Working on my install. Took some more pictures for you.

Drilled a hole in the center of the bushing to allow it to be lubed. I started with a small abrasive bit in my Dremel. When the hole was 1/4 inch deep (be careful, the polyurethane melts from the heat and can burn), I switched to a drill bit. I had to run the drill repeatedly on the fastest setting to clear the debris from the hole. I aligned the drilled hole with one of the molded in grease grooves in the bushing.



I used a flat Dremel grinding stone to cut a circumferential groove in the inner bore of the bushing. I did this to connect the three grease grooves to allow lube to flow completely around the bushing.



I drilled a hole in the center of the bore in the LCA in a convenient spot. I think the fitting will clear the body mount to droop the suspension to install the spring. If there is an issue, I can temporarily remove the fitting. The fitting actually protrudes through the LCA and into the bushing.

I removed the grease fitting to install the bushing.



Completed. I had to turn the bushing slightly as the hole in the bushing did not align with the hole in the LCA. I had used very soapy water to install the bushing, so I grabbed both sides of the bushing with channellocks, and turned the bushing to align the holes.

 

I am curious what you plan to use for lube? Petroleum product? Synthetic?

PS - With the grease fitting protruding into the bushing, it will act like a pin. Causing the bushing to possibly tear in that area?

 

I have a synthetic lube I plan to use. The bushing should move with the LCA, and pivot on the metal inner shaft. I think the fitting protrusion is so shallow, that if the bushing did spin in the bore, it would just tear a groove in the bushing.

 

If the inner metal shaft pivots on the rubber, it is defective, IMO. Most bushing like these I am familar with, should not pivot on the inner shaft because they are molded to it. Once they start to pivot, is when the bushings tear. Maybe someone else knows better than me.

James

PS think about where you want the lube to work.

 

These bushings are designed to pivot on the inner shaft. I'll take a better picture later this week.

 

This is an interesting discussion. I believe the pivot is the inner shaft but the stock bushing is obviously designed to cede rotationally to a degree. If this is erroneous, when pushed too hard they do rotate and break because mine did. I mentioned poly bushings to my "race specialist" and he wrinkled his face. He told me to stay stock or go with spherical bearings. He believes Poly is better, costs more and tears at the same rate as stock rubber. So if your tearing the stock stuff replacing it with expensive poly is not the best solution. He did mention how unbearable the spherical bearings are for day to day. I guess thats why we all ride on rubber. Not to mention why I replaced the torn bushings with new rubber ones. I still don't know what I'll do the next time they are shot.

Les

 

If you were able to turn the bushing in LCA that easy, you don't think it will pivot once installed?

James

 

I have read all the good comments, and took another look at my setup last night. I am waiting on tools, cleaning and painting various bits, so I have plenty of time.

I had to use two channellock pliers, one on each side of the bushing while it was still wet. I cannot turn it now.

The stock bushing has two "arms" which connect the inner and outer tube together. There are two voids in this bushing.



This allows the bushing to give to an extent. Makes the ride better, but the bushing eventually tears. The new bushing is a soft polyurethane, but is solid. W201's have a similar setup.

This is an experiment to see if the lube setup works. I intend to disassemble again at a later date to check on the setup.

The Issue I can see is the center pivot is smaller on the face which contacts the mount. The stock bushing has a large contact face, where the replacement is just a tube. We'll see how it works.

 

Keep us posted. Thanks.