When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I suspect that some people here do not understand the meaning of the numbers in multi grade oils. Google the meaning of the numbers and understanding the numbers might lead to a change in the oil grade selected.
Right on, I'm totally with you. Here's what I use and it's the best buy on earth:
walmart.com/ip/Castrol-EDGE-5W-40-Advanced-Full-Synthetic-Motor-Oil-5-QT/145736795
Is need to change engine oil in my car in next week. Now the engine is filled with Shell Helix Ultra 1 5W40. I intend to switch into 0W40 again (according to M-B specification: 229.3 and 229.5). It will be Motul 8100 X-max 0W40. What do you fink about switch from 5W40 to 0W40? And about the engine oil type 8100 X-max manufactured by Motul?
from wiki: The number before the 'W' is the 'cold' viscosity rating of the oil, and the number after the 'W' is the 'hot' viscosity rating. So a 5W40 oil is one that behaves like a 5-rated single grade oil when cold, but doesn't thin any more than a 40-rated single grade oil when hot.
then see post 5. i ended up using pennzoil euro platinum. from the study mentioned at the post, pennzoil does better than mobil. and i think choosing 0 or 5 is not critical after all.
depends mostly of the temps where you are, the availability and offers. what am using is this:
Is need to change engine oil in my car in next week. Now the engine is filled with Shell Helix Ultra 1 5W40.
1) I intend to switch into 0W40 again (according to M-B specification: 229.3 and 229.5). 2) It will be Motul 8100 X-max 0W40.
2) What do you fink about switch from 5W40 to 0W40? A
1) Shell Helix Ultra 5W40 is on 229.3, I don't see Motul 8100 on there - how is that "changing according to M-B specification...."? (Altho I suspect that oil is fine, many oils not on 229.3 / .5 are fine.)
2) Depends on where you live (the climate) and how you drive the car.
With the 0 weight oils, your operating-temperature oil pressures will be around 3 to 5 pounds. That's way too 'light' for my comfort level. 5W40 will raise idling pressures at operating temperature to 10 to 15 pounds.
Pressures at 3000 rpm will go from around 20-25 pounds (0W40) to 40-50 pounds (5W40). That makes me way more comfortable.
A switch to 5W50 will give a less-impressive lift to pressures, but in a COLD engine, will mean idle pressures over my gauge's top end of 100 pounds - that bothers me. I did use 5W50 back when I was putting so many miles on the car that I was doing 2 or 3 changes a year - AND driving the car hard (wide open throttle acceleration, pressing to the red line on the tach, etc.); those days are essentially over.
I preach 229.3 and 229.5 but I no longer preach that ONLY those oils are OK. I instead look at the recommendations and draw conclusions about what MB engineers are saying 'between the lines'. And if you look, you will see, they emphasize 5W40 for most users. 229.3, back in 2009, emphasized 0W40. The trend here is to higher viscosity. One thing does not change: Full Synthetic is what you want. That leads me to this conclusion: For most of us, 5W40 full synthetic is what you want; buy the brand you like, if it is not on 229.3/.5 you void the warranty - but that warranty expired years ago, so who cares?
I already did, Phil. In 2010. The thread is still here, somewhere.
I've had a pressure gauge on all three Crossfires. Again, that is why I have an opinion, I don't just READ about this stuff, I observe directly. I have one on my Ranger as well - the fact that there are no pressure gauges on cars these days makes me irritable.
In fact, I had an oil pressure gauge AND oil temperature gauge on my 25HP, two cylinder lawn mower. (Also had an hour meter on it.)
1) Shell Helix Ultra 5W40 is on 229.3, I don't see Motul 8100 on there - how is that "changing according to M-B specification...."? (Altho I suspect that oil is fine, many oils not on 229.3 / .5 are fine.)
2) Depends on where you live (the climate) and how you drive the car.
With the 0 weight oils, your operating-temperature oil pressures will be around 3 to 5 pounds. That's way too 'light' for my comfort level. 5W40 will raise idling pressures at operating temperature to 10 to 15 pounds.
Pressures at 3000 rpm will go from around 20-25 pounds (0W40) to 40-50 pounds (5W40). That makes me way more comfortable.
A switch to 5W50 will give a less-impressive lift to pressures, but in a COLD engine, will mean idle pressures over my gauge's top end of 100 pounds - that bothers me. I did use 5W50 back when I was putting so many miles on the car that I was doing 2 or 3 changes a year - AND driving the car hard (wide open throttle acceleration, pressing to the red line on the tach, etc.); those days are essentially over.
I preach 229.3 and 229.5 but I no longer preach that ONLY those oils are OK. I instead look at the recommendations and draw conclusions about what MB engineers are saying 'between the lines'. And if you look, you will see, they emphasize 5W40 for most users. 229.3, back in 2009, emphasized 0W40. The trend here is to higher viscosity. One thing does not change: Full Synthetic is what you want. That leads me to this conclusion: For most of us, 5W40 full synthetic is what you want; buy the brand you like, if it is not on 229.3/.5 you void the warranty - but that warranty expired years ago, so who cares?
So PizzaBox, I mean PizzaDelivery, I mean Free Pizza, oh the hell with it! Which oil do you use? I'm willing to go with it. 😉
from post 30:
about having an oil pressure gauge, you said that you posted before:
"The thread is still here, somewhere. I've had a pressure gauge on all three Crossfires."
i couldnt find it, neither is in 180 repairs list.
could you find it please?
we will benefit from this. i would like to have it installed, and i think other would too.
in the meantime i found this: https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...ure-gauge.html
which brings us to this: https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...e-project.html
both very well detailed. still would like to see your approach too.
Last edited by phil alvirez; May 4, 2020 at 07:13 AM.
Thank you, pizzaguy for detailed explanation. I think about Motul 8100 X-max 0W40 according to M-B 229.5 (not M-B 229.3 - my mistake). You have a right that M-B 229.3 not listed that type of Motul oil. My choose of the Motul oil is based on opinions of other X'fires Users.
For over 10 years I used Mobil 1 Rally Formula 5W50 in my Volvo's and Saab's turbocharged engines with good results. Engines always were absolutely clean inside.
But I used my Volvo and Saab cars very heavily with fast accelerations and braking. Now I am a bit afraid to use 5W50 oil in my X'fire: MY2005 (sold by dealer /used first time in 2007) and millage is 112500 miles. Fortunately, I have not any leaks of oil from engines and gear box.
I live in Central Europe near Baltic See shore so winter temperature are not low: 34F and higher and above 77F in summer. Current oil Shell Helix Ultra 1 5W40 seems to be appropriate: idle of engine is 685 rpm (187F coolant temp and 129F intake air temp).
According to your suggestions and information I will probably purchase Motul 8100 X-cess 5W40 (and new Mann HU718/5x filter, of course).
Re: oil: which brand?
I have one on my Ranger as well - the fact that there are no pressure gauges on cars these days makes me irritable.
