Trunk Lid Jammed
I can't see anything else like it in any pictures I have seen of the mechanism. I tried this morning and it simply will not budge, so I either have the wrong cable or it takes a lot of force to pull the pin to release the trunk.
I will try again later today and take pictures of what I am up against. I love the car, but this is just really pi%s**g me off at this point.
If I can't get it open I may make someone on this forum a REALLY good deal on a car.
I will try again later today and take pictures of what I am up against. I love the car, but this is just really pi%s**g me off at this point.
If I can't get it open I may make someone on this forum a REALLY good deal on a car.
Ok, trunk is opened. Now the fun part....
The top will not go down. I see nothing physically wrong with any of the switches. Windows go down when you first open the top, but then nothing else happens. The button just blinks. No sound, nothing.
Is there a sensor I should check first? I believe there are three of them that operate the top, and I am sure one of them is bad (and yes fuses are OK).
The top will not go down. I see nothing physically wrong with any of the switches. Windows go down when you first open the top, but then nothing else happens. The button just blinks. No sound, nothing.
Is there a sensor I should check first? I believe there are three of them that operate the top, and I am sure one of them is bad (and yes fuses are OK).
1. divider switch ( drivers side in trunk where the divider bar enters the socket )
2. top released switch ( in the top frame at the passenger's right ear )
3. trunk latched switch ( integral to the latch assembly, good luck with that one ! )
2. top released switch ( in the top frame at the passenger's right ear )
3. trunk latched switch ( integral to the latch assembly, good luck with that one ! )
The divider is the panel in the trunk that you flip down before you lower the top ( less trunk space ),
or store in the up position against the forward panel when the top is up ( more trunk space )
or store in the up position against the forward panel when the top is up ( more trunk space )
And OBSERVE how the rod goes into the cavity onthe left (drivers) side - the divider has to sit VERTICAL not leaning forward to push that switch closed.
OK, my roadsters trunk will not open and the handle is in floppy mode. From what I read in this thread that means the pneumatic lock is engaged. I started the drop top sequence far enough to reach in the trunk and pull the emergency trunk handle which broke. Now thinking about it, that would have not worked anyway.
So my question, is there a way to reset the pneumatic top system to release the trunk lock?
Thanks for your thoughts,
Michael
So my question, is there a way to reset the pneumatic top system to release the trunk lock?
Thanks for your thoughts,
Michael
It is most likely the electric solenoid lock controlled by the top motor, not the pneumatic one.
pizzaguy traveled this road, perhaps he'll chime in with some sage advice if he sees this thread.
Probably best to PM/IM him too.
pizzaguy traveled this road, perhaps he'll chime in with some sage advice if he sees this thread.
Probably best to PM/IM him too.
OK, my roadsters trunk will not open and the handle is in floppy mode. From what I read in this thread that means the pneumatic lock is engaged. I started the drop top sequence far enough to reach in the trunk and pull the emergency trunk handle which broke. Now thinking about it, that would have not worked anyway.
So my question, is there a way to reset the pneumatic top system to release the trunk lock?
Thanks for your thoughts,
Michael
So my question, is there a way to reset the pneumatic top system to release the trunk lock?
Thanks for your thoughts,
Michael
If this is your problem, remove only the black actuator tip from the solenoid. It communicates with the car's computer. Removing it completely will cause the computer to assume there is a problem with the trunk lid position and not allow the top to go up or down. With the actuator tip removed the solenoid can't reach the locking pawl so it can't lock the mechanism. The solenoid thinks it's doing it's job and tells the computer all is OK back here. You just have to remember to never attempt to open or leave the trunk lid open when raising or lowering the top because this German engineered safeguard won't be there any more.
Last edited by Mackel; May 10, 2016 at 03:26 PM. Reason: additional remark
Ok, got it open via the license plate light hole. It was the electronic lock that was jammed and I released it with a screwdriver, levering to the right. Then I was able to use the screwdriver via the hole to lift the metal spring loaded latch up to open the trunk. Next I found a piece of the trunk latch linkage is broken, I am calling that latch pivot. Pictures are attached.
So it looks like I am looking for a roadster trunk latch assembly. Any ideas where I could procure one? Does the coupe and the roadster share the same latch assembly???
Also the photos are marked up to help identify how to get the license plate light out and the piece that is broken on my latch.
Thanks,
Michael
So it looks like I am looking for a roadster trunk latch assembly. Any ideas where I could procure one? Does the coupe and the roadster share the same latch assembly???
Also the photos are marked up to help identify how to get the license plate light out and the piece that is broken on my latch.
Thanks,
Michael
Last edited by leaddog2015; May 12, 2016 at 10:55 PM.
If the broken piece looks like this black tip, Ala_Xfire is correct, just roll on, Big Mama.
IMG_6830sm.jpg
IMG_6830sm.jpg
It looks to me (in your photos) that you have no "latch thingy" on the end of your electric lock - it fell off or broke. So, once you throw the loose piece away, you are good to go IF IF IF that is what you found in there
Now, confirm that the latch pivot for the emergency trunk release is intact, I know it opened for you, but it may have broken as it opened.
I wish I could make out more in your photos, but there is nothing like BEING there....
Last edited by pizzaguy; May 19, 2016 at 10:03 PM.
I believe so, go back to post 73 and look at the last photo in that post. LAST PHOTO.
It looks to me (in your photos) that you have no "latch thingy" on the end of your electric lock - it fell off or broke. So, once you throw the loose piece away, you are good to go IF IF IF that is what you found in there
Now, confirm that the latch pivot for the emergency trunk release is intact, I know it opened for you, but it may have broken as it opened.
I wish I could make out more in your photos, but there is nothing like BEING there....
It looks to me (in your photos) that you have no "latch thingy" on the end of your electric lock - it fell off or broke. So, once you throw the loose piece away, you are good to go IF IF IF that is what you found in there
Now, confirm that the latch pivot for the emergency trunk release is intact, I know it opened for you, but it may have broken as it opened.
I wish I could make out more in your photos, but there is nothing like BEING there....
It is a bit of a pain but you can do it. Been there done it.
With the light housing out you can see the locking mechanism. Look for the electric lock plunger (circled in red) and use a screwdriver to move it to the right. This will release the electric lock. Then use the screwdriver to actuate the trunk latch be pushing the sliver lever down. You can spot the latch left of the electric lock.
Good luck! Leaddog
With the light housing out you can see the locking mechanism. Look for the electric lock plunger (circled in red) and use a screwdriver to move it to the right. This will release the electric lock. Then use the screwdriver to actuate the trunk latch be pushing the sliver lever down. You can spot the latch left of the electric lock.
Good luck! Leaddog


