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Troubleshooting & Technical Questions & ModificationsHave technical or modification questions about the Crossfire?
Find out the answer, or give advice in here!
Well, I swapped out the RCM today and no change. Spoiler still partially works every other ignition cycle.
I will now look at brake controller and scanner options.
Well, all, here’s the latest…..sometime back, I found a micro switch for the spoiler pulled apart and hanging free. I put it back together and determined that it made no difference in spoiler operation. I was unsure if the switch was complete.
Today, I tested both micro switches and determined the lower switch is non-functional. I have to assume this at least a part of my problem.
So…now comes the classic question: where can I obtain a replacement micro switch? It is marked “serie 193”
Well, all, here’s the latest…..sometime back, I found a micro switch for the spoiler pulled apart and hanging free. I put it back together and determined that it made no difference in spoiler operation. I was unsure if the switch was complete.
Today, I tested both micro switches and determined the lower switch is non-functional. I have to assume this at least a part of my problem.
So…now comes the classic question: where can I obtain a replacement micro switch? It is marked “serie 193”
Paul
Hi Paul,
you can try this place: DigiKey Electronics
They have a ton of micro-switches. If you can't find it, contact their customer service department.
Good luck,
John
Damn, I was just about to reply that my spoiler acted up ie it would go up at speed but not come down on its own. I took the cover off and found the micro switch on the left side had fallen out of place. I glued it back in and it appears to be all set.
Well, all, after much fussing and purchasing of electronic modules ending in “CM”, I decided to focus on the limit switch (lower) which I determined was faulty. I looked at limit switches on Amazon and selected one by eyeball only that seemed proximately the same as the faulty one on the crossfire. When it arrived, it was slightly larger than OEM, but close enough to fit within the SFF (Standard Fudge Factor) provided by Mercedes.
It was a 3 wire switch allowing for both NO and NC circuits but some quick research on this forum confirmed it should be wired NO. I wired in the switch, secured it with a drop of Gorilla Glue, and Voila!, I had a working spoiler. It even beeps when I lower it with the console override. Best yet, it raised at 62 mph and lowered at 39 mph. That has never happened before.
Now, everything I have blabbered about here was covered by another member a few years back. He included several very good pictures.
Well, all, after much fussing and purchasing of electronic modules ending in “CM”, I decided to focus on the limit switch (lower) which I determined was faulty. I looked at limit switches on Amazon and selected one by eyeball only that seemed proximately the same as the faulty one on the crossfire. When it arrived, it was slightly larger than OEM, but close enough to fit within the SFF (Standard Fudge Factor) provided by Mercedes.
It was a 3 wire switch allowing for both NO and NC circuits but some quick research on this forum confirmed it should be wired NO. I wired in the switch, secured it with a drop of Gorilla Glue, and Voila!, I had a working spoiler. It even beeps when I lower it with the console override. Best yet, it raised at 62 mph and lowered at 39 mph. That has never happened before.
Now, everything I have blabbered about here was covered by another member a few years back. He included several very good pictures.
Many thanks to all of you.
Thank you for the update and I'm glad that you have resolved the problem!
Well, all, after much fussing and purchasing of electronic modules ending in “CM”, I decided to focus on the limit switch (lower) which I determined was faulty. I looked at limit switches on Amazon and selected one by eyeball only that seemed proximately the same as the faulty one on the crossfire. When it arrived, it was slightly larger than OEM, but close enough to fit within the SFF (Standard Fudge Factor) provided by Mercedes.
It was a 3 wire switch allowing for both NO and NC circuits but some quick research on this forum confirmed it should be wired NO. I wired in the switch, secured it with a drop of Gorilla Glue, and Voila!, I had a working spoiler. It even beeps when I lower it with the console override. Best yet, it raised at 62 mph and lowered at 39 mph. That has never happened before.
Now, everything I have blabbered about here was covered by another member a few years back. He included several very good pictures.
Many thanks to all of you.
Could you please post manufacturer and part number for future reference. Thanks
Well, all, after much fussing and purchasing of electronic modules ending in “CM”, I decided to focus on the limit switch (lower) which I determined was faulty. I looked at limit switches on Amazon and selected one by eyeball only that seemed proximately the same as the faulty one on the crossfire. When it arrived, it was slightly larger than OEM, but close enough to fit within the SFF (Standard Fudge Factor) provided by Mercedes.
It was a 3 wire switch allowing for both NO and NC circuits but some quick research on this forum confirmed it should be wired NO. I wired in the switch, secured it with a drop of Gorilla Glue, and Voila!, I had a working spoiler. It even beeps when I lower it with the console override. Best yet, it raised at 62 mph and lowered at 39 mph. That has never happened before.
Now, everything I have blabbered about here was covered by another member a few years back. He included several very good pictures.
Many thanks to all of you.
Im surprised you found one on Amazon, for that stuff, I go to Mouser or Digikey. Amazon can surprise us at times......
Here is some more info regarding the micro limit switch replacement. Refer to the pics below of my old defective switch lying next to one of the two switches I bought from the Amazonians.
The new switch has three wires, the old switch had two. Connect black to black (just about always, right?), Then connect the gray wire from the old switch to the blue wire of the new switch. You can snip off the red wire or coil it up.
Put your spoiler wing in the down position by whatever means and place the new switch in position on the bracket so that the roller on the end of the lever touches the raised cam on the right side of the drive gear. Slide the switch toward the cam until the button is depressed on the switch. Hint: it takes very little pressure to activate the switch. Now mark the position of the switch on the bracket.
Put a drop of your favorite high performance adhesive on the back of the switch and glue it in place. When in position, wires on original exit to the right, wires on replacement exit down.