When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hello,
I am from the other side of the world, a new member from Spain.
A friend give me her car, a Chysler Crossfire 3.2 218hp manual with 420.000 Km with a transmision problem (clutch, in my opinion).
I will repair it in my house, but first I come here to be advised about the previous checkings before open the clutch.
Of course, Iīve read this topic. https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...-04-coupe.html
I would like to explain the main problems of the car:
The main problem, car doesnīt move. You can pick one gear, and release the clutch pedal. It wonīt move, and It wonīt cut out.
So in my opinion, i think it is a clutch problem, but I donīt know if dual mass flywheel can be broken and not transmiting move. Should I check something more? (Hydraulics may be?)
Other problem, car trunk canīt be closed, I find some info about the closing mechanism in the car floor, under the trunk mat (may be dry and clean?)
The less important problem is that under the rain, the car roof gets wet. Front windshield, upside the windscreen is missing, could it be a reason?
Finally, I post a picture from the car carried by the crane.
Hello!
Can anyone give me a clue?
I am thinking about the slave cylinder, or a pressure problem from the hydraulic fluid, this week I think I am going to release the clutch disc.
This sounds like a simple mechanical clutch failure to me. Personally, I have never heard of this happening to one of our cars in the ten years I've been on this forum, but it stands to reason that the clutch is simply disengaged - for some reason, due to some failure.
I think the only option you have is to tear into it and see what you have. Look at the good side: This is a mechanical issue, so you will have no electrical mystery to figure out, like we do MOST of the time with these cars.
This is simply mechanical - and I do not see how it can be ANYTHING but a clutch failure.
This sounds like a simple mechanical clutch failure to me. Personally, I have never heard of this happening to one of our cars in the ten years I've been on this forum, but it stands to reason that the clutch is simply disengaged - for some reason, due to some failure.
I think the only option you have is to tear into it and see what you have. Look at the good side: This is a mechanical issue, so you will have no electrical mystery to figure out, like we do MOST of the time with these cars.
This is simply mechanical - and I do not see how it can be ANYTHING but a clutch failure.
Thank you!
What about slave cylinder on the gearbox?
Despite of this problem, the car has 400.000Km (260.000 miles) and obviously, it has some problems which I will try to fix little by little (car trunk door doesnīt close, water leaks under rain...), but I will enjoy a 218hp v6 engine by the prize of a clutch, thatīs perfect!
Your English is far better than my Spanish, but I am confused about the clutch symptoms. With the car shut off, when you depress the clutch pedal does the car come out of gear and allow you to shift through the 6 forward and the reverse gears?? If it disengages and shifts I doubt it is the hydraulics, throw-out bearing, or mechanicals.
Does the vehicle roll in neutral? Does it roll in 6th gear the same or with resistance? If there is some resistance then it sounds like the clutch is engaging. If it does not roll at all in 6th, then something is wrong and I cannot guess what at this point.
I did have the shift cable fall off my transmission some years back. I could only drive it in 3-4-5-6 gear. They re-attached the cable, adjusted it, and it shifted better than new.
No idea what is wrong with the trunk because it looks shut when it is on the "crane" (we call it a tow truck). Do you mean it does not lock?
There should be silver plastic around the top and sides of the windshield. If the top piece is missing, then it is very possible that it is leaking water through some part of the windshield.
The car looks great and while 420k/km is a lot, if it has been cared for you should be able to double those miles. I don't visit the forum much anymore but you can email me at jjaiven@gmail.com with questions. I'll try to help.
Your English is far better than my Spanish, but I am confused about the clutch symptoms. With the car shut off, when you depress the clutch pedal does the car come out of gear and allow you to shift through the 6 forward and the reverse gears?? If it disengages and shifts I doubt it is the hydraulics, throw-out bearing, or mechanicals.
Does the vehicle roll in neutral? Does it roll in 6th gear the same or with resistance? If there is some resistance then it sounds like the clutch is engaging. If it does not roll at all in 6th, then something is wrong and I cannot guess what at this point.
I did have the shift cable fall off my transmission some years back. I could only drive it in 3-4-5-6 gear. They re-attached the cable, adjusted it, and it shifted better than new.
No idea what is wrong with the trunk because it looks shut when it is on the "crane" (we call it a tow truck). Do you mean it does not lock?
There should be silver plastic around the top and sides of the windshield. If the top piece is missing, then it is very possible that it is leaking water through some part of the windshield.
The car looks great and while 420k/km is a lot, if it has been cared for you should be able to double those miles. I don't visit the forum much anymore but you can email me at jjaiven@gmail.com with questions. I'll try to help.
Hello,
Thank you for your reply, you should practicate your Spanish, this topic is a good place haha.
About the car...
Iīve noticed that I can push and move the car even geared (it doesnīt matter what gear is applied). Push the car geared is not complicate, it seems to be in neutral.
Also i have seen I can move one rear wheel with my hand, and the other wheel doesnīt move, I donīt know if diferential is free on this car, or it could be a problem. By oving only one wheel, I move the transmision cardan meanwhile other wheel keeps unmoved.
I am looking for windshield but is too expensive, not a problem right now because car doesnt move, and it will be a weekend car, I donīt care about it at the moment.
And finally, yes, you're right, the trunk doesnīt lock.
I am most puzzled about the car rolling freely when in any gear. It should not do that. Even a badly worn clutch will slip, but there should be some resistance. (My experience was burning out the clutch in an Audi A6, the clutch would slip - the engine revolutions would shoot up rapidly without corresponding car movement - under hard acceleration. It sounds like the clutch is not engaging at all. Why is the question. Mechanically, when you depress the clutch pedal it should move the release or throw-out bearing which pushes the clutch plate away from the flywheel. This disengages the clutch plate so you can shift gears. It sounds like the throw out bearing is stuck so that the clutch plate is unable to contact the flywheel. Or maybe the hydraulic portion is empty or failed. You will need to [carefully] get under the car and check out the mechanical and hydraulic linkages to make sure they are properly connected and if they operate. I cannot tell you if it is possible to view the clutch/flywheel assembly because I have never disassembled them, but someone on the forum may be able to answer.
I assume when you turned the rear wheel, you had the car jacked so both wheels were off the ground. These cars do not have a positraction - the wheels are not connected in the differential. I think that is what you mean by the "differential being free". As long as both rear wheels turn independently, it sounds like your rear end is ok.
Finding windshield trim pieces is a problem here, too. Generally you have to buy them from either a car being "parted out" or a junkyard. I think I saw a recent post in this forum about a car being parted - do a search and contact the poster.
You should verify this answer by a search on this forum, but I believe the trunk lock operates via a vacuum line. It is possible the line is disconnected or has a hole in it.
You should download the service manual. Again, by searching this forum you should be able to find a link. It might be in one of the sticky notes at the top of the forum topics. It's a 82Mb pdf file with lots of technical information.
And i downloaded lot of information from this forum. The Crossfire is a very pretty and good car, but in Europe is hard to see, so I will check this forum about parts (impossible to find in junkyard)
Of course, this car was running on the highway and got damaged. I will disassembly the car and check the clutch after controling the fluid level.
At the moment I have not time, until april second week I wonīt start.
Sorry for this time, I didnt enought time to repair the car.
After check de transmission axis, I found the problem.
The coupler/transmission doesnt fit on the output axis of the gearbox.
I am disassemblying it, this night i Will post more picts.
I am most puzzled about the car rolling freely when in any gear. It should not do that. Even a badly worn clutch will slip, but there should be some resistance. (My experience was burning out the clutch in an Audi A6, the clutch would slip - the engine revolutions would shoot up rapidly without corresponding car movement - under hard acceleration. It sounds like the clutch is not engaging at all. Why is the question. Mechanically, when you depress the clutch pedal it should move the release or throw-out bearing which pushes the clutch plate away from the flywheel. This disengages the clutch plate so you can shift gears. It sounds like the throw out bearing is stuck so that the clutch plate is unable to contact the flywheel. Or maybe the hydraulic portion is empty or failed. You will need to [carefully] get under the car and check out the mechanical and hydraulic linkages to make sure they are properly connected and if they operate. I cannot tell you if it is possible to view the clutch/flywheel assembly because I have never disassembled them, but someone on the forum may be able to answer.
I assume when you turned the rear wheel, you had the car jacked so both wheels were off the ground. These cars do not have a positraction - the wheels are not connected in the differential. I think that is what you mean by the "differential being free". As long as both rear wheels turn independently, it sounds like your rear end is ok.
Finding windshield trim pieces is a problem here, too. Generally you have to buy them from either a car being "parted out" or a junkyard. I think I saw a recent post in this forum about a car being parted - do a search and contact the poster.
You should verify this answer by a search on this forum, but I believe the trunk lock operates via a vacuum line. It is possible the line is disconnected or has a hole in it.
You should download the service manual. Again, by searching this forum you should be able to find a link. It might be in one of the sticky notes at the top of the forum topics. It's a 82Mb pdf file with lots of technical information.
Hello,
I"ve been working with the central lock.
After put 2 CR2025 New batteries on the fob, the intermittent lights blink when a key is pressed, but nothing happens.
There was no fuse, so put a 20A yellow fuse and testes again, still not working... The central locking seems dead.
By the way, the passenger Door does not locks/unlocks by the key, I have to manually open/close
What should I check?
There are two different modules related to the locking, a Delphi unit and the vacuum pump with 3 outputs.
If I got an used unit (Delphi or Vacuum pump?) Will I need pair it with a computer?
Thank you!
If not to bad, sometimes a triangle file can get the threads smoothed enough to get it.
Threads for the nutt done, transmission and exhaust mounted and car running.
I have fear of a new failure. The intermediate bearing support is quite damaged, could it generate a new failure?
The single piece aluminium shaft is not dangerous for the gearbox/differential? There are not any vibration absorber or flexible parts (coupler, intermediate articulation...)?
Did you notice some strange noise when the rear part take a bump on the road? I think you are making an overexerting the internal transmision/differential bearings, as you are coupling two axis which are not parallel, donīt you?
Congrats on your fix and back together, a running.
The center carrier bearing is usually the 1st to go, you can tell when the rubber surround on the bearing is out, when you accelerate and you hear and feel a bumping / clanking sound.
When I switched to my aluminum single piece driveshaft, I got rid of the flex discs also and have 2 standard 1310 u joints on both ends.
Transmision problem
