Sub help.
Ok, here is the plan.
I have an aftermarket head unit I like installed. It is wired to the factory amp.
I hate not having separate sub control.
I was thinking about removing the factory subs and replacing them with something better that can be made to fit in the stock location.
I want to add an amp just for the subs so I can use the aftermarket head units sub control.
I plan on leaving the door speakers hooked to the factory amp.
Any ideas on what subs are good that could fit?
Also any reccomendations for a good amp to power just those subs?
Thanks
I have an aftermarket head unit I like installed. It is wired to the factory amp.
I hate not having separate sub control.
I was thinking about removing the factory subs and replacing them with something better that can be made to fit in the stock location.
I want to add an amp just for the subs so I can use the aftermarket head units sub control.
I plan on leaving the door speakers hooked to the factory amp.
Any ideas on what subs are good that could fit?
Also any reccomendations for a good amp to power just those subs?
Thanks
Wired to the factory amp... I'm guessing using the front channel of the HU to feed the amp..?
Recommendation .. break the head unit out to separate channels at the amp.. you can isolate the subs and use the factory amp. "Free" see how you like it before replacing them and adding another amp.
Recommendation .. break the head unit out to separate channels at the amp.. you can isolate the subs and use the factory amp. "Free" see how you like it before replacing them and adding another amp.
I thought the factory amp is only right and left and is high input in.
How would I run a RCA (low)from the sub out of the head unit to the factory amp and separate the subs from the factory right and left?
How would I run a RCA (low)from the sub out of the head unit to the factory amp and separate the subs from the factory right and left?
There are kicker 6.5" sub that fit, not sure on the wattage but you can mount the amp you need under the carpet where the tire repair kit is and run the wires to the speakers behind the seats underneath the carpet. I have two amps under there and there is more than enough ventilation to keep them cool.
Ok, here is the plan.
I have an aftermarket head unit I like installed. It is wired to the factory amp.
I hate not having separate sub control.
I was thinking about removing the factory subs and replacing them with something better that can be made to fit in the stock location.
I want to add an amp just for the subs so I can use the aftermarket head units sub control.
I plan on leaving the door speakers hooked to the factory amp.
Any ideas on what subs are good that could fit?
Also any reccomendations for a good amp to power just those subs?
Thanks
I have an aftermarket head unit I like installed. It is wired to the factory amp.
I hate not having separate sub control.
I was thinking about removing the factory subs and replacing them with something better that can be made to fit in the stock location.
I want to add an amp just for the subs so I can use the aftermarket head units sub control.
I plan on leaving the door speakers hooked to the factory amp.
Any ideas on what subs are good that could fit?
Also any reccomendations for a good amp to power just those subs?
Thanks
If your deck has Center Bass Freq, High Pass and Low Pass settings for rear channels, then I would just clip the Rear sub wires at the amp and run them straight to your deck, bypassing the amp and headaches of wiring RCA's completely. The stock amp puts out 22W, my aftermarket HU puts out the same, and with the adjustments mentioned you would have enough control to make it sound good. Ask me how I know
.
I think you should should replace the rear subs with regular speakers. The OEM amp is 4 channel. Beware that the rear cannels of the OEM amp are set up to run dual voice coils. There is no aftermarket 6.5 subs that have dual voice coil. I installed some kicker's and they are not as loud as the OEM speakers becuase of them not being dual voice coil. I also had to do modificaiton to the plastic basket to get them to fit.
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...rear-subs.html
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...amplifier.html
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...rear-subs.html
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...amplifier.html
Maybe ill try removing the factory amp all together.
Run the fronts to the aftermarket head unit front.
Install some speakers in the sub location and run to aftermarket head unit rear.
Run an RCA from the sub out on aftermarket head unit to an amp and make an enclosure for a traditional 10" sub in the hatch area.
I already have a false bottom in the back to hide my nitrous. I can fit an amp there no problem.
I wonder if this would give me the clarity and bass separation I am looking for.
Run the fronts to the aftermarket head unit front.
Install some speakers in the sub location and run to aftermarket head unit rear.
Run an RCA from the sub out on aftermarket head unit to an amp and make an enclosure for a traditional 10" sub in the hatch area.
I already have a false bottom in the back to hide my nitrous. I can fit an amp there no problem.
I wonder if this would give me the clarity and bass separation I am looking for.
If your deck has Center Bass Freq, High Pass and Low Pass settings for rear channels, then I would just clip the Rear sub wires at the amp and run them straight to your deck, bypassing the amp and headaches of wiring RCA's completely. The stock amp puts out 22W, my aftermarket HU puts out the same, and with the adjustments mentioned you would have enough control to make it sound good. Ask me how I know
.
If you are using an adapter to the oem stereo plug.. you can just pull a couple more wire leads from there to the amp for front - rear control and frequency adjustments if new HU is capable. If your HU has subwoofer outputs something like this will add the extra kick (link).. This setup isn't going to win you a trophy.. but you'll enjoy it more than stock. I would advise going this route.. with added amp and sub of your choice before spending more to possibly be dissapointed in the end. Basically break out the New HU - amp to 4 channels..no cost.. add the subwoofer and then spend away if you don't like it.
Infinity BassLink Powered subwoofer: 200 watts and a 10" sub at Crutchfield.com
My final .02 here...
This rides in my "trunk"..easy removal as required.. and adds plenty of bass thump.
Last edited by Mrmiata; Nov 13, 2012 at 08:47 PM.
Mrmiata I get what you are saying now. Thanks.
This is the head unit I have now.
Blaupunkt St Louis MP56 CD receiver at Crutchfield.com
This is the head unit I have now.
Blaupunkt St Louis MP56 CD receiver at Crutchfield.com
Mrmiata I get what you are saying now. Thanks.
This is the head unit I have now.
Blaupunkt St Louis MP56 CD receiver at Crutchfield.com
This is the head unit I have now.
Blaupunkt St Louis MP56 CD receiver at Crutchfield.com
Sweet.. That is what I was actually trying to find when I decided to upgrade the stereo.. Only thing I didn't like was no blue tooth.. but that wasn't a deal breaker. Just couldn't find one!
Did notice mono subwoofer out so take that into considerations on your sub. The cannon I'm running is dual channel input.
Maybe ill try removing the factory amp all together.
Run the fronts to the aftermarket head unit front.
Install some speakers in the sub location and run to aftermarket head unit rear.
Run an RCA from the sub out on aftermarket head unit to an amp and make an enclosure for a traditional 10" sub in the hatch area.
I already have a false bottom in the back to hide my nitrous. I can fit an amp there no problem.
I wonder if this would give me the clarity and bass separation I am looking for.
Run the fronts to the aftermarket head unit front.
Install some speakers in the sub location and run to aftermarket head unit rear.
Run an RCA from the sub out on aftermarket head unit to an amp and make an enclosure for a traditional 10" sub in the hatch area.
I already have a false bottom in the back to hide my nitrous. I can fit an amp there no problem.
I wonder if this would give me the clarity and bass separation I am looking for.
I do not reccomend this. The subs behind the seats are subs for a reason. Speakers are just going to be muffled by the seats, very bad, and thats if you mod them to be straight. if you leave them in the stock location facing the gas tank then it will be as if they arent even there. If anything just leave them be or get rid of them all together.
Ok I just separated the factory amp so I can use the fader control for the subs.
Going to live with it for a while and see if I like it.
Initial impression is pretty good.
Thanks
Going to live with it for a while and see if I like it.
Initial impression is pretty good.
Thanks
If your getting too much bass to the door speakers, add the capacitors.. And a remote sub and amp (like my cannon or the link to the infinity) really does add a nice touch. Mine has a remote adjuster so I can dial in more or less if I want it.. located it by my right leg just under the dash so very handy..
Very good ideas thanks.
My last crossfire I put 220 caps in it. I made it a double din and was running a pioneer avic z1
I decided not to cut this one up as my phone does everything my old head unit did.
I will locate and install some caps in this one too.
My last crossfire I put 220 caps in it. I made it a double din and was running a pioneer avic z1
I decided not to cut this one up as my phone does everything my old head unit did.
I will locate and install some caps in this one too.
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...r-avic-z1.html
This was my old setup in my limited.
It was cool but like I said I decided not to cut up the srt.
This was my old setup in my limited.
It was cool but like I said I decided not to cut up the srt.
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