I think it was onehundred that said the 07's don't have this issue. You would think if they finally corrected the problem that "new" ignitions would be corrected already?

 

I just replaced mine with a unit I ordered directly though M.B., it was identical to my 04 unit I removed. I took out the spring and pin in my new one.

 

Interesting...I read this thread and don't recall that post. If this is true, there's a chance that the new unit I installed has been modified to solve the problem. I can't imagine MB doing nothing about this considering that this part has been used in many Mercedes vehicles in addition to the Crossfire. However, I noticed that the new unit I installed (bought in June of 2014) was exactly the same (same part no. etc.) as the one I took out. I would think that an upgraded version would be marked as such in some way.

 

Confirmation the new replacement parts still need the mod done to them.

 

At one of our maintenance day get togethers here in Michigan is when we discovered the '07's didn't have the pin.

 

Let us know what you find..... Seems someone said it looked like the internal pin kept the external push pin from pushing in.

 

A2024600904 is the part number from the box, the pin and spring came out just like the ignition that came on my 04 Crossfire. I replaced mine cause the tumbler went bad, I didn't want to risk using the old unit, so I replaced everything.

 

Reality check! OK, really, do you think 'Chrysler' would fix stock shelved parts before selling them off the shelf? Now I personally think they MIGHT install 'modified' assemblies on an assembly line. BUT, does it pass a reasonable 'reality check'? It is possible, isn't it?

 

If the '07s had modified ignition lock units installed at the factory, isn't there a possibility that an ignition lock unit bought from a dealer in 2014 may have come from the batch used for the 2007 production run?

 

Anything within reason is possible, we ARE talking about Chrysler though. So, to answer your question, yes, it is possible.

 

If the part was modified then the part number should indicate that change, the part number would originally be XXXXXXXAA and the modified part would be XXXXXXXAB etc.
If you ask for the original part you may get it but you should be told that part is obsolete and replaced by the newer numbered part, I say should be.

 

Hi all! I have just had my car towed because of this problem, I've been looking through the posts but I can't find the PDF or see the photos.
Do any off you know where i can find it?

Thanks in advance!

 

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...key_fix_v5.pdf

 

Thank you!!!

 

After 9 years of ownership finally got around to doing the sticky ignition switch mod. Thanks to all that contributed to the instructions.

 

Souinds like something I'll be wanting to do to both of my Crossfires in the near future. The '04 Coupe I just acquired (with 72,000 miles on the clock) came with a bunch of service records and, well, I'm sure the previous owners would have loved to have known about this forum:

March 21 of this year (2000 miles ago) they paid a grand total of $1259.61 to have this repair done. $745 in parts, $454 in labor. Holy Moley!!!!


Yep, I'm doing this to both cars even though my 2005 Roadster (of which I am the original owner) has but 26,000 miles on her.

To all who have contributed, a huge thank you!! (yes, I've downloaded the latest version of the instructions - as well as all previous versions, just to see what's changed from one to the next - as well as permalinked some other great tips along the way.)

 

A dodge dealer in KC said they that would charge approximately $1700.00 change the "Sticky Key" thing by replacing the switch with an new ignition switch! If an old guy like me can bend under to to it, granted it took me 3 or 4 hours, (I'm slow), any of you younger enthusiasts can do it. Just take your time. And stay away from Dodge dealers... or at least Gladstone Dodge for prices.

 

First car you do is 2-3 hours, second car 1-1.5 hours, then about 1 hour thereafter. It's a learning curve thing.

 

I'm having this issue as well. My key will not turn into the 1 position, and my steering wheel locked up from my efforts. Thanks to everyone that's posted guides, pics, and fix info.


I've got all my panels removed, and I've drilled a healthy chunk out of the (*******) locking pin. It is still there, however it's now around midnight and I think my neighbors would like to stop listening to the sweet sounds of my drill. I've got it to the point that I can turn the key enough to release the wheel lock, but I still can't get the key into the 1 spot. Any thoughts on that? Is it perhaps that I simply haven't eliminated the pin completely yet? I can't work on it right now so the only thing I have to do right now is stress over it.

 

We removed the assembly to take out the pin and spring ......but can not figure out how to get the assembly back in. Can someone please help us.