Sticky Ignition Key Fix for all Crossfires 2004 thru 2006
I really appreciate this fix advice. For some reason, I cannot view your photos, which would be helpful. Any reason for this? I just see blank boxes. I want to eliminate the column locking pin completely.
Also, after this procedure is done, is there a chance of the column locking while under-way?
Also, after this procedure is done, is there a chance of the column locking while under-way?
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Link to post with picture tutorial of Sticky Ignition Fix
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...tml#post504963
Link to post with picture tutorial of Sticky Ignition Fix
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...tml#post504963
Last edited by rekcah; Aug 10, 2010 at 04:50 PM.
If you're talking about the modification (PERMANENT) fix, it's a piece of cake once you've done it
but that's not much help is it? If you have to drill out your ignition pin make sure to use an extra hard drill bit or one you don't care about (or a dremel with grinder as some people claim).
I tried to figure out the effects and risks of removing the pin and spring from the ignition having the fear you described of the wheel locking unexpectedly. All ingenuity points to the pin having the opposite purpose. It looks like the pin is a redundant lock on the steering wheel to make sure the steering CANNOT be unlocked (say by a thief). The key/tumbler itself - not the problematic pin and spring - seems to hold the locking mechanism out of the steering column. Nobody here has reported a problem since.
Mine has been fixed for about a year now and works like a charm.
Good luck.
but that's not much help is it? If you have to drill out your ignition pin make sure to use an extra hard drill bit or one you don't care about (or a dremel with grinder as some people claim).I tried to figure out the effects and risks of removing the pin and spring from the ignition having the fear you described of the wheel locking unexpectedly. All ingenuity points to the pin having the opposite purpose. It looks like the pin is a redundant lock on the steering wheel to make sure the steering CANNOT be unlocked (say by a thief). The key/tumbler itself - not the problematic pin and spring - seems to hold the locking mechanism out of the steering column. Nobody here has reported a problem since.
Mine has been fixed for about a year now and works like a charm.
Good luck.
Originally Posted by rekcah
please read the whole post. everything you want to know has been discussed many times in this thread. read, read, read, read, read, read, read, read, read, read, read, read, read, read, read , read, read, read.
if one more person asks about the pictures, I will take down my pdf file and unsubscribe to this topic and not help anyone concerning this matter. Thank You
if one more person asks about the pictures, I will take down my pdf file and unsubscribe to this topic and not help anyone concerning this matter. Thank You
xxxxxxxxxx deleted xxxxxxxxxx
Link to post with picture tutorial of Sticky Ignition Fix
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...tml#post504963
Link to post with picture tutorial of Sticky Ignition Fix
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...tml#post504963
Last edited by rekcah; Aug 10, 2010 at 04:50 PM.
Rekcah,
Thanks for the post. You saved us all at least $1k. I was getting irritated at looking stupid when I'd try to start the car but instead sat there hitting the steering wheel.
I just removed the locking pin and everything works perfectly. Fix took no more than 2 hours. No drilling required either.
Thanks for the post. You saved us all at least $1k. I was getting irritated at looking stupid when I'd try to start the car but instead sat there hitting the steering wheel.
I just removed the locking pin and everything works perfectly. Fix took no more than 2 hours. No drilling required either.
Last edited by edgehead2000; Jun 25, 2010 at 04:07 PM.
Originally Posted by rekcah
please read the whole post. everything you want to know has been discussed many times in this thread. read, read, read, read, read, read, read, read, read, read, read, read, read, read, read , read, read, read.
if one more person asks about the pictures, I will take down my pdf file and unsubscribe to this topic and not help anyone concerning this matter. Thank You
if one more person asks about the pictures, I will take down my pdf file and unsubscribe to this topic and not help anyone concerning this matter. Thank You
Well " Rosies " key started sticking this past weekend, so figured I better bone up on this " Sticky " before she decides to strand me somewhere .... where are the PICs ??? Everything looks like it's been deleted !
Well, mine decided to lock up entirely yesterday while at a gas station. Got it towed to my apartment and it's sitting there now waiting on me to fix it. I would like to use this step-by-step to fix it but I def need the pictures or PDF, I am NOT a car person so I need every bit of help I can get. Does anyone have the PDF where they can email it or put it back up? I'd like to run through the whole process in my mind while looking at the pics before actually jumping into any of it.
Also, it's sounded like, and I may be misreading it, that some people have been able to simply remove the pin and spring without having to order any parts from MB at all, am I correct? Currently, I can get the key to turn to 1 but not past. So is it possible to just remove that pin and spring and reinstall everything and have it up and running?
Also, it's sounded like, and I may be misreading it, that some people have been able to simply remove the pin and spring without having to order any parts from MB at all, am I correct? Currently, I can get the key to turn to 1 but not past. So is it possible to just remove that pin and spring and reinstall everything and have it up and running?
Ok, I've gotten to the part of drilling out the pin. My grinding stone on my dremel broke so I started using the drill bit that came with the dremel, after about 20min of drilling, this is what I got (first picture) and I can't get the key to go past this (second picture)... I'm assuming I need to drill into it further? Apologies to the car maintenance literate in here, I am NOT very talented in car repair so I am sure this is a stupid post but I yield to the educated masters in here for re-assurance. We all know the expensive alternative and I don't have that option
I'm fairly certain I need to drill further, it just seems to be taking awhile and I thought I'd come here since I have to wait on the wife to get off work before I can go buy more dremel bits.


Last edited by cfdrummer; Jun 29, 2010 at 07:56 PM.
I didn't have to drill mine, but from what I recall when I did mine I just pushed the pin in, rotated the switch assembly and slid it out. Being that your pin is seized, I agree that you have to keep drilling until it's below the surface of the collar and then rotate the assembly and slide right. Keep drilling, but buy a quality bit( like one of those titanium coated ones) to speed the process along. You're doing great, just keep drilling.
Originally Posted by Blast Chamber
I didn't have to drill mine, but from what I recall when I did mine I just pushed the pin in, rotated the switch assembly and slid it out. Being that your pin is seized, I agree that you have to keep drilling until it's below the surface of the collar and then rotate the assembly and slide right. Keep drilling, but buy a quality bit( like one of those titanium coated ones) to speed the process along. You're doing great, just keep drilling.
Last edited by cfdrummer; Jun 29, 2010 at 08:28 PM.
Originally Posted by cfdrummer
Thanks! So once this pin is out and I reinstall the unit, I should be able to start the car.
PM me if you need more info.
Originally Posted by Blast Chamber
Once this pin is out and you remove the ignition switch assembly then you still have to open up the little hatch door and take out that internal pin and spring. This is the pin that is causing all of the grief. My understanding is that the pin you are drilling is related to this internal pin, but it being frozen in place is more of a symptom than the actual cause of the problem. But like I said, I fixed mine when the symptoms first started so I wouldn't have to drill, so you are one level beyond what I did.
PM me if you need more info.
PM me if you need more info.
You all are God's among men.... Thank you, Thank YOU, THANK YOU! I apologize that I was unable to take pictures, I had to do this in a rain storm today at my apartment so I am drenched at the moment but I have a working Crossfire again!!
My BAS ESP light came on like I had read on here several times, but it went away within seconds of driving it back to usual parking spot at the complex. Hopefully it doesn't come back on.
However, I know there isn't a picture of the pin itself so here you go guys!

My BAS ESP light came on like I had read on here several times, but it went away within seconds of driving it back to usual parking spot at the complex. Hopefully it doesn't come back on.
However, I know there isn't a picture of the pin itself so here you go guys!

Originally Posted by Stogey
I'm cornfused ! So if you can get the key to position one then you don't have to drill this pin out ??? 

Sweet ! Thanks for clearing that up Ron !
Now if only my luck holds out until the weekend !
Last edited by Stogey; Jul 1, 2010 at 09:58 AM.
Well I had the Sticky igniton problem. My key would not move past the 0 position. I removed the dash panels and had to drill the pin on the steering column to get the Ingnition Assy Module out of the vehicle. I was able to open the small hatch held by the 4 tabs and remove the spring and the pin. However my key still does not turn. Am I missing something? Or is my ignition toast? Do I need the new part? I am lost. Seriously this forum has been indispensible during my time owning this car and for that I thank everyone on this thread in advance.
I guess someone got their knickers in a knot and removed the excellent instructions. I printed them and when I scan them I will repost them.



