Oooooooo, you are going to like this
just found this.
how to change the 3 arm flange on trans and rearend to a bolt on yoke, so no need to change to the 4 arm flanges and bolting on flanges, just unbolting the the flanges from output shaft on trans and the flange from the pinion on rearend and install the yokes, then measure out for driveshaft
just started searching for 27 spline yokes to modify and came across this thread, of what he did.


http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/performance-paddock/255889-driveshaft-yokes.html

 

Even better news.
that thread says he used the spicer 3104-27 yoke for trans and rearend, and looking it up, that is for the chrysler 8.25" and I happen to have a 97 dakota I am scrapping out in a few weeks, that has a 8.25 with the 27 spline.

 

I am looking into this if i can do the yokes the driveshaft will cost 300. so if the yokes are less than 100 I going to do it. jim I have a rear and a tranny out of a car that i can use for filament ,,if this works we need NO pilot bushing.

 

Keep me updated.
I am hoping I get time to get the your of the 8.25 in my old Dakota to compare.
haha, wouldn't it be amazing if we could use the driveshaft from a ext cab 4x4 Dakota or ram also
but wishful thinking it be the right length, but would be cool.
but makes a lot easier that you have parts out of your car

would give a lot better option for our cars
and cheaper than rebuilding own shafts.

 

$39 brand new on EBay apiece

 

my big concern is the pilot on the tranny and the diff. that is part of the pinon on the rear end. here is the diff with yoke and without yoke.

 

That was a reason I was thinking about the 4 arm flange and bolting in a bolt on flange.
since nobody has done before, and experimental since not done before.
but has been done on other mercedes sedans.
but that part for the flex disc is not needed anymore, might as well cut it off, like what they did in that thread I sent the link, they just cut it off.
curious what the shaft length would be.
hoping I will have time this week to go to acouple transmission shops around nashville next week.
been working longer hours and not enough time after work.

 

subscribed. thanks for posting thins Jim. my car is currently stripped underneath having almost everything replaced. Driveshaft is the last part I have not dealt with yet But U-joint needs replacing before I drive it in the spring time.

I am talking with a local shop to see if they will change that -joint for me. I came across the same problem of "just buy a new driveshaft"

 

Several 27 spline yokes, some have a higher rise for the u joint that others, like the 94-01 jeep 8.25, would not have to cut all the nub off the pinion or output shaft.
Seen a spicer that looks like it would clear, but trying to find it again.

 

it they want too much u can send your short side of your driveshaft down here and my guy can fix it ,,look at your driveshaft it has two notches on it where it slips together to maintain the balance you don't need to send the whole shaft. let me know because i will check with him tomorrow to make sure he got the pinning tool. jim

 

Some are more extended than the one they used in that thread, they used one from a 8.25 Chrysler rearend.
The one for the 94-01 jeep 8.25 is more extended.
Maybe clear that pilot nub, so might not be e to cut it off.

 

tomorrow i will see if i can find the 94 to 2001 jeep, what engine and tranny do you know? today i removed a 4-point mercedes yoke from a 777-2 ,,,it with a different seal will fit the diff of the crossfire. but the jeep 94-01 is a better setup. jim

went to the track last night streetracingmadesafe I ran a 9.7 @ did not get the speed.

 

Been using the 8.25 since rely 70's.
They are either a 27 or a 29 spline, from what I have found out most newer are 29 spline.
In dakota/durango they used the 8.25 on v6 and 5.2, the 9 25 came in the 5.9 rt (had a hard time about 6 years ago trying to find a 9.25 for a dakota)
I got the 97 dakota I getting ready to scrap out winched out of the weeds and pulled it beside my shop, but ran out of time to crawl under and pull driveshaft.
I will be doing more research this week, lots of free time stuck in hotels during the week.
What is the measurement of oem driveahaft flange to flange?
How much does that shaft stick out beyond the nut?
If a wing u joint or a half round would work, that would space the u joint farther away, but never seen them in a high rpm driveshaft.

You went 9.7??
NICE
With that much torque on the driveline, I am surprised the oem driveshaft has held out.

 

yes but the 9.7 was with a 40 mph roll, ,,,like doing a street race,only we have the tree and the mph at the end of the 1/4,, i think that equals about 10.3 to a 10.5 in a 1/4 mile run . my best 1/4 mile time is 10.55 @ 132

 

Ah, still nice, what was mph with the roll?
Haha, alot better than my N/A, but I wanted a manual
Was talking with wife last night about when clutch goes out I will upgrade to the 5.0, can't do the 5.5 with the low torque rating of the nsg370.
Hars to believe with the nsg370 in the jeeps there is not a upgrade for it to handle more.
Or it would be a 5.5.

The dana axles do not have a 29 spline, need to look for the chrysler 8.25, the larger yoke is probably for more room to flex, so why it is larger in jeeps, some places say 94 - 01 some say 97 - 01 is a 29 spline and 96 and earlier 8.25 in jeep is a 27 spline.
Try a 97 - 01 Cherokee xj or liberry.
The larger grand Cherokee has dana axle I believe.
And there is also offset u joints that is made for vechicles that use more flex, if used could take another 1" - 2" off the single piece drive shaft.
The yokes have a 1310 u joint I believe, a 1310, 1330 or 1350.
Bed for me, haha still have to unpack silver fox and 5 am is not far away.
Will look up more later.

 

Depends on how large of a u joint you want, some dana 60 & 70 have 29 spline, if you want the larger 1350 or larger u joint.

Haha I have a idea (scary, I know)
That pilot, just drill and tap it, get the slip shaft just cut it down a little, slide it over and put a grade 8 bolt and washer holding the yoke on.
Or don't cut down and use a 6" long bolt,might have to put a tack weld on bolt head and washer so there is not chance to back out.
That work, hahahaha
Try that at 160 mph at 7,000 rpm

 

[QUOTE=Speedy4x4;

Haha I have a idea (scary, I know)
That pilot, just drill and tap it, get the slip shaft just cut it down a little, slide it over and put a grade 8 bolt and washer holding the yoke on.
Or don't cut down and use a 6" long bolt,might have to put a tack weld on bolt head and washer so there is not chance to back out.
That work, hahahaha
Try that at 160 mph at 7,000 rpm[/QUOTE] i think you forgot to eat breakfast your mind is running away lol.

 

A hair taller for descent price

1310 Tall, U-Bolt Style, 29 Spline | Dana 60/70 | WFOConcepts.com

This another idea 2000's ranger aluminum driveshaft, 3.5 tube 1330 joints and has the slip in dribeshaft, specs only say 61" collapsed, just have shop cut down and reballance, would be cheap.
Find our perfect 1330 yokes, and some new 1330 joints, have shaft cut and reballanced.
And bam a single piece aluminum driveshaft for
$350 - $400

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Rear-Drive-...edirect=mobile

Dana 60, 29 spline, 1330 specs

DANA SPICER 2-4-4291-1X - Pinion Yoke 1330 series for DANA 60 with 29 spline pinion gear

Would have to buy new, not good chances of finding a dana 60 in a salvage yard.
But $45 apiece not much point in wasting time looking for one in salvage yards, that if one is found, better grab the whole axle, good 60 is worth alot for offroad.

 

Lack of sleep :P
Good for a laugh, hahah
Called
Ingenuity


Cutting off the pilot off the pinion, not a big deal for me finding 3.27 gears all over, would like the 2.88 anyway.
But off the output shaft on nsg370, that would be a different story.

 

pm sent.... the pic are of the two nuts the big one thd 1 1/4 thd from the diff. and takes a #41 socket

the small nut is from the transmission and is 1 1/8 ,don't know socket because i don't have one at this time.