I thought you were using rigid coupler between gearbox and differential!

Yesterday I tested the Crossfire and when accelerating or faster than 60km/h I can feel a quite noticeable vibration, the flex discs and/or intermediate bearing I think it is the reason.
Well, I will expend about 160€ in changing couplers and intermediate bearing. Should I test any more?

 

The aluminum plates where just adapter plates I made to convert the 3 bolt to a 4 bolt, to attach the flange yokes.

The the vibration, just under acceleration ?
Usually the the rubber surround around the carrier bearing bad, then will be under acceleration, harder you accelerate the more stress on the driveshaft and more banging.
Usually if driveshaft is out, it is a good time to change out the wearable parts.
If you call around driveshaft shops and ask if they have the pin tool to change the u joint, then that would be everything.
Most people change out the whole driveshaft.
Can crawl underneath and just check and make sure everything is tight, and try and shake around front rear and the middle.

 

I know this a old thread but I swear this sounds like my problem. With out repeating all thats been said. My car acts just like the drive has come apart. Shifting was fine and all of sudden no more movement except coasting. Car shift fine. When clutch is pushed in. Just does not move. I already bled all brake lines and slave cylinder and still save issue..also if car is in gear it will not roll freely. I will keep you updated as I plan to work on it this week. Miss my girl

 

Hello,
If it has my problema, It is very simply to check.
Just elevate one side and start the car. Put any gear and go under the car, you have to check if the gearbox output is moving and if is attached correctly to the output flange.
Mine esa repaired and after 5000 miles It is working fine

Check It! Spare esa 150$ at MB dealer

 

First, jacking up half the car and then going underneath while it is running and in gear is very dangerous.

Analyzing your symptoms:
1) You recently changed fluid and/or bled your brake system, which shares fluid with the clutch master cylinder.
2) When the car is in gear, it is difficult to roll.
3) When depressing the clutch pedal, nothing happens. You cannot change gears?

Starting in the middle (2), if the car is in gear it should be difficult to roll. If you can get it into 6th gear, it should resist but still roll. That tells me your clutch and drivetrain are good.

If you bled your brake system, it is possible you introduced air to the clutch master cylinder. If you google, there are some youtube videos on how to bleed the clutch master cyclinder.

Last, it is possible you have a mechanical, not hydraulic, issue. That could be with the throw-out bearing or fork that operates the throw-out bearing. Maybe even the cable that goes from the bottom of the shifter and operates the gear selection (mine slipped and I could not put the car into any gear lower than 4th). I cannot help you with this. When my cable slipped, I took it to a shop and it was a simple fix to put it back (plus they adjusted it so that the dreaded 1st to 2nd shift was much better). Good luck.

 

So when your car is parked with the engine running or not running, you can shift through all 6 gears and reverse fine?

And acts like the clutch pedal is stuck tonthe floor ?
or acts like there is no driveshaft connected ?

you say if it is in gear that it does not roll freely, if you are trying to move it when in gear, pop the hood and you should see the engine belt turning.
if in gear and tires are rolling, the engine will turn with a manual transmission

With, say drivers or passengers side in the air and rear tire off of the ground, since we have open differentials you can try to turn the rear tire, even in 6th gear you should bot be able to turn the tire, take out of gear, make sure the wheels on the opposite side are blocked so no chance of forward or rearward movement, take out of gear and see if spins freely or of there is any difference.

 

Ok so if my clutch is in yes it shift through all gears, if my clutch is not in then it won't shift. If it is running and I put car in gear and left off the clutch it keeps running. I bled the clutch and brake lines from the farthest to closest. When I push in the clutch not running and go through all the gears I can hear clanking sound. But I figured that's just it changing gears. And yes I have 4 jack stands I need to figure out how to get it up high enough to use my crawler.

 

Ok so with my car not running i put it 6th gear and the rolled forward and backwards. I really think its that cable that came loose I think...

 

Ok so i think I found the issue look at these pictures I know this can't be right...

 

I would think of the master cylinder, since you just bleed your brakes, but as long as the reservoir never went empty, it should be fine.
but even then, the clutch would stay engaged.
but one thing I am thinking something else, is the, with the car off and in gear, you can push it around and the engine does not turn.

 

So here is what i do know for sure. When I bleed the brakes the MC did not go empty as I had my helper pouring in little each time. When the car is in any gear it will roll back and forth very freely. The clutch too me now since bleeding the SC and brake lines actually feels better. I think what I am gonna do before ordering any parts. Like I almost did. Is get it up on jack stand as high and safely as I can. And drop the tranny out and just see what the heck is going on. I have not checked if the motor turns when I try to roll it back and forth. I just feel like it's some so simple or maybe as some have said maybe the pressure plate blew apart or SC is shot. But with 6 owners before me and 160,000 miles. A new clutch and flywheel, seals and SC can't hurt it lol