I've been anticipating this day and it finally came. No start.

Get in to leave work so the car is cold. Car cranks for a second and then nada, no starter engagement just had accessory lights, headlights, seatbelt chime etc.

Remembering this thread I went to remove the RCM and check the connections. They don't look as bad as the reference photos but the middle one does look like it might be a cold joint.

Put the RCM back in, car cranks more, sputters and then nada. Starter doesn't engage, just the lights as before.

My question to the community is what does this sound most like? CPS or the RCM cold joints? or both perhaps?

Thanks!

 

CPS car will spin till battery is dead. RCM... pretty much your symptoms..possible joint has enough connection to hit the starter and heats up enough from current draw to break the connection. When I first joined the forum and read about the RCM it was priority one to pull mine and check. Car history at dealer shows it had been in for electrical, and based on seeing mine I believe it had been replaced.

 

Thanks for the quick reply and for confirming my suspicions. Picking up a soldering iron as I type this LOL!

 

Don't be so sure on the neglect as I had lots of corrosion too. I happened to notice a hairline crack in the battery's plastic case at the neg terminal so I'm sure some juices were seeping out and causing it.

I ended up going with Needswings small battery and it's been great.

Word to the wise though, when using baking soda to clean the terminals remove all hardware cause that chit will gum up and seize the bolt/nut that holds the terminal. I got way lucky and was able to remove the nut but I spent the next 30 mins with an xacto cleaning out the threads of the bolt and nut.

My fingers are crossed but I won't know until tomorrow when I get to work (where I had to leave my car) whether or not this fixes it. Just incase, and because I had nothing else better to do, I picked up a CPS too LOL!

 

Bosch I hope.. .. but have had good luck so far with the Adv. Auto version. Worst case it can ride with you for peace of mind.. LOL

 

This!!!!

MB Shops aren't open very late here so it was O’Reilly that got my money... this time.

 

Hmm.. hope they have a lifetime warranty like the Adv. Auto did.. was the reason I settled for theirs since Bosch was in transit from Ebay.. Buy it now that morning.. Adv. auto that evening, the old one was done and dead.. LOL.

 

Yep lifetime warranty

 

Well unfortunately that little solder job didn't solve the issue. I went to replace the CPS and found that 3/8" drive set is to big to get the job done so I gotta find/borrow a 1/4" drive torx socket

Same thing as before, engine cranks for a second then nada, one time it ran rough for a brief moment and then nada.

 

**Update to my situation**

Got my car towed home after I tried a new battery for chits and giggles. I got pricing from both MB and Chrysler for a new RCM

MB Dealer Part #A170 545 03 05 is $201.60

Chrysler Dealer Part #5099007AA is $347.00

Crazy how much more Chrysler is for the same part. I'm going to pick up the MB unit tomorrow and give it a whirl.

 

**Update**

Picked up the new RCM this morning, threw it in the car and I'm at the same place. I guess my only other option is the P2071 (error code) Skreem entry module replacement I haven't a clue where that is or how much it'll cost

 

Have you tried a spare key?
Have you checked that the wire going from the halo around the ignition switch key hole is connected to the SKREEM module?
If it is the SKREEM module you should have three goes at starting the engine.

 

Yep tried spare key too. I sometimes get 3 tries if the battery has been disconnected for a period.

I noticed that my ignition switch is kinda cockeyed towards the left which I thought was weird and I can spin the chrome ring a little bit as well but it definitely hits a stopping point.

 

Tow truck round 2 this time to Rancho Dodge Jeep Chrysler in SD. They fixed my car a long time ago when the intercooler water pump failed. They don't charge for diagnostics either so figure what the hey, I'm sure if I get it fixed there they'll make up for their "free" diagnostics LOL.

 

**Update**

Dealer found the issue to be "Wireless control module/skim module failure. Need to replace and program module. Replace keys as needed."

Total cost $1049.54

 

'skreem' module, not 'skim' module.
But it's all a little milky to me ......

 

Well you heard it here first. Sorry to hear the bad, make that expensive news.

 

Wonder if they even attempted to obtain the "secret code" in the old skreem module.. new one can be programmed and retain current keys.. made reference to this in another thread I believe.. and it's in the service manual..

 

That was verbatim from their report

 

You should be able to use your old keys, is this true in your case?