggressive with pursuing that one.

Anyway long story short, when the guy finally got back to me do you know what the issue was... The alternator.

I'm definitely have to go through my screenshots so you guys can see the post on OfferUp 😂