If the ignition unit is going to be reused by removing the locking pin, does the key cylinder have to be removed? My key still rotates the cylinder and I can't see any reason after reading and re-reading the instructions that it would be required. It seems that would save me the step of removing the black retainer for the key cylinder.

But maybe I'm missing something.

EDIT: I found my answer in Post #802. This section should be added to the PDF instructions. It seems it would eliminate a lot of headaches. I see complaints about removing the black retaining ring.

 

I ran into this problem yesterday, thank you so much for the detailed guide. One wrinkle I ran into is that the wire from the RFID antenna (key ring) accidentally became disconnected from the SKREEM. Needless to say, I was initally confused when the car would turn over and then die, then not start after three tries.

The solution was to disconnect the battery, remove the lower trim and instrument cluster by removing the trim and 4 screws that hold it in place, reconnect the antenna, then put everything back together and reconnect the battery. The better solution would be to make a note to not dislodge the RFID in the process.

All said, it was a pretty easy process and only took about 3 hours even with my hiccup. I highly recommend people use a ratcheting right angle screw driver, it makes those tight spaces a breeze.

 

I finished this job this weekend without removing the black retaining ring (because my key still worked). Thanks to the KDW4Him for instructions in post #802. That saved me a lot of unnecessary work.

 

2017 and you're still saving people all around the world a lot of trouble. Thank you so much for the fix and greetings from germany

 

Oddly enough, we have some members/new owners here in the states that have said, "I prefer to have it done right, I took it to the dealer and they fixed it "right" for $850.'

What can you do?

 

An hour an a half of work , SAVE $850 , buy a pizza an call it a day!

 

There is nothing you can do. I have found you just cannot save some people a lot of money. Just have to literally 'grin' and bear it.

.

 

HELP!!! I did the fix but I can't get the ignition back in. Please help.

 

If you are talking about the key cylinder, you need to have the key in the cylinder. The key needs to be fully inserted into the cylinder then clock the key to the same position it was in when you removed the key assembly. I had this same problem but it has been 2 years since I did this. Be sure to reread the instruction to double check.

 

in error. N post.

 

When I removed the key assembly, after grinding off the pin, I did not have a key in the ignition. I've tried putting the assembly in with the key inserted and turned to the 1st position but the space is too tight to reattach the assembly. Any idea how to hero the key in the ignition while installing the assembly?

 

I've tried everything but the assembly will not go back in.

 

So it appears you are having a problem getting the ignition into the collar, not the tumblers into the ignition. Also you do not appear to have the band clamp in place before installing the ignition into the steering column collar you should do that. I wish I had your answer, but I am having the same problem, and I came here looking for a solution.

I do not think you need the tumblers in the ignition for install , just know how they fit in before install. Now to the problem! I cannot get the damn ignition module back into the collar. It only goes in to the pin, and when I press the pin in it still will not sink into the collar any further. Any advise for the both of us?

 

OK just put some dielectric grease or white lithium on the barrel before you insert in to the collar and jiggle. not allot,
just a little, and the tumbler hole should be almost vertical. The tumbler assembly and key can be installed after you put the clamp and electrical connections back on

 

I just finished fixing my sticky key problem, using this thread and the PDF. The instructions in the PDF are accurate and easy to follow. Well done!

 

I was able to get the assembly into the collar by applying WD-40 to the assembly arm before inserting it into the collar. Oh yeah... and MUSCLE!
The problem I'm having now is the car will not start after certain periods of being driven. It appears it may be the starter. I checked the assembly and all its parts to ensure everything is connected. It looks good.

 

Do the exact reverse order of the PDF to reassemble. I never took the tumblers out of mine, I did two of them that way.

Just to be certain you removed this spring and pin under the back cover?



IMG 1640 crop

 

Shortcut, this made the procedure a little easier for me. There is a risk of FOB damage if you are not careful but the risk VS reward of not having to take the tumblers out was good by me.

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...tml#post832818

 

I recently did two of these and I found the instructions to be fantastic, and very helpful. I do have a couple of ideas to add that could help out future people with this endeavor.


Tools: You do need a box end or open end 10mm wrench to undo the screw on the band clamp that lockers in the ignition module.
A regular Phillips head screwdriver works for most screws, but you either need a stubby or offset screwdriver for the two screws holding the cover under the steering column (in #4). A power drill really just gets in the way, so don't bother.
A small gooseneck pliers to remove the tumbler barrel (10) and also to remove the main electric harness connector (13). I will explain below.
A milk crate! This is fantastic for any under dash procedures, as they are about the same height as the rocker panels of most cars. Sitting on it, and placing it next to the rocker panel to make a bench is so much better than kneeling outside the car and breaking your back to lean under the dashboard. I put the cushions form the patio furniture on the milk crate and the rocker panel too, and this makes a very comfortable bench to lay on to see under the dashboard. Try it!


I ran into two issues. First, getting my big hands behind the ignition module to push the main electric harness connector (13) off of the ignition module. I found the small gooseneck wrench fit under the dash, and fit over the verticals flange that is on the back of the main electric harness connector (13). I could then just wiggle the handles while pushing back and it came right off. Also the small gooseneck wrench is better for removing the tumbler barrel than bulky vise grips.


Second, after using a Flathead screwdriver and hammer to open the pin hatch (lengthwise) and then close it too (it helps to have a table vise and some blocks of wood to hold the ignition module steady during this process, or a friend with vise grips). I found that the repaired ignition module did not want to slide back into the collar, and I found no mention of this anywhere in the internets. Oddly on the same day someone else here also had the same problem, so I wasn't going crazy, the solution was a bit of white lithium grease, or dielectric grease, or he used WD-40 on the barrel that slides into the steering column yoke. Just a little works, perhaps as these are aging this is becoming a new problem.


That's my Dos Centavos on this subject, and my thanks to all the authors of this thread for saving me and us so much money and angst by supplying this great tutorial.

 

I have done two of them this way. I saw too many posts where people had "issues" with the tumblers and wanted a shortcut if possible. I am glad the shortcut worked for you.

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...tml#post832818