My car was showing some problems starting like trying to turn over and would't start but after waiting 5 minutes it would start and run just fine. Gradually it happened more until now when I turn the key it's like the starter is bad no noise no nothing. I took it to my mechanic and he said the starter was fine and he can't figure out what the problem is.

He mentioned a "Pulse module" but he said it's a $250 part and it's only a guess. I figured I'd ask on here. I have been having problems with my alarm system for a while now about 6 months, alarm randomly goes off. I disconnected the horn so I wouldn't hear it any more. Would that affect it at all? Also from what I found out from when the alarm first started going off and I took it to the dealer they said the "SKREEM" Module needed replaced. Is it possible that the "SKREEM" module completely died and is stopping the car from starting? I read on here that disabling the alarm system would make the car not start.

Do you guys believe it could be the "SKREEM" module finally died after about 7 months of randomly going off? Reason why I didn't fix it the dealer wanted $1000 to repair the module, I knew I could get it cheaper else where. Just put it off for to long.

Or do you think it's the "Pulse" module my mechanic mentioned?

Or something else entirely?

Thanks

 

anyone ???? nobody has any help for this guy ???? wish I knew !!!!

 

I would.. but he'd have to consider the source from what I've heard..

 

I recently had problems with my 2007 roadster not starting, radio, instrumentment panel and headlights all worked but car would not start (no noise at all). Dealer said it was "SKREEM" but I didn't have any of the typical symtoms. However they replaced the door lock module part #05099541AA and it fixed my problem. Not sure if your problem is the same. My car was running fine, parked it on a Friday and next time I went out would not start.

 

Well, an RCM resoldering would be a good idea as a first step. Easy and cheap, it is often the cause of "No Cranks" and some "Cranks but no start".

The pulse module DOES do the job of energizing the starter, but I don't know that, in four years on here, I've ever heard of one going bad.

 

I pulled my RCM out all solders looked great. Almost brand new looking. It was diagnosed with a bad SKREEM before. I'm getting it towed to the dealer on December 4th. All the quick fixes didnt seem to work. Checking RCM removing IOD fuse among other things. Nothing seemed to work.

I'm assuming my SKREEM went bad at least I hope that's what it is. Rather that then say the PCM.

 

Those solder joints on the corner of the RCM may look good but often the stem coming through the baord has broken away from the actual solder. You cannot tell without a magnanimity glass. I would do a touch of solder on that connection and see if that takes care of it.

 

Well I don't have the means to solder at the moment. It goes in the shop on December 4th I'll see what they say is wrong with it. If they say RCM I'll just solder those two joints if I can. Though I know my SKREEM is bad my alarm was constantly going off for no reason even while driving. I unplugged the horn so the noise would stop and forgot about it. That was a while ago. I'm thinking the SKREEM just finally gave out, since the last time I had it diagnosed they said the SKREEM needed replaced but I didn't want them to do it cause they wanted $850 for a $142 part and ridiculous amount for labor. The book time is 1.9 hours to change it no way it should cost $850 so I passed.

Called the dealer its going to now and they said they can install the SKREEM and program it for $250 a big difference. So I'm going to see if when they diagnose it that it's the SKREEM again and not something else then I'll go from there.

I'll keep posted on what I find out.

 

BTW, the alarm has nothing to do with the horns, unplugging them is no help.
To disable the alarm module itself, you have to remove the plastic cover under the wipers and unplug it.
It is the 2" round plastic thing just to the passenger side of center.

 

That you just described is the alarm horn which I did unplug. Need a torx screw to unscrew the plastic thing and there's one plug plugged into it. That doesn't disable the alarm. The alarm still goes off just silences it. You can't actually disable the alarm on this car. If you do the car won't start hence why I am hoping it went bad.

 

Just a thought.. and those that need to consider the source feel free to correct me.. But I have yet to see a Skreem module play games. They go out and your dead in the water. Your horn-alarm issue is most likely a totally different issue.. as in dead alarm backup battery.

I do believe EVERY case of bad Skreem takes you to 2 cranks and pull battery cable.

But hey it's your diagnostic and tow fee..

 

I have AAA so no tow fee, but according to this diagram I have the RCM PCM SKREEM and Pulse module connect to each other that connect to the starter. If one is bad or is a hiccup in one the car won't start.

All the alarm issues I've had on the forums here pointed to the SKREEM module. So I had it diagnosed before I had this problem and they said the SKREEM was bad and needed replaced.

A few people on this forum have pointed SKREEM to no start I think some one on this thread said he had his in the door replaced and fixed the no start issue.

Thanks for your information though. Diagnoses will only be $70 and of it will find out what's actually wrong I'll be okay with that. My personal mechanic couldn't figure it out. So I have no other choice. I've done most of what I've read as fixes for "mystery no start" to no avail.

 

Well hopefully your experience then will add to the "Skreem" knowledge base. Seems like they just started popping up as an issue in the last year or so. So it's not like we have everything there is to one on the records here. Do get back to us with what they find.. still waiting on a "no dome light timeout" from two months ago.. LOL

 

Lol I know definitely get back tobyou in what I find and the prices. I know I like to know how much an issue cost to prepare so I'll let every one know.

 

Just another little oddity to this also.. a couple of memebers have come back with a price of right at $600 for the skreem replacement.. and not telling you what to do..or questioning the repair shops ability.. but there is a "secret" code in the skreem that has to be retrieved and programmed into the new one.. or else it's new key time also.. that is in the service manual..

 

I can't WAIT to see how THIS works out for you.
I've never heard of this before - this wouild mean the SKREEM is nothing more than $150, since an hour-minimum of labor is close to $100.

I half expect you to be P I S S E D when they hand you the bill. If not, then we all need to know the name of the dealer!

 

I expected it to be more myself like what I was originally told. I called the dealer and gave them the part number 05099541AA said it was for the SKREEM module. I asked for the price. Said 182 but my mechanic gets a 22% discount so it would be 141 he said. I asked for the book time. He said 1.5 hours. So estimate for the whole thing he told me would be $250 + tax. I couldn't believe it myself so I called 2 more dealers and all said the same thing some were higher cause of per hour labor charges but all with in $250-350.

 

Mopar Part 05099541AA DOOR LOCK MODULE

Are you in witness protection?

 

What so you mean witness protection?
CONTROL. Door Lock. .
Security / WSP Module, Skreem Module that's what I get for the part.
http://www.factorychryslerparts.com/products/CONTROL-Door-Lock-Security--WSP-Module--Skreem-Module/4299988/05099541AA.html

When the diagnosed my SKREEM was bad in the shop that's the part number they gave me.

 

05099541AA Mopar DOOR LOCK MODULE $125.35
It is not the SKREEM.