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Today was a fun one. New intercooler pump, had replaced less than 3 years ago with new pump but ended up being the same faulty pos😁😁 so I installed the upgraded unit today and changed the supercharger oil, since I was down a little on antifreeze I decided to add a little chill charger to see if that makes a difference in my temps😉 oil on the supercharger I suspect to have 77k miles on it my coolant however was brand new and still water clear😀 cheers. It feels good to have her out and about again (Denver problems)
Drove through the rain which stopped the mystery clunking in my rear end, making me think it is a lubrication issue somewhere. I am going to put something on my shocks that won't damage the seal. Otherwise, raised the back end to stop it rubbing on highway bumps (ramps). Attempted to remove a shock to adjust the firmness and realized I've got no idea how it is attached to the wheel assembly. I removed the bolt and it still wouldn't move. Looked like a sleeve was slipped through the lower control arm and through the shock. But it was solidly in there, I didn't resort to a punch to move it until I could research further. I don't want to take apart the whole trunk lining to access the top of the shock. I don't have finesse for plastic fasteners. Added silicone lubricant to camber arm bushing that likes to make the squeaky bed sound. Bled the brakes which helped with the wheel pulling while slowing to a stop. Will bleed more as brakes are still unresponsive for first 25% of pedal depth.
Still hunting the clunking. Didn't get to bleeding brakes this week, and instead of spraying the shocks with some risky lubricant I opted for dismantling the rear sway bar's links and bushings. When I grabbed and shifted the sway bar it definitely clunked. Clunking seemed to come from bushing/mount. So I thought that might be my mustery clunk. But nope. Lubed them with silicone spray and reassembled with thorough tightness and far drive sounded same as before. Maybe next time lubing the shocks. Also investigating shock mount tightness from inside trunk.
Did a 6 hour charity rally today beginning with breakfast in one of the car-condos at the M1 Concourse, 2 laps of the race track, then a run around the lakes and rivers north of the Detroit Metro. Finished with lunch & drinks at a cider mill/vodka distillery in Romeo, MI.
Weather perfect and car ran great. Really liking the new Pirellis.
Went to drive my car the other day for the first time this season, the brake pedal literally went all the way to the floor. No leaks, fluid good. Bleed all 4 wheels until I used all 32oz of Dot 4. MightyVac evacuator makes it really easy. Good pedal as it should now. I don't understand why this happens to Crossfires. In all the years working on cars, I never had to bleed brakes unless a problem has occurred to allow air in.
Replaced my door speakers with some pioneer components and solved my passenger window issue. For who knows what reason the previous owner had the motor unplugged.
Went to drive my car the other day for the first time this season, the brake pedal literally went all the way to the floor. No leaks, fluid good. Bleed all 4 wheels until I used all 32oz of Dot 4. MightyVac evacuator makes it really easy. Good pedal as it should now. I don't understand why this happens to Crossfires. In all the years working on cars, I never had to bleed brakes unless a problem has occurred to allow air in.
James
I'm thinking that the seals in the MC had retained the memory of the relaxed position in the bore and did not expand, and this allowed the oil to leak past the seals as it does in a seal failure. The oil has to go past the MC seal if it does not leak anywhere else. I have not noticed this on my cars though.
I did suffer a near total MC seal failure once when stopping behind a bus in the UK, a guy standing on the rear platform of the bus was laughing at my panicked face as a furious pumping of the brakes stopped me just in time.
1, Replaced the interior rear view mirror, (the silvering was degrading around the edges on the old one?)
2, Replaced the wiper blades.
3, Removed the crappy under-hood insulation & replaced with shiny new alloy / foam replacement.
4, Removed the stock MAF housing & replaced it with the larger 74mm housing (keeping the stock sensor).
No problem, next time I'm under the hood, its no perfect job though, just functional, I just had to get rid of the rotting, hanging, dusty crap that was under there. The insulation itself only cost £13 delivered. General purpose, cut it yourself
1, Replaced the interior rear view mirror, (the silvering was degrading around the edges on the old one?)
2, Replaced the wiper blades.
3, Removed the crappy under-hood insulation & replaced with shiny new alloy / foam replacement.
4, Removed the stock MAF housing & replaced it with the larger 74mm housing (keeping the stock sensor).
Feels good, next weekend? Oil catch can !!!!!!
I just finished replacing mine too but the foam is a gloss black. I purchased this online someplace and it came with a break off disposable blade and a roller. What I did was cut it to fit, even cut slits to fit factory hold down tabs, then cut an X in the backing put it in place then slid my hand under and pulled the backing off in 4 quarters, then used the roller. Will also post some pics when I finish everything.