Hi All,
2005 CF Limited 230,000 miles.

I've been going through the troubleshooting posted here on the forums for the past 5 days or so, but can't seem to find a solution myself. I'm hoping someone can point me in the right direction to troubleshooting.

While driving on an interstate mid stop and go traffic, the car suddenly lost power, and all remaining dashboard power while attempting to turn it over again. Got it pushed to side of road, jumpstarted from a friend, drove it home but it was obvious alternator was giving out, as it was showing flickering lights,etc. while idling at the light near my house. Replaced alternator (REFURBISHED, from RockAuto) and the car dies on me again while driving, a couple days later. This time I'm far from home, get towed. Check all cabling to alternator, terminal field connector to positive was loose. (This is my own fault, first timer...) At this point, it won't attempt to CRANK, even after charging the battery. Try to jump it, nothing. Replace battery, same thing. no crank no start. I also tried to jump the starter solenoid via the Pulse Modulator pin with a power probe, but couldn't get the started to click at all. (ordered a new starter as well)

So at this point is where I start pulling codes. First thing I notice is a 1040 NO CAN communication with PCM. I went ahead and resoldered the RCM, with no results. I ordered a replacement RCM just in case as the Car is showing it's age. Swapped new RCM in, still no crank. After putting in the new RCM and checking codes, I was flooded with DTCs. below is the full list...

ESP
1170 Steering Angle Sensor Malf.
1172 Steering Angle Sensor Malf.
1212 CAB System Over Voltage
1352 YAW Rate/Acceleration Sensor -
1210 CAB System Under Voltage
1035 No Steering Angle Message
1178 Sensor Cluseter: Guidance Angle Code Error
1160 YAW Rate/Acceleration Sensor YAW Rate Electrical Error
1174 Steering Angle Sensor Malf.
1175 Steering Angle Sensor Malf.
Airco
1227 Ambient Temperature Sensor Circuit
1231 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Circuit
1422 No Communication From Instrument Cluster
BCM
1121-04-04 Right Power Window Switch Stuck
1100-02-02 Key FOB Internal Failure Open Button Shorted
1010-09-09 BCM System Under Voltage
1011-00 BCM Sytem Over Voltage
1268-00 ABS Speed Signal Not Valid
1491-01-01 Rear Spoiler Failure Runtime Error
1493-02-02 Warning Chime Circuit Short To Ground Or Open
Central Locking Pump
1436-0E-14 Slow Response - Passenger Door/Liftgate Actuator
1436-0C-12 Slow Response - Drive Door Lock Actuator
1709-00 Siren Not Connected Or Open Circuit
1712 Alarm Triggered by left door
1725 Alarm Triggered by tow away protection
1711 Alarm Triggered by Hood
1726-00 Alarm Triggered by interruption of battery power
1277 Intrusion Sensor Not Present Not Valid For UK
1132 Alarm Triggered by Glove Compartment
Instrument Panel
1040 NO CAN Communication With PCM
1470-01 Fuel Level Sensor Error Text

At this point I think I'm looking at a some kind of electrical error but I don't have a good idea of where to start. I've downloaded the manuals and started looking through the wiring diagrams but in the mean time hoping someone here has some ideas.


Thank you,

 

Unfortunately, I do not have a solution for you, but a bit of caution for the future.
Our cars are snowflakes with respect to electrical. Do yourself a huge favour, never apply a set of jumper cables to the car. Best to flatbed (tow) the car and charge the battery.
the number of codes is frightening but I wonder if there are many that are stored from previous issues. There are a lot of members with ton of electrical experience. I hope have a positive outcome.

 

I thought battery, but I see you've replaced it.
It still could be a low voltage problem, which could cause many problems including no crank and engine cutoff.
Have you checked your ground cable connections? There's a ground strap under the car that goes from the transmission to the frame. It usually gets corroded because of it's location.
That's all I can think of.

 

I spent over 25 years troubleshooting electro-mechanical equipment and I don't know what a "terminal field connector" is, but it appears you let the battery connection fail, meaning the electrical system was at the mercy of the voltage regulator in the alternator. This means system voltage could have shot as high as 60 volts. If this is the case, the ECU and other modules probably took damage.

It is impossible to troubleshoot THIS remotely. Some of those codes imply a CAN BUS failure, again, the can be in any of the modules on that bus. I'd call the guys at the MSS and follow their advice, no local garage is going to 'fix' this.

GO here, give James and Josh a call:
https://themercedesswapshop.com/

This is the kind of thing they do for a living.

 

One quick check of the CAN BUS is to back probe the C4 connector on the PCM at pins 1 and 11 - if you measure 60 ohms, your CAN BUS C is okay. Here's a link to a no crank issue caused by a CAN BUS failure
-Jerry
no crank, black rectangel/square in the IC - CrossfireForum - The Chrysler Crossfire and SRT6 Resource

 

Hi Everyone,

I've talked to Josh at MSS and have spent some more time on the car this weekend. Went through fuses, checked resistance and everything seems to be in order. Checked the ground cablings from power steering pump, battery, all good there, no corrosion.

Still suspecting a bad starter, I got my brother to come over and got the car jacked up. From underneath, we we're able to tap the starter with a socket drive extension, and the starter began attempting to turn over, but just one or two clicks at a time. Each time I would hit the starter, all dash lights would turn off (except parking brake) , and the starter would put load on the battery. (left a multimeter on the windshield). I swap places with him, and sure enough, it looks like the starter is causing a short within the system. Some very erratic symptoms, but overall everything is pointing to a failing starter. Pretty fair for 230k miles...

So, with that being said, I'll be attempting to replace the starter in the driveway over the next few days. If anyone has any tips or tricks for removal I would gladly accept them. It looks like it will give me a run for my money, hoping I don't have to end up towing it to the local shop..

Sending me any additional videos for reference to the swap would be appreciated as well.

I'm aware of Paul's recent video about this, and the workaround for not dropping the exhaust...