DIY car ramps
I have been thinking of making some ramps to work under the car so I can add a new steering damper, change the oil in the diff and have a look around at the boots etc.
A quick search on the web gives a lot of ideas that have been put into practice.
These are some of the most interesting.

A quick search on the web gives a lot of ideas that have been put into practice.
These are some of the most interesting.

Pretty funny...
I see this type of stuff when at my place in mexico very often, they get creative with whatever they have laying around...
Not sure if this was just posted so we could all have a laugh or if there was a question about building ramps... Anyway, I built ramps out of 2 x10's to do just the things you mentioned, I either drive onto them to raise the front or back onto to raise the back.
4 layers of 2 x 10 is what I built, 4 ft, 3ft, 2ft, 1ft stacked with a stop built on the 1ft piece. Good for the low splitter on the SRT6 as each rise is small. They also store easy as they fit together like tetris blocks...
Hope this helps some one.
I see this type of stuff when at my place in mexico very often, they get creative with whatever they have laying around...
Not sure if this was just posted so we could all have a laugh or if there was a question about building ramps... Anyway, I built ramps out of 2 x10's to do just the things you mentioned, I either drive onto them to raise the front or back onto to raise the back.
4 layers of 2 x 10 is what I built, 4 ft, 3ft, 2ft, 1ft stacked with a stop built on the 1ft piece. Good for the low splitter on the SRT6 as each rise is small. They also store easy as they fit together like tetris blocks...
Hope this helps some one.
Pretty funny...
I see this type of stuff when at my place in mexico very often, they get creative with whatever they have laying around...
Not sure if this was just posted so we could all have a laugh or if there was a question about building ramps... Anyway, I built ramps out of 2 x10's to do just the things you mentioned, I either drive onto them to raise the front or back onto to raise the back.
4 layers of 2 x 10 is what I built, 4 ft, 3ft, 2ft, 1ft stacked with a stop built on the 1ft piece. Good for the low splitter on the SRT6 as each rise is small. They also store easy as they fit together like tetris blocks...
Hope this helps some one.
I see this type of stuff when at my place in mexico very often, they get creative with whatever they have laying around...
Not sure if this was just posted so we could all have a laugh or if there was a question about building ramps... Anyway, I built ramps out of 2 x10's to do just the things you mentioned, I either drive onto them to raise the front or back onto to raise the back.
4 layers of 2 x 10 is what I built, 4 ft, 3ft, 2ft, 1ft stacked with a stop built on the 1ft piece. Good for the low splitter on the SRT6 as each rise is small. They also store easy as they fit together like tetris blocks...
Hope this helps some one.
Hey 180,
I forgot to mention that I also put some rubber on the bottom of each so they would not slide around when driving onto them on my smooth concrete floor in my garage..
Good luck..
I forgot to mention that I also put some rubber on the bottom of each so they would not slide around when driving onto them on my smooth concrete floor in my garage..
Good luck..
Last edited by onehundred80; May 3, 2017 at 11:02 PM.
To reduce the weight I was thinking of 2 x 4s X 10" every 6" crosswise where the 2 X 10 step was. So that every other layer had 2 X 4s.
I did a layout on AutoCAD looks OK.
I did a layout on AutoCAD looks OK.
I've gotten considerable use from my set and hardly ever use the old metal ramps I have. Main difference - the angle of approach on the Rhino Ramps is shallow enough that today's cars can climb the ramp w/o rubbing. The Rhino Ramps are also much wider to accommodate today's low profile rubber. My old steel ramps had much steeper inclines (due to a higher overall lift) & I had to make a couple of transition pieces to enable the cars to go up the ramps. But the metal ramps have inclines that can be removed which is a plus for working in & around both front & back of tires. If I need that overall clearance, I get the steel ramps out. For changing oil by draining from the underside and/or replacing the steering stabilizer, the Rhino Ramps work great!
Last edited by dedwards0323; Jul 14, 2017 at 09:48 AM.
Thanks this was the one I'm thinking about getting but saw some reviews about them breaking etc. and just want to be safe when I'm doing the oil change..
Just about any pair of jack stands will do. You need to make sure the minimum height is something you can deal with when jacking up the XFire. You have to at least get that high. And make sure the jack stand top pad is large enough to accommodate a rubber-like spacer on it to prevent any scratching of the under carriage. (Note: I've never been a fan of the scissors-type jack stands.)
I also bought a pair of these (Jack Pad Adapters) which exactly fit into the jacking lift pads on the XFire. One of the issues you'll run into is that the ground clearance under the rocker panel of the XFire isn't all that much and adding these adapters, jacking pads, etc., can keep you from getting a lifting jack under the car.
I also bought a pair of these (Jack Pad Adapters) which exactly fit into the jacking lift pads on the XFire. One of the issues you'll run into is that the ground clearance under the rocker panel of the XFire isn't all that much and adding these adapters, jacking pads, etc., can keep you from getting a lifting jack under the car.
Last edited by dedwards0323; Jul 16, 2017 at 05:06 PM.
Thanks dedwards0323 for the response. I was also thinking about these Esco 10499 or Torin Jack Aluminum Jack Stand is a 3 Ton pair of adjustable jack stands
Last edited by mariontr; Jul 18, 2017 at 10:49 AM. Reason: trying to get rid of embedded media


