Thanks to all for your responses and suggestions. I tested the 50 amp fuse again with my multimeter and there was continuity on all 3 fuses located in front of battery on passenger side. I also have 12v coming into the fan relay module harness. On my way to Auto Zone to check for a diagnostic trouble code....I REALLY hope it's not the module, but it's doesn't look good.

Kara

 

did you jump start this new fan directly from the battery to see if it worked? If it does, then just replace the fuse anyways. For some reason I am still thinking it is the fuse. If not, then I say your module is bad

It doesnt make sense though, you saqid your fan was stuck (possible bad bearing) if it got stuck, I am alsmot positive, the fuse would get blown due to that.

Just get a fuse from autozone while you are there and replace it just for the heck of it.

 

Went to Auto Zone, no codes, and no 50 amp fuse. The guy said he had never seen anything like that in his life! Great! So I then went to Advance Auto and was told it's a "dealer only part" GRRRR

Kara

 

Kara, that sucks. Did you try jump starting the new fan and see if it works? (i am sure it does but just to make sure). For some reason, I am thinking if you replace the fuse, it should work...

50 amp part# 5135816AA

call dealers and go get one.

 

If you know what clip leads-test leads are you could hot wire the motor for a FEW seconds to see that the fan is good before you get too far down the line. Basically you unplug the fan connector and apply 12 volts to the fan. Polarity is not an issue so + and - wont matter FROM THE FANS PERSPECTIVE.

If you wanna pm me with a phone number a specific EST time, I could assist you on the phone if you like, again assuming you wanna do the clip lead tests.

Fans are basically a DC motor fed from the fan module on the driver fender which is a pwm controlled power source ranging from about 4 volts outputs to about 12 volts at MAXIMUM fan speed ( Scary fast at 12 v).

Enjoy Woody

 

Thanks so much for all of your help, guys! I am still going to try and order a 50 amp fuse even though it is still good, I will likely have to order it though as Musclefan suggested. Woody, thanks so much for offering to walk me through testing the new fan! I just tested it with my clip lead and it ran just as it should. (12v through the battery) I also went ahead and tested the old fan again and sparks flew, but the fan did not turn. That leads me to believe that the fan motor may have seized and then "allegedly" fried the module?? Looks like that is the only other "suspect"....I'll keep you guys posted!
The part # listed on the module is A 025 545 59 32...only found one online source for the part @ around $230 and it is listed as a "Mercedes MSA Control", anyone know of any other sources for this part?



Kara

 

I doubt that is the case. My fan motor's bearings were all messed up. it was stuck like yours, wobbling and sparkling, etc. Mine would have fried the module as well but it didnt. Heck it didnt even do anything to the fuse nor the module. I put the new fan and it ran.

I hope your module is fine. Let start with fuse. if the new fuse doesnt fix it, I am afraid only one more thing left to try and thAt is the module.

 

I should be getting my fan motor in today after a week + of waiting...they are getting negged for sure! IT BETTER WORK TOO!

 

Why not order it here: Chrysler Parts Direct - Chrysler, Dodge, Jeep Parts and accessories (as mentioned on the previous page) It's 187.00 on this page. This is a German car it is typically very hard to find parts for any German car at the local Pep Boys or Napa. Sometimes you can get away with certain parts from these places if you live in a location where european cars are fairly common.

 

It will work. Mine works but they are getting negged by me as well. Let me know if you need help. The switches do not connect well. Mine didn't. I had to tape them together.

 

The fan works and everything is fine but in this whole process I lost both of my radiator fan clips to keep it in place currently it is jiggling I tried to mock something up to work with no luck I think I might just screw two screws in both sides to keep it in place. The dealership doesn't have them in stock and they are something along the lines of $7 each for a piece of metal weighing about 1 ounce lol redic...But no lights on since the fan has been in and the fan is working. The connections didn't click together for me either I just left them it's tight as hell when you put them together so I highly doubt they will disconnect. Feel's good to be driving a fully working car again lol. I negged the Ebay vendor already they deserved it.

 

If you guys got your fans from the same vendor and the connectors wont lock, they must be using the wrong, or incomplete, connector. It is supposed to have a locking tab. You could take the connector from the old fan and put it on the new fan so it locks like it should....

 

Everything fits into place like it should the tabs are just a few mm short of clicking in. I wasn't going to try to jam it in as far as I could. I got the fan to get clipped down using trailer hitch locks it seems to be holding right now. So all is well for now!

 

He got negged by me as well. If he was at least nice and didnt ignore my emergency emails. Then he would have gotten a positive feedback. Oh well.

Glad to hear you got it taken care of. Yeah, it does feel pretty good.

 

I'm having the same problem with my new fans connector. I don't know which brand you all bought but mine is made by Dorman. After comparing the factory connector with the new one, there seems be a slight difference in the connector design with the Dorman.

 

Problem Fixed!

Film at 11........




Kara