2004 Crossfire 6-Speed manual shift

Completed Items:

1. Installed new seat relay. Right seat ok but driver side won't go forward or backward.
2. Replaced license plate light fixtures with led fixture.
3. Replaced both air filters.
4. Straightened front grill of bends.
5. Aligned hood latch.
6. Serviced fluid levels and aired up all four tires.
7. Installed another used air pump in the trunk. Door locks now work.
8. Removed broken security module. Battery not discharging now.
9. Put new FOB case on key.
10. Replaced hatch struts
11. Moisture was in the drivers side head light. Ventilated light assembly.
12. Bled clutch and added new brake fluid.


To Be Done:
1. Fiberglass rusted trunk floor.
2. Discover which is bad, tranny syncros or shifter adjustment, replacement.
3. Brakes good but should be checked.
5. Check under side for squeaky left rear suspension.
6. Install new shifter assembly
6. Install new cabin filter.
7. Replace driver's wiper arm. 8/312/25: ordered new wiper arm
8. Make a new speaker grill for L/door
9. Repair rear hatch lock

 

Pretty sure I've found the leak in the driver's side headlight. The condensation has mostly evaporated and I can now see at the bottom of the lens. There is a seal at the bottom that appears to have slipped out leaving a gap for moisture to get in. Dang! Now I have to remove the headlight. Nothing is ever simple.

Installed a new FOB case and was really a nightmare! Someone had excessively glued the old case together. Took almost an hour just to get it open. For those who have never replaced a FOB case, be especially careful when opening the old case. Underneath the red lens is a very small black chip that communicates with the SKREEM. If you loose the chip the car will "NEVER" start! That can cost you about $400 for a new FOB. Not to mention having to remove the SKREEM behind the instrument cluster,

 

Check, U-tube, the easiest way is to remove the front bumper.

 

Yes I did that last night and I saw this one fellow that went in thru the grill and the side marker light. Probably that's the way I'll try it. Thanks

Glad you and M603A_driver are following with suggestions!

 

Good luck.

 

You're doing good!
Just take your time and if you get frustrated with something step away for a while. You will find if you take a break once in a while, things will become easier.
Best of luck!

 

Good thoughts! Seems there's not many more "major" problems to be concerned about (except the hidden ones). LoL. The rusted out trunk floor pan is going to be a major headache! Although I got the driver's seat half working it is in the right position for me. Won't go forward and backwards. As far as the body goes the right front bumper cover has a 3" tear where it mates at the corner of the fender. Someone had tried to repair it with Bondo Filler. The interior is in super good condition with a great AC and radio. I found that I can start out in second gear, when found, to drive around but that's no fun. When the tranny is replaced I'll bet I will be getting a speeding ticket. I'd like to trade all three of my Xfires for one nice SRT. My small yard is filling up with too many cars.

Maybe today I can get it up on ramps and look at the underside.

 

if ya need a spare white spoiler I have one for 50 bucks + shipping Our white crosssfire was stolen , never had the chance to replace it

 

Did a forum search and couldn't find anything specific for a hatch lock returning after opening. When I squeeze the lock latch to open it sticks and does not return. I find that I have to take two fingers and pull the lock handle back to the normal state. It unlocks normally with the FOB. Haven't removed the lock yet but was wondering if anyone else has had this issue and it's correction?

 

Couldn't find a driver's speaker grill on eBad so I decided to make one. I'd guess the only reason right sides grill are available is because the driver's side gets the most use getting in and out and putting one's foot into it. I ordered some black aluminum grill material and chrome door edge trim to make a DIY speaker grill. If it turns out nice I'l post pics and offer to make one for free if your in need. I'll have lots of material left over.

 

Have you tried using some white lithium lube spray? You can use the small tube to squirt in a small amount on the latch components. That might make return when you release it.

 

Almost wasted efforts today. Used ramps and crawled under the car to check out shifter bushings. To my regret they are on top of the tranny, in the middle of the tunnel, and can't be seen. Inspected the steering drag linkage and discovered the ball joint connected to the idler arm is bad. The rest of the drag link is good. Don't know if the ball joint is replaceable or not. It's not super bad but will have to be dealt with in a while. Hope I won't have to buy a whole new steering drag linkage. Underside looks good with no leaks.
UPDATE @ 11:20PM- No parts found for the knuckles on steering drag linkage. (Searched Amazoo and eBad.)

 

Take a look at this. Maybe this is what you're looking for: LINK - Tie rod ends

 

Thanks but the tie rod ends are fine. Wanting a knuckle, aka ball joint, not to be confused with upper and lower control arm ball joints. The knuckle joins the idler arm to the drag link. It is part of the drag link main center bar.

 

Take a look here: https://www.autohausaz.com/catalog?v...20&c=16&page=1
and here: https://www.autohausaz.com/catalog?v...20&c=15&page=1

 

Did a clutch bleed today and discovered "nasty" brake fluid along with air and possibly water contamination. The clutch does work better but gonna have to do a bleed of the brake/clutch master cylinder. Power bleed would be best option. Bought some brake fluid and will syphon out the master cylinder and add new fluid before bleeding the two systems. Maybe I'll work on the hatch lock later this afternoon. My bones are tired from the last two days of crawling around under the car! LoL

UPDATE ON CLUTCH: Vacuum sucked old fluid from the reservoir and added fresh fluid. Wow what a difference it made. The clutch now works very well with smooth operation. When I get a chance I'll bleed the brakes and clutch slave again.

 

I'll keep you in mind. Nothing wrong with mine other than someone painted it over time and the paint is chalky. Any paint issues with yours?

 

Being the brake clutch share the same reservoir I'll have to bleed all four wheel cylinders to get that old contaminated fluid out of the system. On a lighter note, I went out to MacDill AFB, Auto Hobby Shop to see what's up with using the facility. I haven't used the facility in 30 years and they really have made some great improvements. Several hydraulic lifts and new tools to loan for a for $15 an hour. Sooooo being I don't want to flop around on my back to install my new/used 6-speed shifter guess I'll be out there next week.
Just hoping the shifter or tranny bushings are the problem when shifting 1st to 2nd gear. "No grinding," just hard time finding 2nd gear slot. "If" shifting to 2nd gear, and lifting the shifter slightly upward, I can usually find 2nd gear. That's why I'm feeling it's tranny bushings or worn out shifter with 175k on it.

 

Wow $15 an hour!!! Cheapest around me is $38 an hour.

 

THIS IS WHAT I POSTED OVER IN THE TECHNICAL FORUM .

​​​​​​I did a search and couldn't find any "how to's" on removing the 6-speed manual shift assembly. Also checked YouBoob and nothing. Does "anyone have any experience" in doing this task?" Next week I'm gonna put in new/used shifter and check all the bushings for wear. Car has 175k on her and hard to find 2nd gear slot from 1st gear. "No grinding" but just sloppy. If I lift slightly on the stick I can usually / sometimes find 2nd gear slot. Any help would "really" be appreciated! I have concerns about the exhaust and motor mounts. I'm certainly not excited if "maybe" having to drop the tranny to do this work!