The assembly fits into the assembly housing (the bracket that holds the assembly) at an angle. You'll need to put the assembly into that bracket with the key facing more toward a 70-90 degree angle with the dash - the assembly slides into the housing at that angle, then you twist it down, counter-clockwise, so that the keyhole is facing as it normally would. That locks the assembly in place. This is how I remember doing it, anyway, as I remember the assembly had to be twisted clockwise to remove it. Hope this helps.

 

You probably haven't drilled the pin out far enough to remove the assembly. Keep drilling that pin until you can pull the assembly out and remove the spring and pin from the assembly. After that the key will move freely.

 

Orginally Posted by breakneck
The assembly fits into the assembly housing (the bracket that holds the assembly) at an angle. You'll need to put the assembly into that bracket with the key facing more toward a 70-90 degree angle with the dash - the assembly slides into the housing at that angle, then you twist it down, counter-clockwise, so that the keyhole is facing as it normally would. That locks the assembly in place. This is how I remember doing it, anyway, as I remember the assembly had to be twisted clockwise to remove it. Hope this helps.

Thanks for your response breakneck. We tried it and it does not go in more than an inch. It just stops right at the pin and the pin is depressed. We are in Southern California and in the Inland Empire. I am curious if anyone else had this problem? If there is anyone in the area with installation experience, we would really appreciate assistance as we have been working on this since yesterday. Thanks in advance for your assistance and thanks to everyone who provided assistance with the PDF file to show us how to remove the assembly, pin and spring.

 

Thanks for your response breakneck. Note that I am new to this so please forgive me while or if I am messing up trying to post threads etc. Also, we tried reinstalling the assembly and it does not go in more than an inch. It just stops right at the pin and the pin is depressed. We are in Southern California and in the Inland Empire. I am curious if anyone else had this problem? If there is anyone in the area with installation experience, we would really appreciate assistance as we have been working on this since yesterday. Thanks in advance for your assistance and thanks to everyone who provided assistance with the PDF file to show us how to remove the assembly, pin and spring.

 

So you've removed the assembly, taken the pin and spring out, and you're trying to put the assembly back in, right?

 

That is correct.

 

Thanks for your assistance breakneck. We did it and the car is running. I really should not take the credit as I only read the instructions and typed the questions, while he did the work. Though, he is giving me credit too.

 

Completed the fix and the key turns great. Thanks for all the instructions and pictures. The issue I now have is the key warning buzzer stays on after I remove the key. I read all the posts and noticed a couple others had the same issue. Was there any clear cut solution to this issue? Thanks.

 

I did all the steps and put it back together but now it won't start. I can hear it clicking when I turn the key but it just won't start the engine. Any suggestions?

 

Make sure the plug on the back of the ignition switch is really on there good, and check to be sure the wires are plugged into the ring that surrounds the key - this is an antenna for communicating with the chip in the key itself.

 

There is a switch in the assembly that, once you pull the key out, a springloaded actuator toggles the little switch that indicates to the system that you have removed the key. Sounds like it is hung up OR the wiring to the switch assembly is not seated well on the back of the switch.

 

Just to be certain, it was starting ok before you did this mod correct?

 

As others have said, check the alignment of your security ring. If it is misaligned you won't be able to engage the ignition. Good luck!

 

Yes it was starting okay before I did the mod. I can turn the key like butter now but it only clicks but don't start the engine.

 

Just wanted to thank everyone that contributed to this fix!! My 2004 Crossfire was trapped in a parking lot overnight. I read everything twice and printed out the pictures, then I followed the instructions for the reusing the original equipment and in one hour and fifteen minutes was all set and on my way!

 

How about the white connector and the black connector on the bottom, are they on and tight?

 

Thanks for all the help. Got it to work. I also replace my corroded negative battery cable and then it started up.

 

My thanks to everyone who contributed to this fix. Mine locked up 3 days ago. My neighbor came over today after work and we tackled the fix. Took a little over 2 hours but now all is well. My 72 year old arthritic hands will never be the same. I barley have the strength in my left knee to push in the clutch, but I still get scratch when I hit 2nd gear.
Again, my thanks to all.

 

Does anyone understand why the switch fails? Are any steps needed to prevent re-occurrence? Thanks. blacktouring

 

Has anyone had a problem with the car not starting after the fix?

My issue:

Before buttoning everything back up I reconnected my battery to do a test fire. Turning the key on all the electrical seems to work but the car won't fire. It half way fired once, but that was about it. Also, all of my idiot lights stay on, so there is a problem somewhere. Anyone else run into something similar?

What I did:

I was still able to get my switch to the number one position, so removed the entire lock assembly as per the great PDF instructions.

I removed the spring and pin and the reinstalled the little metal door. While I had the assembly out I purchased a new switch (202 545 01 04). I installed the new switch and reinstalled the assembly. It took a little finesse to get the angle right to go back into the steering column but eventually slid right in.

After tightening the 10mm bolt on the bracket, I reconnected the switch harness on the back of the unit and reconnected the buzzer wire. I have the 6 speed so no black wire to the trans. I reinstalled the key and tumbler unit and the black retainer.

Possible issues:

1. Now that I think about it, I did not have the black retaining ring (the one with the black wire) installed. It was hanging off to the side. Could this have been the issue?

2. Also it took a few days to get the new part so the battery was disconnected for about 4 days. Could having the battery disconnected that long cause an issue? Is there a reset I need to do? It's a new battery, so I know that's not the issue.

3. The last thing I thought about trying was reinstalling the old switch unit (the one that plugs into the wiring harness).

Any thoughts and suggestions would be appreciated.