Thanks 180, I read all that and that is why I advised him :
BOTTOM LINE, SPEND THE $100 BUCKS AND REPLACE THE SENSOR, THEY ARE KNOWN TO BE A PROBLEM.

 

I did a test like this on a Chrysler Concorde, told the dealer that they should change the CPS and that was all they were to do. That saved me a diagnosis charge, they were a bit surprised I knew the fault. I only had a multi-meter for the test. I did the test before it was towed in to the dealer, as that CPS was in a worse position than the one on the Crossfire and was only accessible from underneath. That CPS died overnight in the garage luckily.

 

Funny you should say that. I still have a 2002 Concorde Limited, and I am well aware of the horrible position of the CPS. Had to replace that one a couple of years ago. That and the transmission shift cable are the only things I have had to do on the Concorde, other than tires, oil/filter, air filter changes.
Unfortunately, I have found that the passenger seat no longer heats, unless no one is sitting in it.
Kinda useless that way, so I am going to have to dig into that this winter.

 

Mine was a '93 Concorde with the 3.5l engine, then we later had a pair of LH cars when we got the '94 LHS, used with 30,000 miles on it but mint condition. The LHS was probably the most comfortable car we ever had. Apart from crap wiring and AC problems these cars were great. Winter tires all around and winter weather was no problem. My wife worked at a Chrysler dealer so out of warranty fixes were cheap. The 300 Touring that I have now is no comparison to the LH models, more powerful engine and that's about it.

 

I owned a 93 intrepid 3.5, a 95 intrepid 3.5 and a 99 300m.My dad owned a 94LHS as well. All of those cars had garbage a/c systems, prone to leak. The improved 3.5 with plastic intake design interfered with the cps removal hence, that job required that you remove the plastic intake. While you had the intake off, it's well worth your while to also replace the gaskets off of the aluminium intake prone to have a vacuum leak. My 300m engine suffered from a leaky oring on the heater pipe located under the aluminium intake, a factory defect caused by improperly secured coolant pipe brackets. The earlier 3.5's were known to have timing belt issues, been there, done that, mainly caused by a combination of waterpump seeping on the belt and the waterpump bearing going, causing the belt to shift and rub/shread into the front cover. Good thing the valves clear the piston on this engine! Oh, wait a minute.... how did we go from RCM repairs to this.... te hee!

 

I also owned a "95 LHS. WORST car ever IMO. Bought it new and every issue with the car seemed to repeat. A/C condensor, brakes, ABS Module, , body trims, yada yada. Kept if for 4 years and swore I'd never buy another Chrysler oops well thankfully it's really not a Chrysler.

 

Replaced the CPS. Turned over for a second then died out.

Pep Boys had one for $85 I called Auto Zone across the street and they told me they didnt have the CPS for the crossfire and had no access to it. I asked for the 2004 SLK320 and of course they have it in stock for $55. I also picked up a set of torx sockets.

Took me about an hour to change it out. The most difficult part (after prying the harness off) was my socket didnt fit between the shield and the sensor to get to the E8 bolt. I had to loosen the E10 bolts that hold that shield / bracket / thingy so I could swing it out of the way and gain access to the sensor's bolt.

Hands ripped raw and bloody, I'm back at square zero with mystery no start.
To recap:
A couple months ago the car mysteriously wouldn't start for about 15 minutes. Then fired up and ran fine for months.
A couple weeks ago I got a CEL. I bought a bluetooth OBDII transponder and downloaded an awesome app for my droid called Torque (Torque — OBD2 Performance and Diagnostics for your Vehicle) which read the p0140 code.
Last Saturday I got in the car and BAM!, Mystery no start. It DID turn over a couple times then immediately fade out and die.
I did a less than expert job soldering SOME of the RCM joints that look like the posts are protruding out of the solder. I could use a smaller iron and do the rest of the board. However I tested the relays with the RCM plugged in and they all seem to work!
I put a new battery in the car and noticed a bit of corrosion caused by the old battery. I cleaned up a corroded ground wire that bolts to the frame/wheel well just under the windshield wiper fluid reservoir. Fresh battery yielded not a single crank.

I'm almost the point where I have to call AAA and have it towed to the local shop.

 

About the only 'simple' things left that I can think of are :
1. Camshaft Position Sensor
2. fuel pump ( are you sure there is fuel pressure at the rail when it is cranking ? )

wouldn't think it would be related to spark, there are 6 modules for that and all wouldn't fail together.

gasoline engines need 3 things to run :
1. fuel
2. spark
3. timing
( compression don't hurt either, but doubt this is an issue )

WARNING !!!! once you hit the dreaded 30 failed attempts to start, the ECM or PCM ( not sure which ) self destructs as in Mission Impossible. ( because the designers decided to prevent car thefts via this method )

 

Just thought on this. Your "test" for the relays on the rcm.. doesn't confirm it's getting a signal to actuate them. Only confirms the contact is hot. And reading your solder information..Did you confirm from here (pictures) which leads to check?
Protruding leads as you put it don't indicate a need to solder.

 

Oh no! Really? I'm sure I've tried the key over 30 times! Is that something I could reset?
Perhaps THATs the problem after everything I've fixed.

 

I had a bad feeling for you when I saw that one.. wouldn't be hard to try 5 times..tinker..another 4-5 times.. that give you a total of six-seven times of "lets try this"..

 

I had asked earlier in this post when I pulled mine for inspection.. noted it had 07-06 S on the board. Notice his has 12-04 S stamped on it. Is this a mfg date code. Just wondering since mines 04 model.

 

Update on my Mystery No Start.

I had it towed to the shop two days ago. (Superior Auto in North Hollywood was recommended on this forum when I purchased the car. They performed a B Service months ago and he gained my trust)

They cant figure it out. I stopped by today and he handed me all the diagnostics, with which I am now searching the forum to learn more.

I have a page here from the Diagnostics Assistance System that reads my VIN and states the Model as 170.465. It shows the ME@-SFI 2.8 is a FAIL.

The fault code he got is "2071-08 Start enable from SKREEM not!"
It continues to read, "The fault is detected by component N54/3 (Radio DAS control module) and an appropriate message is transmitted through the engine CAN to component N3/10 (ME_SFI {ME} control unit)
I'm not sure what all that means. It sounds like it translates to "scanner says car broken" -ha

The technician included the starting circuit diagram showing where he tested the system point by point. He shows the Powertrain control module is not sending a signal to the Pulse Module. Pulse Module works when he manually grounds it to the powertrain module.

He says this indicates the problem is that it's not reading the key. The two independent guys they use to reprogram modules and keys can do any car except the crossfire.

Last night on the phone I explained to him the procedure to program the key (insert key, push button twice...) He asked me to bring in the OEM key today which I did.

So they think its a module programming issue. They are stuck. I'm stuck.

Gentlemen, any insight or experience here is greatly appreciated.

PS. I am being thorough on the symptoms and experience for the integrity of this sticky.

Documentation:

 

I think I'm onto something here:
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...tml#post324921

Perhaps if we disconnect the battery, then disconnect the skreem module...
I'm running this info down to the shop.

 

Replied on September 23, 2009
there is a recall for the power control module needing the sentry anti theft system to be reprogramed

SOMETHING INTERESTING I RAN ACROSS..

2005 Chrysler Crossfire Problem Intermittent Ignition Lock Out (Eng

 

I think you missed on the key programming..other than for the doors and alarm setting.. this does not make a key "automatically" compatable..
""Take the car key and car to your Chrysler dealer to have the new transponder coded to your ignition system. "

Read more: How to Replace Chrysler Car Keys | eHow.com How to Replace Chrysler Car Keys | eHow.com

And yeah..that SKREEM module code makes me think about the 30 attempts to start that was aforementioned...

 

You need to check the transponder antenna ring. Sometimes they can break or wear through the insulation and at that point your car cannot verify the key and won't let you start the car. If you're stuck after checking this, have your tech give me a call. 952-681-1000

Good luck,

Rudy

 

Bad news.

Its been a week at the shop and they still can't figure it out.
On my recommendation they took apart the dash to unplug and re-plug the SKREEM Module as described in the link above and still nothing.
They are calling in one last expert who programs cars and keys. If he can't help them then they say it time to go to the dealer.

Bummed on my birthday.

 

Looks like It's going to the dealer now.
Paul at Superior Auto says it's now down to programming the key to the car. The cheapest independent guy wants to charge $220 to program plus $70 to plug in his scanners where as the dealership wants to charge only $110.

I went down there today to try this:
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...-key-save.html

Which worked when I purchased a second key from the dealer.

The Skreem module and transponder ring, I assume are fine after they took apart the dash.
Paul charged me for just 2 hours of labor despite the actual hours they have been working on it.

I'm now going to call the different chrysler dealrships in LA to see whom I trust most.

 

Update: Going on 3 weeks with out my Crossfire. Been riding the guzzi to and from work everyday.

I had the car towed from Superior Auto Clinic in North Hollywood to Dave Ellis Chrysler in Canoga Park. I relayed the history of the issue to the service manager who did not tell his certified crossfire tech as he wanted him to diagnose the issue blind.
They've come up with the same thing I did, "Code 2071-08 Start enable from SKREEM not sent."
He says that this is a known issue and there is a "Star Case" number that was issued just this August.
The protocol is to replace the SKREEM module; parts + labor $620. Ouch.