It is hard to say - but any voltage in a circuit makes resistance readings unreliable. To measure for resistance, you need an UN-energized circuit. That is to say, if you are trying to measure a circuit's resistance to ground, the circuit MUST be de-energized.

 

When I tested continuity, both ends of the wiring harness were disconnected. There should not be any current passing while it's disconnected. The voltage reading came from after I hooked up the B(+) end of the connection.

 

Ok, fine. I did not get that from your post above.

 

The central locking system and a few other items are in the trunk well, passenger side. leaking water accumulates and submerges these parts, leading to a host of problems. Have you been into this space, or just run your tests from another point in the car? Try removing the rubber plug that is at the low spot under the rear and see if water runs out. If you have water check out this thread:

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...you-trunk.html

Good luck!

 

Thanks. I've been in there and it looks good and dry. I've been testing voltage and continuity to this device. I seem to have a short from the BCM to the CLP/SSM via the CAN B Bus connection (I believe it's the B+ wire).

 

I decided to say **** it and start disconnecting modules to see if I get the symptoms without the module. The CLP/SSM, and the BCM aren't the issue. With them unplugged I still have symptoms. Maybe the PCM?

 

Further unplugging of devices has targeted the issue to the Right Rear Lamp Assembly. I eliminate the symptom of the "ignition bypass" if I unplug the rear lamp. That harness is a 6 pin connector that goes to 1. Ground, 2. Headlamp switch output, 3. Right turn signal output, 4. Brake lamp relay output, 5. Backup lamp switch output, 6. n/a.

When I perform the right tail lamp inoperative tests the vehicle passes. When I complete the right stop lamp inoperative tests I get continuity from the ICM to connector 4. Testing voltage at connector 4 to ground with the brake applied should produce voltage and it does not. The connection from pin 1 to ground is good.

The repair manual suggests replacing the ICM and performing the test again. I still get the same result with the new ICM.

This is starting to look like a bad relay, since the relay output is the pin causing the issue. This is weird. My car is posessed.

 

After a road test with the right rear lamp unplugged all my problems seem to go away. Turning the headlights on does not disable the cruise control anymore. I can take the key out of the ignition with the headlights on and the brake pedal pressed and the car actually turns off. I'm gonna check the wiring harnesses tomorrow. The issue has to be coming from the rear stop lamp wiring. Disconnecting it gets rid of all the problems I've been having.

 

I removed the rear headlamp and the wiring looks good. I pulled the rear right stop lamp bulb out and put it back in. It must have been seated in the socket funny or something. Everything works fine now. I have to assume that was the issue since problems are gone.

How the hell can a light bulb cause all the **** I just went through?

 

Guess I need to pop the lights out of the wife's car and see if her dome lights - exit courtesy then work.. LOL. That is very odd!

 

If I recall properly then a stop light bulb, wrong bulb or misaligned socket has caused problems before. Is it possible that power goes backwards up a wire due to misalignment of the socket and bulb contacts due to the failure or lack of a diode? I think there are a lot of diodes in the wiring to prevent this from happening.
A diode would not be placed in the circuit if the possibility of the misalignment was not thought possible.

 

This is exactly my experience. I changed the bulb in my car and have all the issues described. Car keeps running and cruise control is not working.

 

Did you solve the problem? Or is this a request for aid?

 

Looking at the wiring diagrams, I just don't see how this can be.

To keep the car running, you need the engine control relay and fuel pump relay energized. The engine CANNOT run without those two closed.


This is a GOOD ONE. (Probably a case of the diagrams not being 100% accurate).

 

I have been panicked about the issue thinking its going to cost me an arm and leg to repair.
I replaced the right rear bulb two weeks ago and then this started happening. No cruise control ever, and the engine continues to run after turning off the car and removing the key while I still had my foot on the brake. I learned that it only happens when my foot is still on the brake. As soon as I removed my foot off the brake the engine would turnoff. The dash light failure indicator was on however every light on the exterior was working fine.

After reading this thread I replaced the right rear light bulb again without resolution. I inserted and removed the bulb a number of times to ensure it had seated properly. Finally it had a good seat and the dash indicator was no longer showing a failed light. The car now starts properly and the ignition turns the motor off off when the key is turned off.

Thanks to this thread I seem to be good to go. Have yet to try cruise control.

k

 

I was panicked when I wrote the note. I wanted everyone to know the problem is not isolated to just one event. If I had no success today I would have been asking for more hints to resolve.

Thank you for responding to my rhetoric.