('07 Ltd. Coupe): When installing Akebono front brake pads yesterday, one of the outer clips was installed as shown. The other one's ends were below this mounting point. Which is correct?

I found it next to impossible to mount the ends underneath and get the pins in the holes. I assume it is simply for anti-vibration. Meaning, if it was meant to really hold the outer section in place, ATE would have added additional solid brackets.

Brake fade: I took the XF for a brief run and rather than a solid pedal feel, the pedal went down about a quarter of the pedal when stopping. Will this go away? I assume so. The only thing affecting brake fluid is when I used a large C-clamp to compress the cylinder so that I could get the much thicker pads installed. I can't imagine that anything except for the brake fluid level is affected by compressing the brake fluid this way. The fluid level in the reservoir is at the top.

 

OK, the clp is installed incorrectly. The end bends should be under the ends of the caliper bracket. It does take a bit of effort to clear the "hump".

If there is ANY question about pedal feel, bleed the system and start from there, JMHO.

 

maxcichon, thanks for your reply, even though it wasn't what I wanted to hear.

Is there some trick to getting the end in the remaining hole? Sure not helped by it being bent downward. The closest I came to installing it (the unfortunately) correct way was with using needle nose vise-grip pliers.

How is the enclosed moly brake lube to be used?

Is brake bleeding on a car with ABS any different than with pre-ABS brake systems?

 

Have you read the Shop Manual, if not download it and look at the brake section. There is a picture of the spring in position.
The grease is to lubricate the wear surfaces unless it is anti squeal grease and that goes on the BACK of the pad.
Brake bleeding is the same. Change all the fluid while you are at it.
These cars have a soft pedal feel, I went through that question myself.

 

Yep. Just what the old Canuck said...

I bought one of these:


...and it's turned out to be the coolest/handiest tool I own. Using compressed air and a little venturi vacuum generator, it, as stated, creates a vacuum one uses to suck liquids from...anywhere. If you can't drain a reservoir, you can use this to empty it.

You may be able to borrow a similar unit from a local autoparts store?

Or do it the old, uncool way!

There are also replacement bleeder screws with built-in check valves. For doing it yourself, with no air sucked back up the lines!

Google "Speed Bleeder". Amazon carries them.

 

I have a stack of OEM manuals for the XF, roughly three feet high (+/– a sixteenth). It is so intimidating I just use them for a door stop. Okay, I should actually peruse them enough to get an idea where specific info is located.

I'm spoiled in that Alfa Romeo's I work on have really neat parts manuals with lots of pictures, which generally answers my questions. Also a shop manual.

Brake fluid: I definitely need to bleed the brakes. Googling best brake fluid for a SLK320 I got several Mercedes brake fluids for sale. However, on a Mercedes forum, a fellow was told to use Mobil 1 brake fluid.

Comments?

By the by, with the last of my strength today I shoehorned the second bent ends into each of the holes with the outer sections below the bumps. Have to say, a bit crude, but no doubt cost effective.

 

LOL. I have to tell you: the "online/.pdf" manual is a bit easier to use than the tree-killers. A very handy index on page #1. You find the section you want and *clic* on it!

and it won't fall off the bench, losing your page.

But spilling coffee on it can be an...issue!

Happy Hunting, buddy.

 

maxcichon, onehundred80, right now my concern is to get the 'correct' brake fluid. It's either what my local AutoZone has or buying the 'guaranteed' Mercedes brake fluid on the Internet.

The brakes are very mushy so the sooner I bleed them, the better. Not my favorite thing since there are no handy brake pushers I can rely on.

I do have a MityVac and will be using it.

 

I used MOTUL RBF 600. It is a high temperature fluid and a good brand. Not cheap but neither am I.
It is a DOT 4 fluid and that is the type required.

 

+1. George and I used Super Blue Racing. Illegal for street use, I hear, in the US.



Because of the color!

 

You never told me THAT !
Guess I'll have to go turn myself in and hope I get a light sentence.
I'm going out now to find a State Trooper, I'll stop him ( not a wise thing to do ) and tell him, "Sorry sir, but unbeknownst to me, someone put blue brake fluid in my car" - while holding out both hands for the cuffs.

 

Wait for Saturday. I want to take pictures...

 

I was a bit surprised to find Pentosin Dot 4 and also Dot 4 LV. I went with the latter since the brake fluid cap says DOT 4+ and (fingers crossed) hoped that the LV is the +.

The non LV says nothing about ABS, etc. However the LV lists later (very relative term) cars that have ABS, ASR, ESP/DSC and is of a low viscosity.

I asked the sales guy if it was compatible with an '03 SLK320 and he said it called for either DOT 3 or 4. Just checking through all of the Mercedes Benz models on the Pentosin web pages and they all called for DOT 4.

What is the +? Do all of your brake fluid caps say DOT 4+?

So...am I good to go with the LV or not?

 

I think it refers to extended temperature.

I THINK.

Therefore, I'm WRONG!

 

maxcichon, no, yes you're incorrect that you are incorrect. Got that?

Along with being a lower viscosity it does have a higher boiling point - 509 degrees F, which is getting up there. Not sure what this means, but the Wet boiling point is merely 338 degrees F.

Many years ago I boiled the brake fluid on my '85 Alfa GTV6 at the Streets of Willow (should you know where that is).

 

Everybody knows that Willow Springs is that twisty track where the NASCAR boys used go to play once a year and relearn how to turn right.

EDIT : OOOOPS meant boys and Danica

 

I've moved on to brake bleeding but can start a new thread if necessary.

I bled the front brakes - yes, I know, one should start from the left rear but figured they weren't affected by my installing the front pads.

I had a stick holding the brake pedal down when using my Mity-Vac. I had the choice of never ending zillions of tiny bubbles with the bleed screw cracked about an 1/8th of the way, or never ending fewer large bubbles with the screw cracked a 32nd of the way.

On page 5-8 of the manual it says: DO NOT pump the brake pedal at any time while bleeding. Air in the system will be compressed into small bubbles that are distributed throughout the hydraulic system. This will make additional bleeding operations necessary.

Numbers 1 and 2 say to fill the reservoir and allow the brakes to gravity bleed. (In whose lifetime?)

Number 3 says to put the tube in a partially glass jar (as if it wasn't already - though going through the Mity-Vac).

Number 4 says to get a helper to press down on the brake pedal, hold, tighten screw (then do it until you're blue in the face).

Okay, not pumping, but close to it. What I get is that pretty much whatever you do, it ain't gonna work.

Am I going to have to get another reservoir cap, epoxy in a tube, and pump this way?

I do not see how one can create more air bubbles in what is (should be) a closed system. The fluid level never got below 2/3rds of the upper reservoir.

Though I am sort of getting used to a half pedal. Does stop well.

 

You may be sucking in air right at the bleed screw. Either through the threads or o loose fit with the rubber boot on the MityVac.

I throttle the suction using the lever/valve.

 

I gave up the suction method because the air leaked around the bleed nipple (can we say nipple here?)
Some one said to put something around the nipple to stop the air getting in. My buddy had nothing better to do than sit in the car, pump the brake and suck on a beer.

 

Since I don't have any friends...

Fairly early on I spread a thick coating of grease to keep air out of the threads around the lower portion of the bleed screw which I've done on other car's brake systems with good results. It didn't make a bit of difference.

It's certainly not helped that the bleed screw's threads are very coarse. I accept that the bleed screws on the 40 to 60 year old Alfa's I restore aren't ideal. But by 2007 every car maker should use relatively long, fine threaded bleed screws. There are some aftermarket bleed screws which will work for a few brake bleeds, but their special coating on the threads start leaking air after that.

Once again I have to ask, does the ABS require a specific way of bleeding the brakes?