Guess its better today, than tomorrow ,on the way to TOD! Lower ball joint popped, dang it...

 

Thanks guys.

One thing I forgot to mention... all the graphite parts can be replaced back to silver in an evening. I have the original wheels, door handles, strakes, and grille in the garage. I did have to repaint my diffusers, but they aren't original anyway. The original windshield trim and wing are also packed away!

James

 

Installed Needswings ASP 178mm crank pulley and PSK178 pulley kit. Was hoping to get the s/c pulley bearing replaced today, but it's been a slow moving day for me (yep, getting old)... So that's what I'll do tomorrow (along with the ECU reflash), then I have a new s/c coolant pump and isolation kit to install on Monday (yep federal holiday so I'm off), and I have to get the stock exhaust back on so I can add the high flow cats to the new exhaust (next weekends project).

 

What was the outcome of the new MC and the brake system bleed?
Any improvements? I intend to do mine today.

 

Dave, Since I bled new fluid through my brake system, It has been perfect. And my pedal was almost to the floor when I drove it in the spring. Not sure if it makes a difference on the Crossfire, but I ran the engine while doing this so the anti-lock system was functional.

James

 

Just and FYI - The door handles/lock cylinders must have been updated after the service manual was printed. It will confuse you because it has you removing things that aren't there!

 

I chose not to do either of these tasks before the ToD GTG in Fontana Dam, NC this past weekend. Brakes worked fine all weekend. I did a complete fluid flush back in AUG/2016 when I installed SS brake lines all around. I filled the system with Pentosin Super Dot4 back then. Thought I remembered the brakes being firmer back then than they are now. Think I'll bleed the system again (per your suggestion) with the car running (like James did) & see if the brake pedal feel improves. I may end up still installing a new master cylinder but I'll wait & see. Just hard for me to believe the master cylinder would go bad with only 20k on the ODO (ODO turned over 20k right as I pulled into my driveway on Sunday).

 

Thanks James, that is something I wanted to hear. My brakes work fine but the pedal is really close to the floor. They should not be that close though.
I think that the larger brake cylinders in the SRT require more oil to be pushed than my old NA. As soon as I drove the SRT I felt something different. But the amount of oil displaced by the pedal in the SRT should not make that much difference.
I'll try the engine running idea.

 

Dave, I have the SRT calipers on my NA and with the stainless lines it feels wonderful with minimal pedal travel. I have only driven the car less than 500 miles in the last 3-4 years, but it has been longer than that since I last did a fluid service. I hope it solves your problem as I do not want to look forward to swapping a master cylinder down the road.

 

Well I bled the brakes and although I could see the old fluid was slightly darker than the new fluid, both Motul 600, there was no change in the brake travel. The brakes work great it is just that there is too much travel before I feel some braking affect.
I think there is too much free travel, I can get my foot behind the pedal when it is pushed down fully so it is not really that close to the floor but still not right I feel.

 

Exactly how my Coupe feels. Like I said, brakes performed flawlessly over the weekend at Fontana Dam, but that's because I'm getting used to driving it with the current brake pedal travel. May still have to install a new Master Cylinder!

 

I have a limited and an SRT, I don’t drive the SRT very often but when I do the first stop or two gets my attention because of the pedal travel. I agree with Dave, it does stop fine but a little less travel would be good. A couple years ago on the drive to Eurika the pedal got quite low but a bleed and fresh fluid brought it back to its normal height and has been ok ever since.

 

James - New signature picture of your car looks good!

 

Dave, have you gone with stainless lines? If not, that would be my first move as it improves pedal feel drastically. With the age of the rubber lines, you may be getting some play you don't really want....

 

Thanks for the reply, I do have SS lines and they came from Rob. They would bulge as some pressure was reached, my pedal travel is too much before the system gets up any pressure. The linkage does not have any adjustment in it according to the Service Manual. Some other car systems do have adjustment in them. There is a gap between the pedal push rod and the push rid in the booster and then a gap between it and the rear brake piston and another gap between the rear and front brake pistons. Two gaps to take up before any pressure is built up. The rear brakes come on slightly at first for obvious reasons, that's what I understand anyway.
When I got the car I noticed the travel and thought that the MC was a problem and I replaced it with a used one, no change. I tried T get one from Cardone but they sent the wrong one, the rep would not believe it was wrong and said I was in error. I guess I was dealing with someone who swore that his info was 100% correct.
So six years later I am still trying to solve the problem.

 

You only need a new MC if the seals are leaking and the pedal slowly or rapidly sinks to the floor. I changed my MC and it did nothing to improve the situation.
I bled the brakes on Monday and it nothing to improve it either.
I see too much slack in the system, maybe some cars have different parts in them making the difference.
I tried someone else's car one time and it was the same as mine and they thought it fine.

 

You only need a new MC if the seals are leaking and the pedal slowly or rapidly sinks to the floor. I changed my MC and it did nothing to improve the situation.
I bled the brakes on Monday and it nothing to improve it either.
I see too much slack in the system, maybe some cars have different parts in them making the difference.
I tried someone else's car one time and it was the same as mine and they thought it fine, but my NA felt much better.

 

I keep forgetting about this point. Thanks again for reminding me. That's probably the 3rd time you've told me this point. My brake pedal definitely doesn't slowly sink to the floor. Like you, I just feel there is too much pedal travel. I haven't bled the brakes yet, so this is on my "To Do" list.

 

Well the weather cooperated this afternoon, so I washed the XFire to get rid of all the road grime collected from the trip home from 2017 Fall ToD GTG. Dried off the car & put the car cover back on. Got business trips for the next couple of weeks and no time to enjoy the car during this period.

 

Dave, I have seen this before on regular customer's cars after new brake pads have been installed for several months. My boss would have me change them out again with a different brand and the problem was resolved. My only thought is that the lining material must have some give to it when applying pressure. Once you release the brakes, the lining expands back to the regular thickness, requiring more pedal travel to reapply the pads to stop.

James