stoppd for gas last night. when i tried to start the car....NOTHING. everything electrical works, but won't start as if not getting power to starter.

non turbo, 6 speed, 45K

your thoughts/suggestions please.

 

Do the simple thing first. Check to make sure the battery terminals are clean and tight.

 

Doc is right, and be sure and follow the battery ground cable to the chassis, make sure it is clean and tight.

Then....
Broken solder connections on the Relay Control Board will mean no power to the input to the PTCM, and that means no signal to the pulse module - which is what 'keys' the starter. Pulling the RCB (it is in the big box next to the battery, RCB is the one farthest from the battery), look at the solder connections. Fractured connections are usually visible to the naked eye.

 

Howdy folks. I'm having the same issue as oldtimer48. Stopped for gas, then the engine would turn over and immediately cut off. It would allow me to do this 2 or 3 times, then nothing. Radio, gauges etc all seem to be working properly. 12.4 volts at battery terminals. Brushed terminals & tightened. Nothing. Then, removed negative cable for @ 1 minute and re-connected. Again, it cranked and immediately cut off 2 or 3 more times, then...nothing, yet all radio, gauges etc. still working properly. Removed RCM, inspected all solders and they all appeared to be in good shape; hit 'em all with my solder gun anyway (just to beef them up to prevent this future, seemingly common issue). Tried disconnecting both cables for half an hour to kill battery back-up (thus re-setting computer), same result. I've heard SKREEM, Crankshaft Position Sensor...WHAT ARE WE LOOKING AT HERE GUYS? Any luck with your issue oldtimer48? Don't want to just start throwing $ at it to see what sticks! Drop some knowledge on me!!!

 

First thing I'd put a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail and watch while trying to start.

Back in the day cars had two circuits for ignition, a normal "run" circuit often through a ballast resistor and a direct connection to give max voltage when starting. If the resistive line went bad it would spin on the starter and start to catch but quit as soon as you backed off the key. The Crossifire has a Pulse module that turns off the starter circuit when the engine starts.

So please be very precise about what is happening. Do you feel it try to start every time or just some of the time ?

If it quits entirely after a number of tries I would strongly suspect that the computer decided to quit attempting (why removing the battery reset) and if so I would expect there to be a trouble code set.

(By now I would expect that everyone posting has a way to read trouble codes since you problable can have for $20 and worst case $70 (Ultraguage) though good but old Android tablets with Bluetooth and access to the play store or an older Windows XP laptop are a dime a dozen these days).

 

You are looking at a fault that involves the SKREEM, it will allow you to try and start the car three times, if the security system does not receive the correct signal from the key chip the car will not even attempt to start again. Disconnecting the battery erases the memory of the no start and lets you try again.
Most problems are because the SKREEM unit has failed. Another cause would be the halo ring around the ignition switch failing or it has become disconnected from the SKREEM. Yet another reason would be the wrong key or a missing chip or faulty chip inside the key fob.

 

+++1 Totally spot on with what you are dealing with. And normally requires the dealer if the Skreem module itself has gone bad. Most have reported right at a $600 date to fix.

 

If the SKREEM (SENTRY KEY REMOTE ENTRY MODULE) you should have an error code 2071 set. (See "Start Enable not Sent"). There is a long section starting on page 8E-60 of the 2005 FSM (online) for diagnosis.

Is this it ?
"CYLINDER. Ignition Lock. . [SKREEM] Module / Also Serviced With Key Set. Stock Code 68023969AA ; 68006984AA "
The other one I find is
"CONTROL. Door Lock. . CHRYSLER CROSSFIRE. Security / WSP Module, Skreem Module. Stock Code 05099541AA "


ps None of the 20xx error codes seem to be in the service manual, does anyone have a list ?

 

Per the downloadable service manual..

DRB III is required for Skreem diagnostics. So unless you live by someone that happens to have this.. trip to the dealer.

I suspect in this thread.. someone failed to re attach the wire to the skreem from the little receiver ring at the ignition switch..

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...or-2071-a.html

 

You don't need a tool to read the schematic, check for power and ground, or clean the connectors. I have rarely needed to stimulate the serial data link.

 

+1

Unless someone just did the sticky key mod and left the ring disconnected, this will be a trip to the dealer.

And OH how I hate to say that....

 

Ooph! So, gathering from your helpful replies, I need to check the connections at the halo (in steering column?) and at the SKREEM (accessed through the cowl?). Anything I should pay particular attention to besides the connections themselves? Also, anyway to eliminate a possible fouled chip in the key? If none of the previously mentioned possibilities provide a remedy, I need to tow it to the dealership to replace the SKREEM, right?

 

Skreem is accessed through tearing the dash out.. unless someone has been playing around under the dash and came 'just short" of pulling it loose, and you stopped and went to restart the car and it came loose at that point. . . not much chance of it just coming off.. A secondary key would be the only way to confirm the chip.. but then again I've not heard of the RFID chip "going bad".. Dealer is your best bet for the skreem replacement. It also generates a code to match to the chip.. which when replaced correctly they can retrieve this code enabling your continued use of current key instead of also having to purchase one to go with the new module.

But there is the option mentioned above.. just tear the interior out of the car and proceed to diagnose yourself..

 

So, given the option of going to a Mercedes dealer or a Chrysler dealer, which is the prefered choice? I guessing Mercdes!

 

Guess again grasshopper.. bet you get it right this time..

Proprietary software.. Chrysler has you by the gonads at this point. Not to mention 9 out of 10 Mercedes dealers apparently enjoy looking down their noses when you ask them about service for a Chrysler.

 

If it was a lot of other troubles, some MB dealers would be able to help.
And independent shops that work on MBs are usually very helpful - but a SKREEM issue is a Chrysler-dealer-only thing, as far as I know.

 

I removed the lower end of the dash to access the Skreem connection at the ignition and all's well. My local Mercedes dealer said they could possibly order the part for me if I could bring them the Mercedes part # (not the Chrysler part #5099541AA), but they would not be able to perform the service. My local Chrysler dealership will perform the service ($230 for 2 hrs) and could get the part for $191.10; HOWEVER, this part is very hard for them to get and will likely arrive between 1 week and 3 months. Yeah, 3 months. I was told that it will have to be MADE in Germany and then shipped to them. ALSO, they can't order it until I have my car towed to their lot and they run a diagnostic test on it first. Never heard of such. But at this point, what choice do I have? My understanding is that the dealership is the only one who can program a virgin module to sync with your car(key). As for now, I'm trying to find the corresponding Mercedes part# to see if they can get it cheaper/faster. Taking suggestions...

 

When I say, "all's well", I meant that there's no apparent issue with the connection at the ignition. Sorry if I worded that weird!

 

Might ask one of the tuners if they can reprogram the ECU to not need a SKREEM, probably just takes a subroutine.

That's the thing about computer cars, once reverse engineered, you can do anything. They really are not that complicated, I reprogrammed my Buicks to run cooler and even fixed a friend's to replace the automagic with a Getrag.

 

Geez...anybody know the correct part# for the 2004 SKREEM? I think the guy at the dealership is searching for a left door lock module #5099541AA. Not getting off to a good start here. It would be helpful if I had the corresponding Mercedes part# as well, for competitive pricing. I think I'm about to get worked over...