The siren is the round black thing mounted in the middle.
There are NO reservoirs, you are seeing water backup from clogged drains.
BE VERY CAREFUL not to knock the rubber drain tubes off by poking in the drains.
Best bet is the straightened clothes hanger with just a bit of twist on the end.
Very carefully hand rotate it down through the 4 drains.

 

Blocked drains can lead to expensive problems, that is why I often look at the drains on each side of the car for debris. Any thing I see I try and remove with those four jaw retrieving tools which also have magnet on the end. I just carefully poke it through those rubber combs at each end of the cowel.

Another little tip to remember, I wanted to run some wires through to the trunk. So I taped them to the auto transmission dip stick and poked it through the opening in the bulkhead. They went exactly where I wanted them to go, easier than trying to poke limp wires through.

 

Spoiler,


I just wrote up a thread today regarding the siren replacement.. It has the P/N# for the new updated siren that would be wise to replace if your already in there, and your current siren is original.


https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...tml#post906260

 

With much effort, I managed to clear the passenger side drain. The others appear to be holes with no tubes? In the future, I will try to clear without removing the cowl, which may be difficult. I also noticed a rubber grommet with a trap door between the main area and the smaller area near the fender. Not sure what its purpose is.



The alarm is also now disabled and I can now return the fuse to the proper slot. Thanks for the article on replacing the alarm. I may consider that in the future.



The wipers would not budge even with the faucet handle puller, until I took the advice of lifting them. I applied faucet stem grease to the splines to make it easier next time.

 

There are four drains and you must remove the cowel to do a good job.you have to get rid of all the debris unless you really do not care.
Obviously all drains have an outlet or why would they be called drains?
If they are plugged so badly you still must clear them.
The driver and passenger side drains dump the water behind the fenders and a build up of debris can be found behind the fender, this will lead to rust at some point.

 

What I meant was the ones in the middle appeared to drain into the engine compartment and were larger.

 

They do drain there, you can see one hose in the centre and the other one is in the centre but hidden further to the rear.

 

When I removed the cowl, I had to disconnect what I thought the the wire harness for the wiper motor. I reconnected it, reinstalled the cowl with some effort and changed the oil. The car drives great except nothing from the emitters and the AC/blower does not work and we are expecting low 90's for the next week.


Coincidence?

 

I think you will find the wires you disconnected were for the heaters in the windshield washer nozzles.

 

I washed the engine compartment last week after I worked on the car.


The fuses appear okay (cannot find the #9 that I removed previously due to the alarm issue ).


I was adding water to the wiper reservoir and it began to drip underneath near the passenger door hinge.

 

Perfectly normal. The filler neck connects to the tank via a joint that is not sealed, so you cannot fill it up all the way to the neck.
Owners manual says wait till the light comes on, then add one gallon.

Just let it keep leaking till it stops, or syphon some out.

 

Thanks for the info. I thought that maybe the issue with the emitters was a lack of fluid so I was surprised when I saw it dripping so soon after I began filling it.

 

I just recently went back under my cowl and re-plugged my alarm.(I had the dead battery/screaming alarm about 4 months ago and replaced the alarm at that time) Anyways, after reinstalling everything the alarm now sounds when I lock and unlock the car. However,The drivers side windshield washer is now spraying directly into the hood of the car. Any ideas guys?? Passenger side works fine!

 

The nozzle is adjusted by putting a small diameter pin/nail etc into the nozzle hole and moving it to the correct position. It is a ball shape and that is why it can turn. You can also snap open the top of the nozzle housing and remove the ball to clean it and squirt fluid through the line to clear crap out of the system.
If you did something to it though I am only guessing.


I guess people ignored you because you are a Canadian’, we have to stick together.

 

Thanks. I will give it a try.