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Do i need to have the front lifted or the whole car on jack stands?
You can drop the trans pan to change filter with just the front lifted; Please be safe and secure that front end from dropping and set the parking brake tight.
If you are not having any problems you may want to consider removing the plastic cap at the transmission dipstick tube and simple vacuum suction the fluid out of the transmission; Measure exactly what you took out and replace the same amount. Drive the car twenty minutes and then do it again 2 more times. You will have diluted the original fluid down to about the same amount as if you dropped the pan as the fluid in the converter and the cooling lines will not drain by just dropping the pan. Either way works out about the same. Here is a link which may help Trans fluid/filter change
Hi zip439,
I had my transmission serviced by an independent Mercedes shop so I know it was on a lift. Chrysler says to service at 80,000 & Mercedes says 40,000 so I did the 40,000. Also the electric connector on my '04 was leaking. The connector has a small screw that can be broken when installing because of a tight fit. The replacement connector will not leak. That is all I can say.
Would you change the fluid 2 more times before changing the filter. Or pull the pan and filter the first fluid drain.
Read the link I posted in # 122 above. Drop pan and install new filter the first cycle of oil exchange. After you have completed that you can suction vacuum fluid removal of transmission fluid from above through the dipstick tube. ( measure what you remove and add the same amount back in) Drive the car for twenty minutes after putting new fluid in the car will circulate the fluid through the converter for a complete exchange of old and new fluid. You can do that cycle twice.
Many times transmission filter/fluid service is just the one step drop pan, change filter, add new fluid once and you are done, unless you are specific as to be certain the fluid in the transmission and converter is forced flushed at your service garage. AND you trust them to actually do what you requested.
It is a messy job and you do need to purchase some special tools that may be seldom used again, so there are times it makes sense to leave the job to a shop/mechanic you trust.
[QUOTE=zip439;940758After you have completed that you can suction vacuum fluid removal of transmission fluid from above through the dipstick tube.[/QUOTE]
What is this magical piece of equipment that can suck tranny fluid up through the dipstick? Tell me you are not referring to the syrynge thing that we use to suck out supercharger oil. Not with a shop vac either I suppose. Not a vacuum pump like what is used in AC refrigeration work either I suppose. Please enlighten us on how to remove the 3 qts in the torque converter without going to the dealer. I saw a complete kit on FCPEURO website that includes the connector plug, filter, gasket, and conductor plate for a reasonable price.
I use the Mityvac 7300 ( uses compressed air, no hand pumping ).
You cannot drain the torque converter, member zip439 recommends changing the fluid 3 times with about 20 miles driving between changes.
That would work, but the fluid is pretty expensive.
I'm have been happy with just the one change.
( why do you think you need to replace the conductor plate ? )
I use the Mityvac 7300 ( uses compressed air, no hand pumping ).
You cannot drain the torque converter, member zip439 recommends changing the fluid 3 times with about 20 miles driving between changes.
That would work, but the fluid is pretty expensive.
I'm have been happy with just the one change.
( why do you think you need to replace the conductor plate ? )
~ I feel that with the 0600 code I got, that it may be bad...not for any thoroughly logical troubleshooting reason though...
~ Thanks, I read what zip wrote, and have considered that method, I am intrigued by the the evacuator pump idea that you mentioned. So, my question is about the operation of that device. Do you simply insert a supplied hose into the dipstick tube fully and start the process until no more fluid comes out? Then remove the pan next? This avoids having a full catch pan beneath the vehicle since most of the fluid is in the evacuator?
~ Also, concerning the pigtail connector that looks to be folded and clipped to the rear side of the pan...Are there are connectors on both ends? Can you direct me to a link describing the connector and /or pigtail replacement? ...Thanks
~ I feel that with the 0600 code I got, that it may be bad...not for any thoroughly logical troubleshooting reason though...
~ Thanks, I read what zip wrote, and have considered that method, I am intrigued by the the evacuator pump idea that you mentioned. So, my question is about the operation of that device. Do you simply insert a supplied hose into the dipstick tube fully and start the process until no more fluid comes out? Then remove the pan next? This avoids having a full catch pan beneath the vehicle since most of the fluid is in the evacuator?
~ Also, concerning the pigtail connector that looks to be folded and clipped to the rear side of the pan...Are there are connectors on both ends? Can you direct me to a link describing the connector and /or pigtail replacement? ...Thanks
That is exactly how the pump is used. The model I got is air powered, so I just insert the tube as you described and sit back with a beer.
When it is done pumping, mark the level on the side of the pump with a piece of tape, that way you can put the exact same amount back in that you took out.
As to the transmission connector, yes replace that. There are countless youTube videos on that, just search 722.6 transmission connector.
Last edited by ala_xfire; May 28, 2020 at 10:16 AM.
Late to the party, sorry, didn't see this in my email. As George responded the magic tool is a Mityvac evacuator. I bought the old school model MV7201, but I really like Georges that includes the sit back drink beer option. I also use it exclusively when changing oil; No mess.
Last edited by zip439; May 29, 2020 at 08:08 AM.
Reason: different tool/ Power Bleeder 0100
We got the straight-up "for realz" Mercedes-Benz 722.6 tranny in the Crossfire, no different than in actual Mercedes' cars. I'll include a picture of my car's pan. Notice it's painted black and has a drain plug.
Here's a pan shot of a NAG1 / W5A330 in a 2006 Chrysler 300C SRT8. Notice the pan isn't painted nor is there a drain plug. Otherwise the pan "stamping" is identical such that you could swap the pan from our car to the Chrysler 300C and vice-versa.
Here's our transmission pan application cross-reference list. Notice how the most powerful Mercedes' vehicles (Maybach, SL600 & SL65 AMG, etc.) kept using the 722.6 5spd after all other Mercedes had adopted the 722.9 7spd, since the 722.6 has a much higher torque handling capacity.
Also, forgive my unholy thoughts, but since Chrysler "bolted" the 722.6 tranny to so many Chrysler/MOPAR engines, including their mighty 6.1L & 6.4L V8's, I wonder if anyone ever thought of shoehorning 'those' engines into a Crossfire?