I have owned my 2005 N/A Limited Roadster for just under a year. The car will not start if not driven every 4-5 days or so (dead battery). The used car dealer where I purchased the car replaced the battery before delivering the car to me. Apparently, it had the battery drain problem before my purchase. I can put a trickle charger on the battery and charge it for a few hours, and the car will start and run fine. I have had the battery checked, and it passes.

Referencing the numerous threads on this topic here on the Forum, I checked the amps being drawn at rest, and the meter shows ~ 190mA. Pulling the two 50 amp fuses in the engine fuse block yields the same result. Pull the 200 amp fuse, and the residual draw goes away. I then pulled each fuse (one at a time) in the underhood fuse block and the ones in the panel to the left of the headlight switch in the driver's doorjamb and observed the following: 190 mA draw until I pulled fuse #9 (Anti-Theft/Body Control Module/Dome Lamp/Cargo Lamp/Garage Opener/Tire Pressure Monitor), then the draw drops by about 100mA to approx 93-95 mA. For all other fuses, the draw is 190 mA with fuse #9 installed, and 93-95 mA with fuse #9 removed as well.

The 100 mA reduction in draw with fuse #9 removed is significant, and I will continue to investigate possible causes. My question for the experts here on the forum is:

Assuming I fix what's causing the 100 mA draw from fuse #9, is the remaining residual draw of 93-95 mA a reason to continue troubleshooting? It is a higher reading than what is considered normal. If I should continue, what do you recommend I try next?

Thanks-
​​​​​​​Tommy

 

Try unplugging the siren module ( under the wiper cowl ) for the 100 ma one, as to the remain 70 ma, not a clue.

 

Captain Tommy,

I can't be any help to you but I've had a 2005 roadster since new and I am having the same problem with batteries. For the last 3 years or so, it is never used. I probably have 100 miles in 3 years, sad! Anyway, I brought the car to the local Dodge dealership last week because I have gone through 4 batteries since January. They told me that there is no extra-ordinary drain on the battery and that they conferred with Chrysler and they agree that the numbers are good. I brought the car home last Friday, used the car on Saturday and Sunday with no issues. On Tuesday, we drove the crossfire for about 25 miles and it was raining, but it was cool so I wasn't using the air. As I was almost home, the windows started to fog so I turned on the defroster. As soon as I did, the battery light came on in the car. I turned it off. When I got home, I turned the car off and went in the house. 5 minutes later I came outside and the lights were still on. As I approached the car, the lights went off. I got in the car to put it in the garage and the battery wasn't sufficient to start the car. I checked with a volt/ohm meter and the battery read 11.56 volts. I had to jump start the car and when I did, the battery read 12.27 volts. I revved the engine and the voltage went to 12.67 and dropped down a little when I stopped revving. To me that says the alternator is working. I haven't done anything else with it since I put it in the garage.
Two things, the first is that I thought it took an inordinate amount of time for the headlights to go out on Sunday morning too. As most of the time the car sits in the garage, I don't think that the lights staying on too long is the battery issue. The other thing is that I installed a battery kill switch so the drain stops, but now I am concerned about having the battery disconnected all the time so I think I will by a battery tender with float sensor. Am I on the right track? BTW, the battery is a 2 week old Interstate.

Any ideas? Thanks!

 

<< I had to jump start the car and when I did, the battery read 12.27 volts. I revved the engine and the voltage went to 12.67 and dropped down a little when I stopped revving. To me that says the alternator is working. >>

That alternator is NOT working properly. Voltage while the engine running with a good battery, should be aprox 13.8 / 14.2 volts. 12.6 volts shut off.

 

Anything over 55ma (.055 amp) is out of spec. The ONLY way to find these is with a meter inline with the battery cable - PERIOD. You can guess all you want to, but you have GOT to put a meter in line and see what you have. You then pull fuses or connections until you find where the current is going.

Always remember that if you power the car up, it takes time for the modules to hibernate so:

• Turn key off.
• REMOVE KEY from ignition.
• Disconnect battery cable, insert ammeter
• Close doors and trunk lid.
• Observe current reading, it will be as high as 350ma
• WAIT 90 seconds.
• Observe current reading - after the 90 seconds, you should see no more than .055 amp (55ma).

If you see more than 55ma, start pulling fuses until you find out where the current is going. Always make SURE the dome light switch is set either to "normal" (dome and trunk lights go out in about 20 seconds) or "off" (disables dome and trunk lights). But STILL, you have got to wait 90 seconds - the various modules in the car take time to hibernate.

 

 

Yes, this is the method I have been using to troubleshoot. As for my progress, I have eliminated all but the Garage Opener/Tire Pressure Monitor and the Body Control Module from the items supplied by Fuse #9. I have also checked the fuses in the Relay Control Module, no change in the 190mA draw. Next task- search for the elusive Splice S233...

 

Take out the dome light and the garage door opener receiver is just behind it. Tou can unplug the dome light as well. The trunk light can be pried out of its hole in te trunk liner and unplugged.
Fifteen minutes work and you are done, who cares were the splice is if the trouble is not among the items I mention. The BCM is just one wire no sweat.

 

This is why this Forum is so valuable- it takes someone with more knowledge and experience to snap you out of a potential time sink! Thank you!

I have isolated and disconnected every item on Fuse #9 except the Body Control Module. The battery draw remains, so the BCM must be the culprit. I have no interest in spending any more time and/or money chasing this issue, for the time being. My plan going forward is to pull Fuse #9 when I park the car at home, and if I anticipate a longer term of inactivity, I'll disconnect the battery. Since the battery draw from the BCM is only a part of the total battery draw I am experiencing, and pulling all other fuses did not identify a source of the draw, if I ever decide to try to chase down unfused sources for that draw, I will report back...

 

Just an off-the wall thought but do you have the stock or a replacement radio ? Have seen aftermarket radios with the power and keep-alive leads reversed that will cause a drain.

 

Stock radio. It would have been great if that turned out to be the issue...easy-peasy!